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Car Won't Start Mystery? Can anyone help!?!?!?!??

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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 04:31 PM
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Default Car Won't Start Mystery? Can anyone help!?!?!?!??

I have an Escort RS Turbo Cabriolet, Back in aug the engine blew up so i've spent the las few months getting new engine turbo etc. I put it all back together but it wouldn't start so I took it to a repuatble performance garage to get it set up and mot'd etc. I got it back with full MOT, and running but ... it still didnt start well from cold, the garage said i should press the flap down on the metering head slightly and sure enough this did make it start.

They said i should try changing the Cold Start Valve and the Thermo time switch which i have done made no difference. I fiddled with the metering head by pushing flap all the way down and next time i started it it was running on 3 cylinders ( I have now changed the metering head aswell but it doesn't start at all now. i also found out that the plugs on the back of the inlet manifold were on the wrong way round the Thermo Time switch and the Coolant temp sensor were the wrong way round according to the haynes manual (confused me because its supposed to be yellow and brown but ive got dark brown and light brown!)

Now doesnt start at all, can smell petrol, have checked still get spark? Mystery??? I have also changed over the fuel presure thing that has the screw underneath to alter the fueling from my old one, still no joy?

can anyone please help!!?????????????????
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 05:08 PM
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Hello mate

Firstly your plugs, the light brown is the yellow, they discolour and get covered in oil etc.

The yellow one is the collant temperature, brown is the thermo time switch. The coolant sensor is in the sandwich plate on the inlet manifold (the hardest to reach of them all).

The cold start valve is wank to be blunt. Most RS's start better without them, they tend to flood the engine, they only work while cranking from cold in any case, as soon as u let go of the key its stops. I'll put money on it not being that.

Check the basics, everything is plugged in and on the right things, theres also an earth wire for the ECU's which is very easy to miss off when connecting the battery and causes all sorts of problems!

Anything else that u can think of. If it started with your old metering head id get that back on so u can at least run it and find the fault!
If wont run your just guessing
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 06:19 PM
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compression? hasnt jus dropped the belt or anything? timing?
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 09:59 PM
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Timing is ok i think, i havent changed anything since it came back from the garage and it was fine when running and starting from hot, just when it gets cold. used to be able to depress the plate under the airfilter on the metering unit a little and it would start but not now with this new metering head ( the main reason i changed it was because after i took the co2 adjuster off and put it back on again and also depressend the paddle right down it was starting but only running on 3 cylinders so i figured i had knackered the metering unit or somthing?

it was always slow to start on my old engine and i had to play with the throttle but it wasnt that bad. the only things i havent changed now is the metering unit, fuel ecu, wiring loom and gearbox everything else got changed when i did the engine. I got a superchipped ecu and put it mad sure it was the same year as before ie hearts and diamonds. So im thinking somthing to do with the plugs at back of inlet? metering unit or fuel ecu? what do people recon?

Also the two plugs at the back of the inlet manifold one is definately light brown i've tried cleaning it and it is 100% light brown. i had the cols start valve off and tried switching plugs around and it squirts out with the light brown one on but not with the dark brown one?????? Im baffled???
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 09:09 PM
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I've switched it back to the original metering head, it turns over and it kicks sometimes if i press down on the flap slightly but does not run?

Also dont know if this is important the pipe from the inlet manifold to the oil breather filter wsa changed to a silicone one?
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 09:18 PM
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tried putting to plugs that you found the wrong way back to how they were before?
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 09:21 PM
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yes i have now returned the car i think to how it was when i got it back from the garage before i started trying to fix the starting problem.

I am going to check the injectors are ok, Im pretty sure its fueling because the spark plugs are wet after a lot of cranking?

Would knackered HT leads let it drive ok but not start too good?
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 09:35 PM
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would cause misfire when running

it would normally be more than 1 ht lead faulty for it not to start

did you check for spark on all 4 leads? i know you said you had spark b4
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 10:02 PM
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Yes have spark on all four leads, Ive also got one of those clear dizzys so i can see the rotor arm sparking aswell.

Thinking injectors??????

It's kickings slightly now but thats about all?
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 10:14 PM
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leads on the correct way? no it sounds silly, also you got a good battery on the car? thinking mayb weak spark?

tried a can of easy start? if it is the injectors this will aid the lack of fuel injected and might fire up?

to check to injectors remove the plugs and stuff tissue in each hole, crank a few times n then c which tissue is and isnt wet? save you removing the injectors. (not much help if you got a weak jet of fuel from the injector) tho
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 06:10 AM
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so its not just me then lol
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 07:47 PM
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still getting shot of it jay?
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 06:56 AM
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I have checked injectors and they are squirting.



I have had a look at spark plugs, not too sure bout the spark on them sometime white sometimes blue? They are only a few weeks old garage put them on? HT Leads?? Coil??? Is there any way i can check?
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 04:25 PM
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yeh you can do a resistance test on the ht leads and coil with a multimeter should be 30 000 ohms maximum per ht lead anymore and it will cause to much resistance to get a good spark

and the coil should be 4.5 to 5.0 ohms

shows you how to check them in the haynes manual mate
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 04:27 PM
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havent distrub the angle of the dizzy in any way?
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 04:59 PM
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I changed the HT leads and the spark plugs again and it starts and runs!!!! yipeeee! BUT ONLY on 3 CYLINDERS it would appear (

Any suggestions??
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 05:54 PM
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distributer cap? coil? spark plug gap?
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 06:05 PM
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yellowturboman: Am i right in thinking you came and bought a Gearbox off me?
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 08:27 PM
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No sorry m8 thats pretty much the one thing i haven't had to replace yet!
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 11:06 AM
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Thats it i'm taking a match to the petrol tank!
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 12:34 PM
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So now it starts but only on 3?

Mine does this but after like 1min it fires into 4 only does it when the cars been left for some time..
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Old Dec 31, 2005 | 12:47 AM
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We had a very similar problem and believe it or not it was the fuel pump!! The system i have been told requires really good pressure to work. Just a thought. good luck
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Old Dec 31, 2005 | 11:17 AM
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I take the oil filler cap off and i can smell petrol? is this normal or is there somthing wrong with the head?
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 03:07 PM
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I have tken it back to the garage to have a look at at it has been stripped down. One of the camshaft lobes was badly worn (although when i bought the engine the Kent Cam was suposed to be new). They have also replaced a couple of the rings as well as putting a group A headgasket on and an upragetd fuel pump.

This seems to have done the trick just got to pay for it now!!!
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 03:29 PM
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Its probably the oil u can smell, smells similar to petrol when hot. Or if you have flooded it u may smell petrol in the oil.

Let me guess, the lobe worn was for the inlet on number 4? Can't beat a CVH top end

Set you back much? At least its running now
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