Hi all really need to pick some brains

I've got pretty much stock rst s2
Ony as a chip ecu and t3 turbo with 360 roller bearing and a exhaust

I've just had a full stage 1 clutch kit fitted brand new quadrant and cable so all new there

But the clutch is slipping at low boost of 7 psi the flywheel looks mint

As anyone else had the issue or have an idea what could be the issue as I'm a little stumped lol any advice would be great many thanks

 

Sadly "full stage 1 clutch" doesn't mean anything.

What clutch have you actually fitted? Make/model number etc..
Did you have the flywheel skimmed?

 

Probably a techniclutch....

New quadrant/cable etc, has it been fitted/routed correctly? Its not too tight causing the plate to disengage slightly?

 

Hi there the clutch was fitted by my local garage I assume there work is good ... I've not had the fly wheel skimmed at all tho
The clutch it self is unbranded far as I'm aware was bought off a ebay shop which said it rated for 220 bhp which clearly I'm not running at 7 psi

 

I should think that's the problem right there. Unbranded clutch bought off ebay. So chances are it's a techniclutch or some other company that are known to supply junk.

Most of their clutches are very low quality standard items painted "sporty colours".

 

I was always told that new clutches have to be bedded in, otherwise they slip straight from the off.

 

Not sure about letting bed in but might try a few miles I've already cover 50 in it all ready lol failing that it's another new clutch dose any one recommend a half decent clutch that will take 180bhp and we're to buy it from thanks

 

When I ordered an uprated clutch from America for my last car, I was advised to bed it in/no high revs until I had covered at least 500 miles!

 

Well if you have no luck with your current clutch there are plenty of choices. Have a search on here to see as there is different clutch and pressure plate set ups people have had good results with.

When my ERST was running 170bhp I was using an AP CP2000-8 with the pedal/quadrant mod and it worked well.

Just make sure which ever one you go for is being bought from a reputable company.

 

Technicrap sell on ebay. and their clutches are shit.

Did you bed it in or give it death straight away?

New clutch on any performance car will require the fly to be refaced.

Sorry hope you get it sorted cheaply.

 

its only a 220mm clutch/flywheel. its tiny in comparison to other cars. needs to be skimmed and balance pal. i had same problem. also a good quality clutch is needed like LPUK, or if your running 1 bar then get a ap 4 paddle clutch from burton power and stop being tight get it skimmed and get a paddle clutch

 

Didn't relies u had to bed it in will try to if that resolve it not given it to much beans to be fair just tried to see if the clutch was any better so probably just twice with little spray over 2 gears

Was going to put a paddle clutch in but didn't think would be needed for the power I want to run at 180bhp and advise by the garage that didn't need the fly wheel skimmed

But if it don't bed in then I will be putting a ap clutch in n skimming the fly wheel

Will keep ya all posted

 

Back in the day (1988) I had my S1 Turbo chipped to 185hp, back when chipping cars was a relatively new technology.
The standard clutch started slipping almost immediately and gave up completely after a few hundred miles.
I fitted an AP clutch and never had any further issues whatsoever, and believe you me, I put that thing to the test on many occasions!!

 

treat a new clutch like new brakes. you dont fit new discs and pads and expect to do heavy braking.

Also as said you really need a uprated clutch and fly skimmed. Balancing is a matter of choice i have never done this as any balancing imo should be done as a complete assembly fly crank front pulley and clutch. Most good quality clutches are balanced.

 

I would never fit a new clutch without skimming the flywheel.
It is like putting new brake pads on worn out discs - poor performance will be the result.

It is also a very good idea (and usually recommended by clutch manufacturers)not to use high rpm or high power abuse for 500 km minimum.

 

i did the LPUK heavy duty clutch from matt lewis, 3 piece jobbie and didn't skim the fly wheel, after 300 miles it improved a bit in 3rd and would hold boost to 1 bar and after 746 miles it still hadn't got much better as 2nd gear off a round about it was crap.

so after those 746 miles out came the gearbox again one weekend on the driveway, the fly wheel whet to a precision engineers down the road, cost me £10 cash in hand skimmed all the face, balanced and new dowels fitted, left the standard cover and bearing in and in went burton powers AP clutch, after a light 30 miles a couldn't resist it and nailed it in 1st 2nd and 3rd and it was amazing, instant hold no slipping, it'll take a while to get used to the judder moving off just give it more revs but boy it was great 170bhp 1bar. ill be having 18psi later this year when I've but a 360 bearing in the turbo.

 

It was probably down to the car having an LUK clutch. In one of mine cars the spider broke off the centre plate leaving the car with no drive 300 yards after the clutch was fitted! With a genuine clutch I had no issues. A garage I use now and again refuses to fit LUK clutches or basically says he will not warranty the job if you buy one.

 

I've had this exact same problem! Brought a drivetourque clutch from eBay, stage 2. Took it out on road test and slipping under power. Haven't had a chance to look at it since

 

I spent most of 2014 driving with no boost the clutch was slipping that bad. Brand new LUK clutch, new cable and skimmed flywheel - Still slipped. After taking the box in and out 3 times I thought enough was enough and fitted the AP Organic clutch with the Mk5 pedal and alloy quadrant. I took it easy for 200 miles with plenty of town driving to bed it in. Others say flat out from the word go and have no issues but
I didn't`t want to risk taking it out again!


The car runs MSD stage 1, 180bhp BTW

 

had this problem with my series1 slips all the time worst when you load it up in 3rd and 4th

 

If your problem is an on a Series 1 and the clutch and flywheel are the original size this problem would be worse ; the clutch is 200mm in these cars, as opposed to 225mm in the later S2s. My ZVH runs a 225mm clutch, but of the paddle variety.

 

mines on a 220

 

Basically don't buy any clutches from eBay unless they are from a reputable seller like MSD... most are cheap crap that slip at even standard power.