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General Car Related Discussion.To discuss anything that is related to cars and automotive technology that doesnt naturally fit into another forum catagory.
He bought the first one we went to see .. 3dr in silver 69k full Ford history ,1 owner from new (lady) .not an ounce of rust on it anywhere but a 5p size dint in the passenger wing and a light scuff on front bumper so he's going to have the bits repaired and then I'll detail it him .they go really well tbh for what they are.
Break them all the time Mat on the whole they are not a bad car, vast majority of younger owners ignore maintenance, biggest issues are normally clutch and IMRC ,steering rack failures plus of course rust and pricey to run
Break them all the time Mat on the whole they are not a bad car, vast majority of younger owners ignore maintenance, biggest issues are normally clutch and IMRC ,steering rack failures plus of course rust and pricey to run
Break them all the time Mat on the whole they are not a bad car, vast majority of younger owners ignore maintenance, biggest issues are normally clutch and IMRC ,steering rack failures plus of course rust and pricey to run
Thanks mate ..if I need owt I'll message you ..the one hes bought looks lovely ,honest and straight.
I bought this one years ago for 600 quid. It had both custom and climate pack. It needed a rack cause it was notchy. It was a decent car. I used to have a few problems with the lambda sensors and as said the inlet manifold runner control module. I also had problems with the car not pulling all they through the rev range. That was down to the filters in the tank on the pump blocked.
Break them all the time Mat on the whole they are not a bad car, vast majority of younger owners ignore maintenance, biggest issues are normally clutch and IMRC ,steering rack failures plus of course rust and pricey to run
Ive heard they absolutely drink fuel? Is that true?
they can be thirsty mate and for the performance you get out of them it does make you think wtf at times but also drive great
I had heard that from a few people tbh, i was looking to buy a cheap daily runabout a few months back and was thinking st170 or civic type r, never had anything jap so went for the type r instead of the st170 in the end, the fuel factor was one of the reasons i thought I'd try the Honda
The engine in type r civic is on another planet to a 170 focus.
Brilliant car to drive though the 170
It does feel weird revving a standard daily driver to over 8k revs lol.
Shame it’s not as high a spec as the st’s, heated screen, half leathers, etc.
My civic ain’t even got a/c ha ha
Ive heard they absolutely drink fuel? Is that true?
Cheers Paul
I was lucky if I got 300 miles to a tank. Mine was fun car though it drove soooooo nice. Loads of people said they werent quick. Well I thought they were quick for what they are.
Was chatting about these the other night in the pub. My understanding is that if you can find one that isn’t rotten and isn’t too expensive you should buy it. Great all round car that may well be worth a few quid in years to come.
Was chatting about these the other night in the pub. My understanding is that if you can find one that isn’t rotten and isn’t too expensive you should buy it. Great all round car that may well be worth a few quid in years to come.
I agree. I also think Ford Pumas will be worth a few quid too.
I replaced mine last year , mine was 55000 miles , 2 owners , no rust , body work in very good condition , interior was like new , got £1500 for it which wasn't to bad tbh. The first person that came to look at it bought it straight away and didn't even haggle.
mat they are slow lol, and if you drive like me , town drive , a bit of caining now and again you will see an average return of 220/230 miles per tank which is shocking . Parts are super expensive if you want to use genuine so everything that I had problems with either got uprated or a good quality part like Bosch got used.
major problems are
rusty wheel arches
rusty sills get the waxed straight away
major rust behind the rear wheel well liner where the boot floor joins the wheel tubs , you can sometimes see this when you pull the interior out of the boot , it starts under the sealant where the panels join
front subframes going really rusty and falling apart
the alloys are shocking and will Defo need a pro job done if they haven't already been refurbed.
lambda sensors without a doubt he will have trouble with ford want £280 per sensor so I used a Bosch direct replacement that comes with the ford plug be careful there's the universal one which you have to cut the plug off etc
clutch master cylinder again will Defo go at some point , tip get the top of your trainer and rub it up and down the back of the pedal mine was covered in fluid but non on the carpet
possible radiator if he drives it hard like I did
spark plugs
leads
coilpacks
imrc I never had a problem
imrc lever snapping
thermostat leaking again at some point he will have a problem
throttle body always sticking because of reburning oil from breather system , just clean , but it can make you throttle pedal stick open like it did with me.
rear engine mount knocking due to worn out bush
cats just crumbling away and breaking up
the list is endless
the first mod is the imrc lever = billet one from pumaspeed take 10 mins to fit , if it breaks your looking at £600 for a new genuine item
coilpack = msd coilpack and leads again from pumaspeed
plugs = denso iridium
lambdas = Bosch
thermostat = cfm early zetec style solid Bakelite thermostat housing only found on American car with extra sensor bung delete which always leaks even if you buy a new genuine bung and washer from ford , also comes with 10 degree lower stat as they run very hot.
