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Cracked my standard block last weekend and was wondering what is involved in fitting the Mazda 6 2.3 duratec? I've been told the iB5+ gearbox fits, presumably I'd have to remap the ECU and I need to fit the 2.0 head as the 2.3 has an oil feed?
Other than that is it simple enough plug and play? Are the elections the same and will it drive without the ECU remapped to get me to the garage? Will keep you updated on the progress if it goes ahead! Thanks
Jamsport or pumaspeed may be able to give you pointers as I know they have done the 2.3 conversion a fair few times.
The only thing I know for sure is you need a shim under the engine mount to lift the engine a wee bit. And I'm pretty positive the ecu and gearbox can be used.
Keep us posted on your progress would be interesting to see what needs to be done to get her running! Good luck
I know - made quite a knocking when it went! I've been looking all over for some answers (focus, mazda, fiesta forums... went into the mazda garage today to have a chat with a mechanic) Thats a good idea I'll give give them a call tomorrow and hopefully find someone that knows what they're talking about!
Duratec i4 really dont like low oil level. My Mz3 2.0 is in bits in the old mans garage due to low oil and an emergency stop. Imo the sump pan is quite small.
Not sure what caused it - oil level was fine had checked before leaving the house. Wasn't driving it hard when it went - just in town at 30mph. Recon the oil pump could have gone but I have no idea.
Good news though! I have bought a 2.3 Mazda 6 engine and am currently swapping over ancillaries, sensors, clutch etc. The boy selling the engine had a Cosworth rep. inlet manifold and I already had the 60mm throttle body so hoping for a bit of poke once/if I get it up and running. Debating wither or not to swap the heads over - it would be a better job and give more power but I don't really have a clue what I'm doing!
Does anyone have or know of a fitting guide for the Cosworth inlet manifold? It has been designed for the 2.3 so a throttle cable rather than fly-by-wire so the connections and ports are slightly different.
Engine's in and plugged up but isn't starting It's getting a spark, fuel and air but just not taking. Flames came out the back of the manifold so something's happening but just not starting???
There is one plug I can't find where it goes - didn't have time to have a proper look (I've attached a photo) it's the NS behind the battery? But doubt that would stop it from starting though. Would there be something from the ECU stopping it from properly starting but still allowing it to turn over?
I'm away for a couple of weeks so its going to have to wait until I'm back though.
I'd say that's a crank sensor plug, which might give you the symptoms you describe as it doesn't know where tdc is.
flames in inlet manifolds usually mean mistiming or incorrect ignition lead placement, but you may have meant exhaust manifold.
i would have thought you'd get no spark without connecting it tho.
Last edited by london_chris; Jul 1, 2016 at 12:37 PM.
Got the engine started. That sensor went to the power steering so not crucial in getting it started. The fault was that the crank pulley on the Mazda engine was larger in diameter than the Ford pulley thus gave the crankshaft sensor a dodgy reading. All I had to do was swap the pulleys around, fabricate a new sensor holder to bring it closer to the pulley and she started up fine. However, as it would have it, the engine was making a rattling sound. A couple of garages diagnosed a big end fault so I currently have the sump off and am waiting for to fit new bearings as the crank doesn't look too badly scratched and a couple of bearings are a bitty scoured. Also the engine management light came on a couple of times the 70 odd miles I did on it - no idea what is causing that but hopefully will resolve:/
On a side note I have removed the crank balancer and replaces it with a delete kit which should allow it to rev a little freer and reduce weight by a good 15kg!
Other than that the engine fitted with no modifications - I put spacers under the OS engine mount to raise it up 20mm and had to modify the dip stick to fit behind the inlet manifold.
it seems to be the "cheapest" way to get more power, as here in Spain is almost imposible to supercharge the car as it would not pass MOT.
