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Whats needed to make a zetec rev to 8500rpm

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Old Oct 15, 2005 | 10:45 PM
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Default Whats needed to make a zetec rev to 8500rpm

just wondering what needs to be done to a zetec engine to safely rev it highly, to say 7500-8500rpm.

assuming its being fed enough air and fuel

ARP bolts in the bottom end
steel rods
all lightened and balanced with shot peened crank

is it a simple case of doing the above?
or is there more to it than this ?
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 08:52 AM
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Solid lifters?
You worried that Radders and I are going to kick your arse
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Cliff S1
Solid lifters?
You worried that Radders and I are going to kick your arse
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 09:38 AM
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think the rods stroke is a factor in the zetecs too i belive, dont quote me on that but sure its to do with th power band, as in why rev a car to 9k when the power is reached at 5500

think cams/headwork are also a factor
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 09:39 AM
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a honda v tec lol
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 09:51 AM
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If it will rev to 8k with the power still there you'll be topping 200mph well you nutter
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 09:52 AM
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the st170 and the puma 1.7 is VVT but what controls it

is it a ecu based thing or is it mechanical presure
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 10:49 AM
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PMSL Dave!!!!



Originally Posted by essexrsturbo
Originally Posted by Cliff S1
Solid lifters?
You worried that Radders and I are going to kick your arse
Why the


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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 10:55 AM
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rudey a little more info i think he wanted

may aswell reply 6k
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 10:57 AM
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gonna need a whopper of a turbo to still have power up at 7.5+

say goodbye to low down power
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 10:59 AM
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steve thats why i like the vvt idea

im sure that the length of the rods are important though
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by b19bal
Steve thats why i like the vvt idea
Wont make much difference.

Its the turbo size needed for top end flow that will give it bugger all low down, nothing else.
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Freddy_mercury_magic
PMSL Dave!!!!



Originally Posted by essexrsturbo
Originally Posted by Cliff S1
Solid lifters?
You worried that Radders and I are going to kick your arse
Why the


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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 11:06 AM
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 11:07 AM
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surely it would allow,it to be more drivable

more important though opinions on a breather idea needed
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by * Rudey *
Originally Posted by b19bal
rudey a little more info i think he wanted

may aswell reply 6k
ok 1 good tuner that ok for ya
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by b19bal
more important though opinions on a breather idea needed


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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 02:32 PM
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was just wondering really always nice to know more than you need to

yeah Dave, im shite'ing myself at the thought of you and radders going for my arse

will deffo have headwork and some form of non standard cam, but im unsure of turbo yet, i got a t34 but could fancy a t38. really just trying to get a few things sorted in my head cos i really dont know what spec i want yet
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 02:57 PM
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As well as the above sugestions you might want to look at inlet and outlet manifolds especialy if you want power peaking in the areas that your talking about. If done correctly LAG will be reduced creating greater drivability low down.

There is a point where the RST manifolds strangle the ability to make the power high up.

Good luck with your build

hth
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 03:15 PM
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im not using standard manifolds, will be tubular exhaust with turbo mounted over the gearbox. as for inlet im not sure yet, got a modified rover m16 but am tempted to ditch that n go for a custom one.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 08:05 AM
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any input from the dayshift workers?
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Red16
As for inlet im not sure yet, got a modified rover m16 but WILL to ditch that and go for a custom one.


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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 11:38 AM
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There are several elements that need to be addressed correctly here. One of them being you have to make sure the engine will consume the air just aswell as forcing it in with massive turbo's. If this isn't done properly with a correctly spec'ed engine you will be in the wonderful world of compressor surge which is a b!tch and the last thing you need. In essenence it's not just the wonderful bolt-on powder coated aftermarket inlet manifolds and fancy exhaust manifolds that will play the main role in achieving this. The actual engine spec and cylinder head is where you need to look at first and then look at whats the best way of putting the air in and out of the engine with inlets and exhaust manifolds etc. It will leave you out of pocket as you would of spent a shed load on a big turbo and perhaps custom exhaust manifold and ext wastegate depending on the spec of the turbo + the cost of doing what you should of done correctly in the first place again.

