S2 rst problems, help?
Hello.
I am writing from finland, sorry my bad english
I have 87 rst, and my problem is that when accelerating 0.1 boost even car stops going, and bopping (misfire) in the exhaust.
I have tried other motorcraft ignition box and air tempeature sensor.
The car runs about normally when i limit the pressure that goes in ignition unit.
I think car runs lean, turbo is very hot and red when driven even little at boost 0.5 bar.

That filter and bleeder are needed it even works at 0.5 boost and half gas it misfire, but full throttle and lot of revs it works.
I think car should work normally without any limit of pressure in ignition unit?
The car has some modifications:
Dumpvalve
Larger intercooler
Kent cams cvh 31 camshaft
-34 actuator
I post some pictures of engine bay, help needed
i have not try new spark plugs and spark wires
images :
http://personal.inet.fi/private/antt...rst/huolto.htm
I am writing from finland, sorry my bad english
I have 87 rst, and my problem is that when accelerating 0.1 boost even car stops going, and bopping (misfire) in the exhaust.
I have tried other motorcraft ignition box and air tempeature sensor.
The car runs about normally when i limit the pressure that goes in ignition unit.
I think car runs lean, turbo is very hot and red when driven even little at boost 0.5 bar.

That filter and bleeder are needed it even works at 0.5 boost and half gas it misfire, but full throttle and lot of revs it works.
I think car should work normally without any limit of pressure in ignition unit?
The car has some modifications:
Dumpvalve
Larger intercooler
Kent cams cvh 31 camshaft
-34 actuator
I post some pictures of engine bay, help needed
i have not try new spark plugs and spark wires
images :
http://personal.inet.fi/private/antt...rst/huolto.htm
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From: Exeter, Devon
What is the image of above? It looks like a bleed valve placed in the ECU vaccum pipe?
Seen this done before, because it alters the retard/advance on the timing - making it go better (for a short while)! It shouldn't need it to run ok though.
- Umm.. why? It should run ok without a bleed valve there - enless ECU is buggered? Might be the vaccum sensor in the ECU is not working right - therefore adjusting the timing and also thinking it is overboosting even at only 0.1bar - hence the banging and popping.
Seen this done before, because it alters the retard/advance on the timing - making it go better (for a short while)! It shouldn't need it to run ok though.
That filter and bleeder are needed
Originally Posted by Exeter J
What is the image of above? It looks like a bleed valve placed in the ECU vaccum pipe?
Seen this done before, because it alters the retard/advance on the timing - making it go better (for a short while)! It shouldn't need it to run ok though.
- Umm.. why? It should run ok without a bleed valve there - enless ECU is buggered? Might be the vaccum sensor in the ECU is not working right - therefore adjusting the timing and also thinking it is overboosting even at only 0.1bar - hence the banging and popping.
Seen this done before, because it alters the retard/advance on the timing - making it go better (for a short while)! It shouldn't need it to run ok though.
That filter and bleeder are needed
Yep, it should work up to 0.7 bar without any bleeders or stuff in the pipe what goes in the ecu.
And i have tried another ecu, what is from another rs turbo that goes well and works ok.
But problems start at 0.1 bar, and it bopping and not working at all.
I started car at night -10 and the coldstart injector is on ( i think), the car runs bit better, i think. couple of kilometres, but then worse.
Something problems with fuel distributor? or what ever mfi system..?
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