AP Racing clutch plate ~ CP5351-16 ~ What power
#41
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Originally Posted by Christian and Beccy
Originally Posted by dexterc
Originally Posted by Christian and Beccy
Originally Posted by notSteveS2
its how eva i choose to write it Guvnor...
not gonna kill off society!
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Originally Posted by safechav
Originally Posted by Christian and Beccy
Originally Posted by safechav
Christian and Beccy: sorry to be a C*NT but whatever is actually one word
Just looking at the pictures again, does that clutch actually fit into a standard box fuckin huuuuaaaagggggeeeeee
but i dont think it was easy mate!
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Originally Posted by Christian and Beccy
Originally Posted by dexterc
Originally Posted by Christian and Beccy
Originally Posted by notSteveS2
its how eva i choose to write it Guvnor...
#46
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Originally Posted by notSteveS2
Originally Posted by safechav
Originally Posted by Christian and Beccy
Originally Posted by safechav
Christian and Beccy: sorry to be a C*NT but whatever is actually one word
Just looking at the pictures again, does that clutch actually fit into a standard box fuckin huuuuaaaagggggeeeeee
but i dont think it was easy mate!
#49
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mate i cudnt really care less as thats me OLD car... now sold..
wot i was askin for was an explanation y...
i like to learn matey...
thought thats the idea of Car forums?
wot i was askin for was an explanation y...
i like to learn matey...
thought thats the idea of Car forums?
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Originally Posted by notSteveS2
mate i cudnt really care less as thats me OLD car... now sold..
wot i was askin for was an explanation y...
i like to learn matey...
thought thats the idea of Car forums?
wot i was askin for was an explanation y...
i like to learn matey...
thought thats the idea of Car forums?
#53
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Originally Posted by notSteveS2
just found a very badcopy of it a mad b4 i sold car for my own history like....
it makes 242ftlb at 3750.... slowly drops to 230ftlb till 4250 then carries on slowly droppin down to 190ftlb at 5250
sorry havent got scanner or digi cam here matey
that sound like 1of wot u sed was happenin???
it makes 242ftlb at 3750.... slowly drops to 230ftlb till 4250 then carries on slowly droppin down to 190ftlb at 5250
sorry havent got scanner or digi cam here matey
that sound like 1of wot u sed was happenin???
Yes - u either have a massive boost spike in the middle - or more likely - wheel spin on the rollers as she came on boost.
#54
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K-Jet RST's running primative methods of boost control often suffer boost spikes. So, for example, it might hit 25psi, then drop almost immediately to a lower figure. This shows as an over-inflated Torque spike on an RR graph.
It also results in wheelspin on the rollers and broken gearboxes on the road. It will also drastically shorten the life of the clutch.
For example. Take my old spec, well one of them. Low comp bottom end, Stage 3 T3, standard head, CVH34 cam etc. I used to run lots of boost, like 26-28psi spike. It made 290lb/ft, then dropped like a stone straight after. I will try and find a graph of that. I'm sure I have one.
Once I ported the head and fitted bigger vavles, the car immediately lost Torque. Down to around 250lb/ft, but less of a spike and holding onto it much better. The result was a car that was kinder to the transmission and FAR nicer to drive.
Now I am back up to 290lb/ft, but with the same smoother characteristics, so it's hard on the transmission again, because the clutches just aren't designed to deal with this amount of Torque.
Turboboss' Twin Plate set-up is what I would like to fit to mine, but, by taking out a weak-link, I worry about the next link in the chain. This will be Drive-shafts, Gears etc. So, the moral is guys, don't consider these kinds of upgrades unless you can afford to look at the whole bigger picture.
Also, contrary to what I said above, the head-porting reference was given as an example, don't assume that head porting is the answer to everyone's problems. I still believe that a standard'ish head is the way forward until at least 220bhp.
Hope this helps.
It also results in wheelspin on the rollers and broken gearboxes on the road. It will also drastically shorten the life of the clutch.
For example. Take my old spec, well one of them. Low comp bottom end, Stage 3 T3, standard head, CVH34 cam etc. I used to run lots of boost, like 26-28psi spike. It made 290lb/ft, then dropped like a stone straight after. I will try and find a graph of that. I'm sure I have one.
Once I ported the head and fitted bigger vavles, the car immediately lost Torque. Down to around 250lb/ft, but less of a spike and holding onto it much better. The result was a car that was kinder to the transmission and FAR nicer to drive.
