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rear tie-bar setup

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Old Jun 21, 2005 | 01:04 PM
  #1  
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Default rear tie-bar setup

hi all,

im wondering, as rear toe-out creates oversteer(at least with rwd cars), does it help to fight understeer on FWD cars? i was thinking about adding a spacer/ring to the rear tie-bar of my rst in order to push the rear wishbone towards the rear and so increasing toe-out. any thought on this? does it help to have the backend of the car pushing outwards when turning in a corner?
how many spacers does the original setp have btw?

thx in advance guys!



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Old Jun 21, 2005 | 10:05 PM
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We do a fully adjustable one so you can play at going in and out until your happy
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Old Jun 22, 2005 | 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by NUTS RuS
We do a fully adjustable one so you can play at going in and out until your happy
Yes you do and the QUALITY is AWESOME


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Old Jun 22, 2005 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by NUTS RuS
We do a fully adjustable one so you can play at going in and out until your happy
have u got any more info/pics of your setup m8? is that the full rear wishbone setup or just the tie-bar?
whats your experience with just the tiebar having more toe-out?
cheers
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Old Jun 22, 2005 | 05:12 PM
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Old Jun 22, 2005 | 08:15 PM
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Fook me Tony that all looks trick as fook Wouldn't mind some of that, but maybe a bit overkill for my road going rs
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Old Jun 22, 2005 | 08:20 PM
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I did a bit of searching round on the internet about this as my S1's got adjustable rods on the rear. I managed to find an American site where the guy said that it did.
Not tried it yet, bit concerned about it wearing my tyres out. I intend to have a play next time I do a track day.

Colin.
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Old Jun 22, 2005 | 10:31 PM
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S1's do indeed have a threaded rear tie bar. These are still available from motor factors (as I chucked 3 brand new ones away about 12 months ago)

Trouble with just altering that bit is it also affects the rear castor if you go too far. The degrees altered by placing washers behind it cant really be accurate enough.

My rear toe out is measured down to 0ş 05' accuracy and as there are no rubber or poly bushes to give way on cornering it stays there exactly as set.

Adam remember you need to be running some rear coilovers to be able to fit this kit. But its designed in such a way that you just unbolt your old arm and tie bar and replace with the new. All the arms are protected in clear plastic sleeving to keep even the bufty boys happy.

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The rear arm (nearest camera) takes care of toe (without upsetting castor), the pair together take care of camber, and the tie bar sorts out any castor changes needed.

All the stuff is plated and powder coated (any colour) so it wont rust (unlike my early prototype one in that pic )

A "little" rear toe out will help cornering Arjan, but a camber change will do it more effectivly
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Old Jun 23, 2005 | 02:49 AM
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Originally Posted by adamS2RST
Fook me Tony that all looks trick as fook Wouldn't mind some of that, but maybe a bit overkill for my road going rs

You'll need coilovers mind


this is my lot.... Well for now.... LOL









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Old Jun 23, 2005 | 09:23 AM
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Adam remember you need to be running some rear coilovers to be able to fit this kit. But its designed in such a way that you just unbolt your old arm and tie bar and replace with the new. All the arms are protected in clear plastic sleeving to keep even the bufty boys happy.
I've been seriously thinking about some coilovers.... And what are you trying to say i'm a bufty?



Looks wicked Rad
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Old Jun 23, 2005 | 06:50 PM
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Errm yes, and the bit about easy direct fit was done for you as well
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Old Jun 23, 2005 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by NUTS RuS
S1's do indeed have a threaded rear tie bar. These are still available from motor factors (as I chucked 3 brand new ones away about 12 months ago)

Trouble with just altering that bit is it also affects the rear castor if you go too far. The degrees altered by placing washers behind it cant really be accurate enough.

My rear toe out is measured down to 0ş 05' accuracy and as there are no rubber or poly bushes to give way on cornering it stays there exactly as set.

The rear arm (nearest camera) takes care of toe (without upsetting castor), the pair together take care of camber, and the tie bar sorts out any castor changes needed.

All the stuff is plated and powder coated (any colour) so it wont rust (unlike my early prototype one in that pic )

A "little" rear toe out will help cornering Arjan, but a camber change will do it more effectivly
cheers m8,thats about what i wanted to know
your rear wishbone setup is definitely worth fitting,too bad i just fitted the hammerited standard wishbone
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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Arjan
too bad i just fitted the hammerited standard wishbone
I fitted 2 spanking new rear wish bones 8 months ago and I still took them off and fitted the MEF set up!
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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 10:35 PM
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[quote="NUTS RuS"]S1's do indeed have a threaded rear tie bar. These are still available from motor factors (as I chucked 3 brand new ones away about 12 months ago)

How can u set these up when fitted or where can these be set up as i no mine is way out as wheel sit funny
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 04:06 AM
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Any good 4 wheel alignment place should be able to do it for you jon
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by NUTS RuS
Any good 4 wheel alignment place should be able to do it for you jon
cheers
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 11:26 PM
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Any of you guys know as stronger bar without switchin to coilovers?
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 11:50 PM
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I used to run rose jointed rear wishbones before going full Gp A. This allowed rear camber settings to be changed but still kept use of the std strut and spring set up.
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