rear tie-bar setup
hi all,
im wondering, as rear toe-out creates oversteer(at least with rwd cars), does it help to fight understeer on FWD cars? i was thinking about adding a spacer/ring to the rear tie-bar of my rst in order to push the rear wishbone towards the rear and so increasing toe-out. any thought on this? does it help to have the backend of the car pushing outwards when turning in a corner?
how many spacers does the original setp have btw?
thx in advance guys!
im wondering, as rear toe-out creates oversteer(at least with rwd cars), does it help to fight understeer on FWD cars? i was thinking about adding a spacer/ring to the rear tie-bar of my rst in order to push the rear wishbone towards the rear and so increasing toe-out. any thought on this? does it help to have the backend of the car pushing outwards when turning in a corner?
how many spacers does the original setp have btw?
thx in advance guys!
Originally Posted by NUTS RuS
We do a fully adjustable one so you can play at going in and out until your happy 

have u got any more info/pics of your setup m8? is that the full rear wishbone setup or just the tie-bar? whats your experience with just the tiebar having more toe-out?
cheers
I did a bit of searching round on the internet about this as my S1's got adjustable rods on the rear. I managed to find an American site where the guy said that it did.
Not tried it yet, bit concerned about it wearing my tyres out. I intend to have a play next time I do a track day.
Colin.
Not tried it yet, bit concerned about it wearing my tyres out. I intend to have a play next time I do a track day.
Colin.
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S1's do indeed have a threaded rear tie bar. These are still available from motor factors (as I chucked 3 brand new ones away about 12 months ago)
Trouble with just altering that bit is it also affects the rear castor if you go too far. The degrees altered by placing washers behind it cant really be accurate enough.
My rear toe out is measured down to 0ş 05' accuracy and as there are no rubber or poly bushes to give way on cornering it stays there exactly as set.
Adam remember you need to be running some rear coilovers to be able to fit this kit. But its designed in such a way that you just unbolt your old arm and tie bar and replace with the new. All the arms are protected in clear plastic sleeving to keep even the bufty boys happy.

The rear arm (nearest camera) takes care of toe (without upsetting castor), the pair together take care of camber, and the tie bar sorts out any castor changes needed.
All the stuff is plated and powder coated (any colour) so it wont rust (unlike my early prototype one in that pic
)
A "little" rear toe out will help cornering Arjan, but a camber change will do it more effectivly
Trouble with just altering that bit is it also affects the rear castor if you go too far. The degrees altered by placing washers behind it cant really be accurate enough.
My rear toe out is measured down to 0ş 05' accuracy and as there are no rubber or poly bushes to give way on cornering it stays there exactly as set.
Adam remember you need to be running some rear coilovers to be able to fit this kit. But its designed in such a way that you just unbolt your old arm and tie bar and replace with the new. All the arms are protected in clear plastic sleeving to keep even the bufty boys happy.

The rear arm (nearest camera) takes care of toe (without upsetting castor), the pair together take care of camber, and the tie bar sorts out any castor changes needed.
All the stuff is plated and powder coated (any colour) so it wont rust (unlike my early prototype one in that pic
)A "little" rear toe out will help cornering Arjan, but a camber change will do it more effectivly
Originally Posted by adamS2RST
Fook me Tony that all looks trick as fook
Wouldn't mind some of that, but maybe a bit overkill for my road going rs 
Wouldn't mind some of that, but maybe a bit overkill for my road going rs 
You'll need coilovers mind
this is my lot.... Well for now.... LOL


Adam remember you need to be running some rear coilovers to be able to fit this kit. But its designed in such a way that you just unbolt your old arm and tie bar and replace with the new. All the arms are protected in clear plastic sleeving to keep even the bufty boys happy.
And what are you trying to say i'm a bufty?
Looks wicked Rad
Originally Posted by NUTS RuS
S1's do indeed have a threaded rear tie bar. These are still available from motor factors (as I chucked 3 brand new ones away about 12 months ago)
Trouble with just altering that bit is it also affects the rear castor if you go too far. The degrees altered by placing washers behind it cant really be accurate enough.
My rear toe out is measured down to 0ş 05' accuracy and as there are no rubber or poly bushes to give way on cornering it stays there exactly as set.
The rear arm (nearest camera) takes care of toe (without upsetting castor), the pair together take care of camber, and the tie bar sorts out any castor changes needed.
All the stuff is plated and powder coated (any colour) so it wont rust (unlike my early prototype one in that pic
)
A "little" rear toe out will help cornering Arjan, but a camber change will do it more effectivly
Trouble with just altering that bit is it also affects the rear castor if you go too far. The degrees altered by placing washers behind it cant really be accurate enough.
My rear toe out is measured down to 0ş 05' accuracy and as there are no rubber or poly bushes to give way on cornering it stays there exactly as set.
The rear arm (nearest camera) takes care of toe (without upsetting castor), the pair together take care of camber, and the tie bar sorts out any castor changes needed.
All the stuff is plated and powder coated (any colour) so it wont rust (unlike my early prototype one in that pic
)A "little" rear toe out will help cornering Arjan, but a camber change will do it more effectivly

your rear wishbone setup is definitely worth fitting,too bad i just fitted the hammerited standard wishbone
Originally Posted by Arjan
too bad i just fitted the hammerited standard wishbone 
[quote="NUTS RuS"]S1's do indeed have a threaded rear tie bar. These are still available from motor factors (as I chucked 3 brand new ones away about 12 months ago)
How can u set these up when fitted or where can these be set up as i no mine is way out as wheel sit funny
How can u set these up when fitted or where can these be set up as i no mine is way out as wheel sit funny
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From: Vimto Land Nr Warrington, Cheshire
I used to run rose jointed rear wishbones before going full Gp A. This allowed rear camber settings to be changed but still kept use of the std strut and spring set up.
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