Giod morning guys.

I have installed a hydraulic clutch kit and something is wrong but I don't understand where the problem is.
I have mounted a Sach Performance with 6 Paddle ceramic but it is impossible to step on, it is incredibly hard.
The mechanic says it's because of the reinforced Sach but I've always read that this mod is the best to make the car feel comfortable, so I think there's something wrong and I don't see where.
Can you help me?

 

By hydraulic clutck kit do you mean with centre bearing or with those two external cylinders?
Have you bleed properly system?

 

Yes a kit with 1 master and 1 slave, it goes incredibly hard.
I'm about to go back to cable

 

what size cylinders have you used?

 

Are you talking about a side push hydraulic operation or a centre push operation?The Centre push is the best option and the master cylinder needs to be an 0.7 AP racing one or similar. The size of the master cylinder is important to lighten input at the pedal. It is also important to make sure the pedal is correctly in line with the master cylinder. Converting a 30 year old cable operated clutch to a modern centre push one is not a straight forward job and needs a skilled mechanic to do it. Done properly it is much better than the old cable type and with mine you can even get reverse easily with no crunching in the T5 gearbox!!!( if it is a 2wd Sapphire.) Stick with it as the end result will be worth it.

 

It's big work on a left hand drive car, master is well aligned with the pedal,

Master 0.750 its copy of AP and slave BMW e30
It is the same thing that I have read in infinite posts

Thinking:
Would it be the same where to connect the liquid bottle?

 

driven7 Looks like you have the correct master and slave cylinders. Not sure on your left hand drive (Sapphire Cosworth 2wd or 4x4? ) where the clutch fluid bottle is located.

My Fluid bottle

My Master cylinder.

Fluid bottle blends in ok.

 

Hello.
On LHD the servo brake had to be removed.
They are installed the same as yours, I have the bottle just above the master in the hole for the window cleaners.
​​​​​​

This week I am going to see how to install a slave at the tip of the fork, which will be softer.

 

Good morning.
I think I know where the error may be.
We have put the bleed nipple up on the slave and I have seen thousands of photos and read that the bleed nipple on the slave is down. It's possible, right?
As I mentioned I want to change the sleve and the inclination to improve the hardness. But I can try to change the position of the bleed nipple.

 

i would have thought if it was a air issue you would be getting no pedal . they are a bugger to bleed

 

I agree with you James, if there was air still in the system the pedal would not firm up. It is a strange one as he says the pedal is rock hard ?

 

might sound like a silly question because we have all been their ,but is the clutch plate in the right way around?

 

Actually the expert says that it is because of the reinforced cover (very reinforced) of Sachs Performance as you can see.
It's bleeding well, and it's very hard just trying it I want to sell it :sonrisa:

but how am I going to end up crazy because I'm learning to be a clutch engineer

 

I remember that clutch cover from Sachs as one of mine friends had that one,it was harder on pedal than my twin plate clutch...On that photo above your cylinder is fitted out of the box?
If so maybe the cylinder push lever angle is not correct,mine sits way more in and it is straight

 

when i bought my escos the owner said to me as I was walking up to the car that it needed a hydraulic clutch fitted as the clutch was very stiff.

I opened the bonnet and i saw the reservoir for a hydro clutch, and said to him it had one already.
it had the master fitted to the pedal under the dash so he never saw it after a tuner had fitted a oppligger box to it.

it was absolutley brutal, undrivable.

i took the engine and box out and it had a ttv 3 plate unsprung clutch fitted and when you pressed the pedal the pedal box would twist lol

 

Seems a lot of bullshit going on here.

1. Does the slave/bearing actually move relative to your foot ?

If you do not know....find out.

Does the clutch actually engage and disengage when you press the pedal down ?

From your posts, you seem to suggest the pedal is not even moving ?

So go back to number 1

And bleed nipples are to allow you to bleed air out. Air does not lay at the bottom.

 

The smart one is here, I don't allow you anything. I'm not going to answer any of your questions, take the medication, you're fatal, rude

 

LOL, then keep your fucked clutch.