Throttle body = clean or cfm large 76mm billet throttle body and I'd does make a difference
air filter = close system only or fit a k and n filter in the original air box , tip remove the side snorkel on the air box and it sounds like a really good induction kit , it really does change the noise of the car
everything else as and when it fails lol
I also removed the air box resinator. People used the front slam panel(black plastic bit about the radiator) from and focus automatic cause they are different and it feeds more air into the front air box snorkel.
like any car the world is your oyster, these are expensive to mod sadly , the powerworks supercharger is best bang for buck, route I went down on mine was cams,headwork and shit loads of other expensive stuff but payback was tame for outlay tbh as spent around 2.5k for a 35hp increase as I could not find a supercharger when I was looking, we have a couple of 170 track cars as well and great parts stores from all the breakers so it make sense for us to play with these cars as its good fun on a budget
I also removed the air box resinator. People used the front slam panel(black plastic bit about the radiator) from and focus automatic cause they are different and it feeds more air into the front air box snorkel.
Thats the bit iam on about forgot what it was called lol
Thats the bit iam on about forgot what it was called lol
resonator box, best mod is to remove that bit and clip in the transit connect snorkel for duel air intake as on the american svt version, as you can see I also had the auto air intake on front panel too
I replaced mine last year , mine was 55000 miles , 2 owners , no rust , body work in very good condition , interior was like new , got £1500 for it which wasn't to bad tbh. The first person that came to look at it bought it straight away and didn't even haggle.
mat they are slow lol, and if you drive like me , town drive , a bit of caining now and again you will see an average return of 220/230 miles per tank which is shocking . Parts are super expensive if you want to use genuine so everything that I had problems with either got uprated or a good quality part like Bosch got used.
major problems are
rusty wheel arches
rusty sills get the waxed straight away
major rust behind the rear wheel well liner where the boot floor joins the wheel tubs , you can sometimes see this when you pull the interior out of the boot , it starts under the sealant where the panels join
front subframes going really rusty and falling apart
the alloys are shocking and will Defo need a pro job done if they haven't already been refurbed.
lambda sensors without a doubt he will have trouble with ford want £280 per sensor so I used a Bosch direct replacement that comes with the ford plug be careful there's the universal one which you have to cut the plug off etc
clutch master cylinder again will Defo go at some point , tip get the top of your trainer and rub it up and down the back of the pedal mine was covered in fluid but non on the carpet
possible radiator if he drives it hard like I did
spark plugs
leads
coilpacks
imrc I never had a problem
imrc lever snapping
thermostat leaking again at some point he will have a problem
throttle body always sticking because of reburning oil from breather system , just clean , but it can make you throttle pedal stick open like it did with me.
rear engine mount knocking due to worn out bush
cats just crumbling away and breaking up
the list is endless
the first mod is the imrc lever = billet one from pumaspeed take 10 mins to fit , if it breaks your looking at £600 for a new genuine item
coilpack = msd coilpack and leads again from pumaspeed
plugs = denso iridium
lambdas = Bosch
thermostat = cfm early zetec style solid Bakelite thermostat housing only found on American car with extra sensor bung delete which always leaks even if you buy a new genuine bung and washer from ford , also comes with 10 degree lower stat as they run very hot.
Throttle body = clean or cfm large 76mm billet throttle body and I'd does make a difference
air filter = close system only or fit a k and n filter in the original air box , tip remove the side snorkel on the air box and it sounds like a really good induction kit , it really does change the noise of the car
everything else as and when it fails lol
hope this helps mat
cheers paul
Cheers Paul that's mega advice mate ..I'll pass that on to him ..so far he's really happy with it .