What sort of power are you looking to achieve? You don't nessesarly need to go maaaassive turbo to get good peak power and an engine that revs late. My old zetec turbo rev'ed upto 8500 rpm however on that setup I never went about 8200rpm for safety. My new engine on the other hand...... Lastly why do you want to rev to 8500rpm?

Thanks - Sunny.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 01:41 PM
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Yo Rudez - all is well at this end mate. Long time no speak. Vice versa....hope you and your ladies are well.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Freddy_mercury_magic
Originally Posted by Red16
As for inlet im not sure yet, got a modified rover m16 but WILL to ditch that and go for a custom one.


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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by sunny
There are several elements that need to be addressed correctly here. One of them being you have to make sure the engine will consume the air just aswell as forcing it in with massive turbo's. If this isn't done properly with a correctly spec'ed engine you will be in the wonderful world of compressor surge which is a b!tch and the last thing you need. In essenence it's not just the wonderful bolt-on powder coated aftermarket inlet manifolds and fancy exhaust manifolds that will play the main role in achieving this. The actual engine spec and cylinder head is where you need to look at first and then look at whats the best way of putting the air in and out of the engine with inlets and exhaust manifolds etc. It will leave you out of pocket as you would of spent a shed load on a big turbo and perhaps custom exhaust manifold and ext wastegate depending on the spec of the turbo + the cost of doing what you should of done correctly in the first place again.

What sort of power are you looking to achieve? You don't nessesarly need to go maaaassive turbo to get good peak power and an engine that revs late. My old zetec turbo rev'ed upto 8500 rpm however on that setup I never went about 8200rpm for safety. My new engine on the other hand...... Lastly why do you want to rev to 8500rpm?

Thanks - Sunny.
as ive said above its more of a case of just wondering whats involved really i probs wont have it revving that high but its always nice to know more than you need to i cant ever remember this kinda topic being discussed on here so thought i'd start a thread on it, to see what sort of things people have been doing to achieve this.

looking to achieve 400 bhp with similar torque as ball park figures, or somewhere there or there abouts presently i have a t34 but im tempted to change it for something else. other than the rover inlet which radders says i WILL be changing, nothing else of the engine has been purchased yet. so i have a blank canvass
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 03:16 PM
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If you fit a 400bhp, 400lb/ft engine to a 14+year old car, dont forget you will need a lot of other work done to the car, ie poss shell strength mods, proper brake setup, proper suspention kit, poss new bushes all round, and dont forget the biggest problem, the gear box.

As rudey says Ł7000 for your build, then gearbox of maybe Ł1100, etc.. you could easily spend Ł15000 on the upgrades.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 03:22 PM
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Tony - as with anything...if your going to do it 'do it properly'. ie a 300bhp CVH will need exactly the same if your going to do it properly.

Most people don't realise but a genuine 300bhp is a monster....but like I said a genuine 300bhp.

Rudez
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 03:54 PM
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Thats it Sunny, I think people sumtimes forget how old these cars are and a lot of components are ready to fail, things often over looked are, brake lines, servos, bushes, steering coloumes, alignment, rear arms, shell strength, electrics etc..

All imortant if your gonna put Ł5000+ into any old car. No point spending Ł10000 on your car and dodgy electrics causes a fire, or your fuel pump bracket has rusted off.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 03:57 PM
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Thats only half of it. Even if all of the standard items were brand new...if they're not up to the job there's no point skimming it as accidents are bound to happen and at these levels when they do.....more than often there could be more involved than just a few scratches....safety first.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 03:59 PM
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Any date yet for the new motor Sunny?
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 05:02 PM
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tonyk

have a read of the thread in my signature, my rs is being rebuilt, seam welded shell, 6 point cage, front and rear weld in strut braces, rose jointed suspension, cossie 4 pots, rear disc conversion, the car will be quite solid... honest

as said above i was curious as to what was involved, didnt say i was going to go for 8500rpm

thanks for the input tho
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 05:03 PM
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cheers Sunny n Rudey
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 01:33 PM
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2 years later... bump
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