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usual rs turbo overheating help

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Old May 9, 2016 | 03:59 AM
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Default usual rs turbo overheating help

hey people I wonder if someone could give me some advice.ive searched on here without giving me an idea whats up
my orion is running a cvh with cossie management and seems to be getting rather hot on a run
I'm using a new airtec single pass front mount I/C,pair of 9inch kenlowe fans,new 74c stat,airtec ally rad and also a mocal temp gauge plumbed in next to fan switch on thermostat housing

when I warmed the car up at home the fans came in at 90c and went off at 80c so thought happy days all is well.when I go out for a drive in it the temp will go to just under 100c unless I put the heaters on hot then it will come down to 90c.i know front mounts block the radiator as was never designed to have one but is it the gap between the I/c and rad causing the issue as I have I/c fans rad.if so what could I use to surround the rad and ic so air coming through has to go through the rad?

any help greatfully appreciated as I do hate cars that get hot.thanks
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Old May 9, 2016 | 06:41 AM
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Have a look through this project thread mate you can see the guy makes a deal between rad and cooler and seemed to have good results

https://passionford.com/forum/restor...-4-2016-a.html
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Old May 9, 2016 | 07:30 AM
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As above get yourself to screw fix and get some of that foam. I got some to do mine yesterday. Worth a try at 7 pounds. Mine is doing the exact same as yours aswell.
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Old May 9, 2016 | 08:47 AM
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.

That's my Cabby mate, it does help as any air that goes through the intercooler gets forced through the rad instead of get blown out of the gaps around it. If your fans are behind the I.C then you could still seal up around the out side but you would need to use pipe lagging.

I did mine this way as it meant no mods to the bumper or front panel just a spacer bar to move the bottom of the rad back into the bay an inch.

Let us know if it helps if you do it. Would be interested to see other peoples results.


.
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Old May 9, 2016 | 08:53 AM
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.


Rig your fans up and see how much air comes out of the gaps before doing it and fell the lack of air flow through the rad to compare the difference.

Ginger


.
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Old May 10, 2016 | 05:35 AM
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cheers for replys.when the fans are on I do get loads of air passing through the rad but when I'm driving the temp just seems to go up and up.was adviced to seal between the rad and ic just didn't know what to use so that when driving and air went through it woiuld be forced through the rad.ill look at pipe lagging cheers or might put fans on front of ic and seal the ic to rad like the way you have.
now weathers getting better it just worrys me seeing the temp climb to 100c unless I melt by putting the heaters on lol

how people say they cant wait to drive their turbos in summer bemuses me lol
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Old May 10, 2016 | 11:59 AM
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you have a problem somewhere with your cooling system
you shouldnt have to seal up the gaps at the side just to force more air through

whats the condition of the radiator?
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Old May 10, 2016 | 04:22 PM
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You've not mentioned how old the water pump is. I had no details of my belt and pump change, While the belt looked newish the pump looked old. I replaced it and my temps stay down a lot more than before. A good quality coolant product helps too.

My car has airtec rad/FMIC/turbo cooler/ twin 9' kenlowe fans/uprated stat/Good coolant/new pump/new sender and fan switch/Fan over-ride switch for one that runs of the stat and a switch fused to the stereo for the 2nd fan if it ever need to use it for traffic. Yes it gets hot, but not like it did before the pump change.
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Old May 11, 2016 | 08:38 AM
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radiator is an airtec ally one.not sure on age as was fitted before I owned the car.does seem poss rad related as by using heater to cool heater matrix its doing the radiators job with the airflow.
water pump is working as I rev it I see coolant going back into the header tank.my turbo was water cooled but used to boil the water like a kettle on boost so have disconnected that which did help but now summers coming its warming it up again
would a swirl pot make a difference as mine doesn't have one?

tbh I'm not sure its a fan problem as driving at motorway speeds the natural airflow should cool the rad and fans not be used.

Last edited by B19 JUB; May 11, 2016 at 09:11 AM.
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Old May 11, 2016 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by B19 JUB
would a swirl pot make a difference as mine doesn't have one?
CVH thermostat housings are a swirl pot so not required at all other than the "bling" factor
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Old May 11, 2016 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by haz87
CVH thermostat housings are a swirl pot so not required at all other than the "bling" factor
ah okies cheers harry
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Old May 11, 2016 | 07:36 PM
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How old is the header tank cap, That can fail as it has a pressure release valve build underneath the top.
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Old May 13, 2016 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by RSmark84
How old is the header tank cap, That can fail as it has a pressure release valve build underneath the top.
brand new ford cap and header tank,i can take cap off when its reading 100c and it doesn't even boil over
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Old May 13, 2016 | 09:37 AM
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check your fuelling, and maybe even ignition map.

If it's running lean it will get very hot very fast, especially on boost
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Old May 13, 2016 | 11:22 AM
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I know the car is running mega rich.i have an innovate afr gauge and it runs most of the time at 7.4
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Old May 15, 2016 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by B19 JUB
I know the car is running mega rich.i have an innovate afr gauge and it runs most of the time at 7.4
You've probably filled the oil with petrol!
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Old May 16, 2016 | 06:46 AM
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yeah I know.need to get to my tuner asap for a mapping session
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Old May 16, 2016 | 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by B19 JUB
yeah I know.need to get to my tuner asap for a mapping session
Seriously though, if your oil is getting ruined, your whole engine will run hot (and be destroying itself) because of the lack of lubrication
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