ive just got my engine in after being rebuilt and tried to strike it up today but it wouldn't fire. after closer inspection we found the metering head wasn't sending fuel to the injectors. we cracked the other connections to the metering head (cold start valve, filter outlet etc) and we got fuel. the sensor plate feels a bit flimsy but im not sure what tension should be on it

im thinking the plunger maybe ceased ??

any ideas ??

 

you will only get fuel up to the injectors if you pusn down gently on the flap in the metering unit as its being cranked over

 

tried that, no joy

when we turned the engine over, the plate moved down just over a inch. is that about right?

 

is anyone around the lincs area with a spare metering head i could try?

 

proberly not the metering head mate if you have fuel at everything but the injectors
i had the same problem and i tried 4 metering heads
if you get it all primed up and undo the sensor of side of metering head make shore there is fuel there first as that was my problem i had fuel there but it was not letting it through that is the last route the fuel goes through before it goes to the injectors if you have fuel
it will be the wirein to the switch and it will be keeping shut hence no fuel

 

thanks for that, i went out and took the sensor on the right hand side of the metering head and there was no fuel there, so i got the pump going to bleed it through and eventually got fuel there. reconnected it back up and tried starting it and no joy again...cracked the 4 injector lines on the metering head and bone dry

did you mean the sensor on the left hand side ??

 

then it is definatly wirein problem somewhere down the line mate as the sensor opens up a sort of valve and lets fuel through to the injectors

 

ur confused somewhere. all sensors and electrics are for secondry fuelling correction.

Metering flap should not move an inch on cranking - plunger could well be gunked up. Disconnect both plugs from metering head. Take an injector out. Depress the flap, and crank. If no fuel - then its metering head prob. Providing of course u have fuel pressure after the filter.

 

think youl find that when cranking over and giving it throttle the plunger does move and flap up and down

 

yes, it will do, but not an inch. that suggests that the head isn't pressurised, and it is easy for the flap to compress it.

 

yea fair enough not a inch mate but if he is crankin it over on his own i no where hes comin from with saying it moves a inch as i was on my own when i had the same problem and it looks like it is moving that much

 

if it helps, i had a second person there to watch the flap as i was cranking it and he said it was about a inch

as for the wiring to the sensor, there is a 12v signal to the sensor when the ignitions on..

ill try that rick

 

if you got someone to help you turn car over but dont tuch throttle and get other person to push flap open only by a couple of mm take one of the injector banjos out and c if you have fuel

 

we did that too

i had a thought maybe the plunger inside the metering head may have got stuck seeing as it had been stood in the garage for a while but i just took it to pieces and it seems fine but i doused it in wd40 anyway.

im going to put it back together now and see if its helped

 

well no joy again but.....

just took the fuel return to tank pipe off the fuel pressure regulator and nothing came out when the pump was going

knackered fuel pump, could this be my problem ?? it does sound a bit rough

if the pressure isn't good enought to open the fuel pressure actuator on the side of the metering head then i wont get fuel to the injectors ??

 

The Hydro Electric Pressure actuator is electronically controlled, you need the fuel pressure to exceed the pressure the injectors open at though.

 

ok, im going to go over all the wiring bit by bit and if i cant see anything then its a new pump

 

The KE system is notorious for air locks apparently, never had one myself though.

 

well new hope it seems...

we had the fuel line straight off the pump in a measuring jug and it didnt give anything near what it should in flowrate, not even half in fact, and it took a few secs for the dribble to appear, but it did give some pressure when i held my thumb over the line for a few seconds. we checked the fuel lines for airlocks, kinks etc...

so first thing is a new pump now as we have proved this one is not performing as it should, then if it cures the problem, bonus, but im not holding my breath

 

It may sound silly but is the pump wired in the correct phase? Not connected in reverse?

 

its deffo the right way round its one of the first few things we tried

 

Just checking Might be worthwhile buying a high pressure pump, you're bound to be modifying it soon

 

my metering head only needs the ingnition to be on to give fuel if you push down on the flap, no need to crank the engine on mine.

i had the same prob sime, but mine was an air lock, garage disconnectrd fuel lines to do some other work and called me in when it wudn start, we had fuel to the head an away from it,

but i removed some of the hoses and pissed about for a bit and had fuel comin out of it then, firm flap too

 

i got a brand new fuel pump today and its sorted the problem, got some pressure on the sensor plate, fuel out the injectors when i pressed the plate and what do you know..it started up fine

but the pumps sounding a bit rough...airlock still ?

 

Nah can't be an airlock if you've got pressure, don't worry about it they usually can be heard, unless if its making worrying noises get it changed.

 

it might just be too close to the floorpan and vibrating. ill lower it a bit more tomoz and see if that cures it

thanks for the help