Now I am back up to 290lb/ft, but with the same smoother characteristics, so it's hard on the transmission again, because the clutches just aren't designed to deal with this amount of Torque.
Turboboss' Twin Plate set-up is what I would like to fit to mine, but, by taking out a weak-link, I worry about the next link in the chain. This will be Drive-shafts, Gears etc. So, the moral is guys, don't consider these kinds of upgrades unless you can afford to look at the whole bigger picture.
Also, contrary to what I said above, the head-porting reference was given as an example, don't assume that head porting is the answer to everyone's problems. I still believe that a standard'ish head is the way forward until at least 220bhp.
Hope this helps.
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thaxn for info matey... as i sed im keen to learn...
my current RST is weber managed by jano...
and also has standard head apart from the CVH 35... it made a lovely curve apart from 1 little bit that needs to b tweaked...
215bhp with 218 torque at 16 psi...
i got it at 18psi now so i guess bout 220bhp with bout 225ftlb and it drives lovely...
but box cudnt deal with it as it was like 80k old already!
my current RST is weber managed by jano...
and also has standard head apart from the CVH 35... it made a lovely curve apart from 1 little bit that needs to b tweaked...
215bhp with 218 torque at 16 psi...
i got it at 18psi now so i guess bout 220bhp with bout 225ftlb and it drives lovely...
but box cudnt deal with it as it was like 80k old already!
#56
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Originally Posted by Christian and Beccy
Originally Posted by Rick
providing u dont get slip, the organic will last the longest. 1600's dont put out 300lb+ torque.
The durability of a clutch depends totally on what kind of driving you do. If you fit an Organic and never really launch it and do a bit of driving in traffic, then that will last well. However, start launching it and it will soon suffer.
On the flip side of that coin, if you drive a Paddle clutch in traffic alot and give it alot of stop-starts, that will suffer. A Paddle really needs to be on or off, hence the need for a heavy cover pressure plate.
So it's hard to generalise.
Turboboss, that setup looks awesome. I really would like something like that. What does it drive like? Only thing that worries me with such a good clutch is whether it will put extra strain on the gearbox.
the clutch Initially was a nightmare to fit we unearth many problems but if zoo motorsport was to fit one to another rs turbo, it would be a straight forward job, like fitting a normal clutch my car was the test bed so all the problems have been remedied , the flywheel has to be machined back to gain clearance,also the cover been machined... we had to change the master cylinder to increase travel...to begin with the car was terrible to the pedal was so heavy for a hydraulic system and you could not slip the clutch at all, the amount of times i stalled became a joke i just could not live with it, then evenually the car would not go in gear and the engine kept on stalling with the clutch pedal was pressed.. i removed the gearbox last week to find the release bearing that ap racing supplied had Disintegrated breaking part of the Diaphragm.. brom @ zoo modified a cosworth release bearing and machined the bearing to fit an rs turbo carrier.... now the car is more drivable you can actually slip the clutch a bit.. next thing for me are my driveshafts which on hard launches keep on breaking but they are about the only thing left which are standard uprated driveshafts will be next on my list... as an everyday car the twin plate paddle is not suited and best left for racing purposes cost your looking @ around £1200 this includes a hydraulic clutch which is a must because even with the hydraulic clutch the pedal is awfully heavy
#57
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Has anyone ever looked at fitting a larger dia clutch i.e. a Focus RS AP clutch (240mm)?
What would be involved with flywheel mods etc?
I'm sure there is a bit more space on the flywheel for a slightly larger clutch
What would be involved with flywheel mods etc?
I'm sure there is a bit more space on the flywheel for a slightly larger clutch
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Originally Posted by zvhturbo
Has anyone ever looked at fitting a larger dia clutch i.e. a Focus RS AP clutch (240mm)?
What would be involved with flywheel mods etc?
I'm sure there is a bit more space on the flywheel for a slightly larger clutch
What would be involved with flywheel mods etc?
I'm sure there is a bit more space on the flywheel for a slightly larger clutch
#60
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Sean: How did you get home on Sunday in the end, recovery?
and what gearbox is fitted to your car at the mo?
Cheers
Paul
and what gearbox is fitted to your car at the mo?
Cheers
Paul
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Originally Posted by turbotrev
Sean: How did you get home on Sunday in the end, recovery?
and what gearbox is fitted to your car at the mo?
Cheers
Paul
and what gearbox is fitted to your car at the mo?
Cheers
Paul
got home around nine i have to get a set of uprated driveshafts but i am looking @ £500 i am using a cts stage two plus
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