Because I'm the only one who has actually given you any useful information. And your so called "expert" sounds full of shit.

If you do not know how to diagnose a problem....you'll never fix it.

 

cossie2, I did think that the angle does not look right, it needs to be straight as the side push conversion has to be spot on to work properly. as for the Sachs cover never used one so not sure. I have the Helix 6 paddle clutch and never had an issue with it.

 

Do not get into this post, take a walk rude.

 

I have used many ceramic 6 blades and never problems, only now that I have mounted a reinforced cover. I will mount the other slave more to the point.
I'll tell you

 

You really need to listen to Stevie, he like myself have been on here for more years then we can remember he is not rude he is just trying to help out.
He has more experience than most in modified cars that actually work........
I use a hydraulic center push clutch on mine with a really heavy helix clutch.
I think you need to start at the beginning.
Good luck.

 

You're welcome. But I'll drive thanks. All my cars clutches work.

 

Although they come to annoy with their comments. Tell you that I have already solved it, putting the slave more at the tip, so it is softer and it is not heavy.
You have to make a support and remove the box but a good result.

 

I've got a ttv 3 plate solid clutch in mine, it's certainly not over stiff, just a very small biting point and some vibration on overrun, I'm only on the midway cover but so far it's holding nearly 600 lbft fine, the only hard bit I had to get used to was biting point

 

mines on the clutch yours burnt out mapping lol. I’ve a helix 7.25 twin plate. Bite is very hard for me it’s literally on or off. I’m using the same tilton bearing in mine as yours. I just need time in mine to get used to it as mark can move it round same as I move my work van round. I do wake up in a cold sweat thinking about heavy traffic and a hill start lol

 

What plates did you go for mate ? Those sintered were shite, this ttv is beast not a hint of slip 👍👍

 

I’m pretty sure mine are the sintered but not 100% it was a while ago I paid for it. Funny enough last time I drove mine it didn’t feel as bad so not sure if they bed in or I’ve fucked it lol. Now I’ve my breather system it will get mapped when the suns here. Hopefully it will be cool as I’m on the turbo down. The 8474

 

Have you got my actual old clutch or a new one from helix ? From the pictures I saw it looked like scrap my old one 😂🤣

 

Na mines a new one. I’m sure I remember Mark saying originality we will use what’s in rods.

 

Yeah sintered no good for road can't slip it much at all, with my tall gearing even worse in mine 🤣😂
I'm happy with ttv except the vibration on overrun as it's solid 6 paddle plates, it's bearable though 👍

 

i think mine was very poorly installed and possibly the wrong master cylinder[im not sure]. i will certainly be changing the master from the pedal box onto the bulkhead .

my engine is probably not far off your spec but i will be detuning it to 500bhp

what size master cylinder is in your car carl?

 

I'm not sure mate, I can ask mark, it works well imo 👍

 

that would be great thanks carl

 

Msg me tmrw on here mate as I will be in workshop with car got a couple of bits I'm doing on car on the ramp 👍

 

will do carl cheers

 

when i first installed mine i put the master cylinder on the bulkhead. what i found was there was to much flex or movement in the bulkhead. after a waisted day trying to strengthen it i welded some angle iron on to the pedal box and mounted it to that. it worked ok on the bulkhead but just wasnt getting the best from it. ive used a willwood pull slave

 

maybe that was the reason why they put it on the pedal box so ray .

what size master did you use ?

 

When I did mine I’m sure Mark couldn’t remember what master was on Rods as it’s info Rod had. I’m using the same bearing a tilton 6000 series. My master is a tilton 76 series and it’s a .700 mark will be able to say how it compares to Carls set up. I had the use a strengthening plate on the bulkhead as normal. I also strengthened the pedal box and the clutch pedal it’s self.

 

This is the plate I welded into the back of my pedal as the pedal itself was flexing. Mine works fine as far as a clutch like I have is going to in a road car. But as I say mark can say how it feels compared to Carls.