Did the engine finally started Evomark?
best regards,
The 2.3 doesn't have more power than the 2.0! Its got more torque. But you still have to tune it the same way as a 2.0. So the cheapest option is to tune your 2.0
Originally Posted by evomark
Got the engine started. That sensor went to the power steering so not crucial in getting it started. The fault was that the crank pulley on the Mazda engine was larger in diameter than the Ford pulley thus gave the crankshaft sensor a dodgy reading. All I had to do was swap the pulleys around, fabricate a new sensor holder to bring it closer to the pulley and she started up fine. However, as it would have it, the engine was making a rattling sound. A couple of garages diagnosed a big end fault so I currently have the sump off and am waiting for to fit new bearings as the crank doesn't look too badly scratched and a couple of bearings are a bitty scoured. Also the engine management light came on a couple of times the 70 odd miles I did on it - no idea what is causing that but hopefully will resolve:/
On a side note I have removed the crank balancer and replaces it with a delete kit which should allow it to rev a little freer and reduce weight by a good 15kg!
Other than that the engine fitted with no modifications - I put spacers under the OS engine mount to raise it up 20mm and had to modify the dip stick to fit behind the inlet manifold.
You must of been gutted to get it going then have to replace the bearings? You got any mods done to the engine or future plans?
Dear Phil, what do you think about 2.3engine with 2.0 head? That is my idea. I think it must have more power thanjust the 2.0 engine, as it has 300cc more displacement
At this moment I have quite modified my2.0 engine: KN typhoon air intake, 60mm TB, cosworth style intake manifold,Newman fast road cams, milltek ex. Manifold and mongoose decat ex.line. and I amrunning Pumaspeed 190 map (apart from other chassis mods)
I have read that 2.3 engine does not reachas high rpm as 2.0 liter does. Now I have the rpm limit in 7100rpm.
P.S: I cannot understand what Mark meantwith this: I put spacers under the OSengine mount could someone explain it? What is OS engine mount?
The 2.3 engine is taller than the 2.0 so the engine mount on the timing chain end that attaches the engine to the chassis leg needs a spacer to lift the engine up so the right hand side driveshaft clears the subframe.
O/S relates to Off side (furthest away from the kerb)
Yeah the few miles I did you could fell it had more power but then I didn't have the inlet on the 2.0 so would be contributing to it as well. The only engine modifications I have are the K&N filter, 60mm TB, inlet manifold. I've always fancied high lift cams but I don't fancy trying that myself.
ive done everything on my car myself except the cams! i got wr racing to fit piper cams in mine
where you from mark? im in northfield
Yeah wouldn't feel too confident trying the timing etc myself. What modifications have you made? The cams must give you a good bit of power - is it slightly lumpy when idling?
I'm out Newmachar way on a farm.
Your a teuchter min! I'm originally from kemnay but moved to northfield last year. It's only lumpy on cold starts but it's fine after a couple of minutes
Got miltek mani, scorpion sport cat and cat back, piper cams, pipercross venom. Bc coilovers, focus rs brembos and bucket seats
Did have a cossie inlet fitted and it made 195bhp but I took it off cause it was killing the torque and it drives much better now! Probably sitting at about 180-185bhp?
in my case throttle bodyes are not an option, same as turbo , it would not pass MOT and you need a megasquirt or similar for the TB.
Phil, i am really surprised. so you decided to remove the cosworth inlet?
the point is that i already have it bougth, but i need time to get it fitted, and that is my concern, to kill the car. i have read several times that you lose some torque, but is it so much? i think i will try it my self and then decide.
by the way, we finally decided to use Newman cams as they were supposed to be a bit more agresive than piper ones. we got a very good Price from newman also
yeah pablo, i think the best ones you can buy for our spec is the newmans or the cossie 200 spec cams
the only good thing about the cossie inlet is the noise! it makes the car sound fucking awesome! its just sat in my shed gathering dust at the momentbut im keeping though cause i do plan on turboing it in the future.
i guess you can fit it and see for yourself? you gain bhp but lose torque
Cracked block - Mazda 6 2.3 engine replacement - photos
It's getting a spark, fuel and air but just not taking. Flames came out the back of the manifold so something's happening but just not starting???
