Esc Cos Altenator voltage
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From: Mongsville, wiping Jimbo.'s spastic arse.
Esc Cos Altenator voltage
Voltage directly at the altenator is 13.5v
filtering through the car to battery.. then to ecu shows 13.3 - 13.4 volts
Im assuming the car could do with a new altenator?
best one to go for.. std esc cos 70 amp?
wouldnt mind a few extra ... id like to hold 14 volts in the car
cheers
filtering through the car to battery.. then to ecu shows 13.3 - 13.4 volts
Im assuming the car could do with a new altenator?
best one to go for.. std esc cos 70 amp?
wouldnt mind a few extra ... id like to hold 14 volts in the car
cheers
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From: Mongsville, wiping Jimbo.'s spastic arse.
Originally Posted by Karl
Dave, why are you not using the 90 amp Ford alternator?
If you want a better alternator then check out a Brise item, but be prepared to get your wallet out!
If you want a better alternator then check out a Brise item, but be prepared to get your wallet out!
Its a 90 amp one then Karl.. it hasnt been changed since factory
how do altenators die? do they just tend to burn out after a while?
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From: Lancaster, Lancs
You can usually have them overhauled Dave....Voltage Reg Changed...bearings check etc....by a decent auto-electrical place...we use Leyland Autos' up here but i'm not sure down south......the standard 4 x 4 cos item as Karl says is 90A....I have a good spare on the shelf if you need 1.....
Sometimes its just the voltage regulator that dies in them - the bushes in them wear out - its the easiest thing to change first & you can do it with the alternator still on the car. Take out the voltage reg & have a look at the bushes to see how worn they are!!! HTH! 
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Norris Motorsport
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From: Derbyshire
Loads of reasons to have alternator problems, worn bearings, worn brushes, faulty diode pack etc. In addition I recommend you rewire the alternator to battery wiring and generally make sure the entire vehicle wiring is perfect.
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From: Under the Missus ( . )( . )
Originally Posted by DaveEscos
Originally Posted by 3drstretch
You can also change the regulator to charge more than standard.
have you done this?
And yes i have done this and i charge at over 14v at most times.
Originally Posted by 3drstretch
Originally Posted by DaveEscos
Originally Posted by 3drstretch
You can also change the regulator to charge more than standard.
have you done this? And yes i have done this and i charge at over 14v at most times.come on!! spill the beans!!!!
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From: Mongsville, wiping Jimbo.'s spastic arse.
Originally Posted by 3drstretch
Originally Posted by DaveEscos
Originally Posted by 3drstretch
You can also change the regulator to charge more than standard.
have you done this? And yes i have done this and i charge at over 14v at most times.well pls share the knowledge then! [/b]
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From: Ramsgate, Kent Drives: E39 530D Touring
doesnt that cook things?
on my old XR3i the voltage reg packed up and basically it had unlimited voltage (higher the RPM, higher the voltage)
i cooked my stereo, about 15 headlight bulbs, and 2 car batteries with it like this. the car constantly smelt of rotten eggs (sulphur?) and it turned out to be the battery stinking as it cooked itself!
on my old XR3i the voltage reg packed up and basically it had unlimited voltage (higher the RPM, higher the voltage)
i cooked my stereo, about 15 headlight bulbs, and 2 car batteries with it like this. the car constantly smelt of rotten eggs (sulphur?) and it turned out to be the battery stinking as it cooked itself!
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From: Under the Missus ( . )( . )
The part you need is a CARGO 133993 reg that charges at 14.8v available at most good electrical outlets or me for £25 delivered.
I have done 3 of these and had no problems with cooked ecu's etc.
I would also change wiring from alternator to battery and all earth's off battery ie battery - to body battery - to engine.
I have done 3 of these and had no problems with cooked ecu's etc.
I would also change wiring from alternator to battery and all earth's off battery ie battery - to body battery - to engine.
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From: Mongsville, wiping Jimbo.'s spastic arse.
is it a direct remove and fit to the altenator?
http://eretric.com/view_product.php?product=IB356
if you have one.. Stretch, pls go and take a pic of your secs monitor.. showing your batt voltage on idle 
http://eretric.com/view_product.php?product=IB356
if you have one.. Stretch, pls go and take a pic of your secs monitor.. showing your batt voltage on idle
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From: Under the Missus ( . )( . )
Originally Posted by DaveEscos
is it a direct remove and fit to the altenator?
http://eretric.com/view_product.php?product=IB356
if you have one.. Stretch, pls go and take a pic of your secs monitor.. showing your batt voltage on idle
http://eretric.com/view_product.php?product=IB356
if you have one.. Stretch, pls go and take a pic of your secs monitor.. showing your batt voltage on idle
Would love to dave but car at bodyshop. 
Dave, you will probally call me a coont but I will give my opinion anyway
What is wrong with 13.4 volts at the ecu - Nothing IMO.
I agree if you had more than that previously then there may be
an alternator issue.
All ecus (even pectel) correct the injector time based on
battery voltage. 13.0 to 13.5 is the nominal volatge used as an industry
standard in voltage correction software in nearly every ecu ever made.
More voltage makes the injectors deliver more fuel slightly (to a limit)
and less voltage reduces the fueling but the software adjusts for this
automatically (to a point if set up correctly) so teh AFR should be correct
all of the time at all battery voltages.
BUT too much voltage will kill/reduce the life of the electronics
in the car (stereos/ecu bulbs etc).
Sort the wiring first then check the alternator..
What is wrong with 13.4 volts at the ecu - Nothing IMO.
I agree if you had more than that previously then there may be
an alternator issue.
All ecus (even pectel
) correct the injector time based on battery voltage. 13.0 to 13.5 is the nominal volatge used as an industry
standard in voltage correction software in nearly every ecu ever made.
More voltage makes the injectors deliver more fuel slightly (to a limit)
and less voltage reduces the fueling but the software adjusts for this
automatically (to a point if set up correctly) so teh AFR should be correct
all of the time at all battery voltages.
BUT too much voltage will kill/reduce the life of the electronics
in the car (stereos/ecu bulbs etc).
Sort the wiring first then check the alternator..
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