Cam belt timing marks and ignition timing
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From: shrewsbury
I've just been to check the timing and from what I can make out its set to four degrees is this correct as I thought if it had been set up it would be set to a higher number?

It's set between the 0 and 8 witch is 4 I was thinking??
Am I right that the marks are 0 4 8 12 16??

It's set between the 0 and 8 witch is 4 I was thinking??
Am I right that the marks are 0 4 8 12 16??
Last edited by slimwynn; Aug 28, 2014 at 10:44 PM.
static timing is zero,
crank notch to the 0 , cam pulley pointer to the dot on head
with no1 piston at top of its stroke
a timing light is used for the higher number you speak of
12 degrees is the standard running advance,
this can be altered when an engine is upgraded/tuned
but can damage an engine if you don`t know enough to be playing around
crank notch to the 0 , cam pulley pointer to the dot on head
with no1 piston at top of its stroke
a timing light is used for the higher number you speak of
12 degrees is the standard running advance,
this can be altered when an engine is upgraded/tuned
but can damage an engine if you don`t know enough to be playing around
Thread Starter
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: shrewsbury
Yeah I read that 12dbtc is standard that's why I was unsure why mine was set at 4dbtc I thought 8dbtc is the lowest you go when your tuning a car then keep advancing??.
static timing is zero,
crank notch to the 0 , cam pulley pointer to the dot on head
with no1 piston at top of its stroke
a timing light is used for the higher number you speak of
12 degrees is the standard running advance,
this can be altered when an engine is upgraded/tuned
but can damage an engine if you don`t know enough to be playing around
crank notch to the 0 , cam pulley pointer to the dot on head
with no1 piston at top of its stroke
a timing light is used for the higher number you speak of
12 degrees is the standard running advance,
this can be altered when an engine is upgraded/tuned
but can damage an engine if you don`t know enough to be playing around
OP, the numbers on the cover are simply the number of degrees BTDC and is used for setting IGNITION timing.
Martin
When the engine is running a strobe light is shone at those markings, the point of ignition marries with the notch in the crank pulley and then the STATIC ignition timing can be determined, which is 12 degrees.
In your case this is adjustable, on the Cosworth for example and all modern cars this is electronically set and is not adjustable.
It's a complex subject but basically the ECU will advance further from this dependant on engine speed, load and temperature etc.
The figure above is for a standard engine.
Martin
On the RS Turbo the igntion is ECU controlled by the silver box, but the distributor still needs to be set-up so the base timing at idle is correct as even though the ECU controls the timing, if the base timing is out (retarded for example) the whole 'map' will be retarded, same goes for being over-advanced.
If you're setting it up, be careful you don't get any 'pinking' 'detonation'
Make yourself some 'det cans' and tune the car so no audible 'det'
Or even better get it set up by an expert on the dyno.
Also remembered the 12 degrees base timing should be with the vac hose from the ECU removed/blocked.
If you're setting it up, be careful you don't get any 'pinking' 'detonation'
Make yourself some 'det cans' and tune the car so no audible 'det'
Or even better get it set up by an expert on the dyno.
Also remembered the 12 degrees base timing should be with the vac hose from the ECU removed/blocked.
Last edited by GVK.; Aug 23, 2014 at 06:35 PM.
As far as the cam timing goes when the cam belt pulley is showing the arrow lining up with the dot on the head at TDC the crank pulley should be on 0 (TDC) If you have the bottom pulley off the woodruff key on the crank should be at 12 o clock.
Last edited by GVK.; Aug 23, 2014 at 06:34 PM.
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Thread Starter
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,161
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From: shrewsbury
On the RS Turbo the igntion is ECU controlled by the silver box, but the distributor still needs to be set-up so the base timing at idle is correct as even though the ECU controls the timing, if the base timing is out (retarded for example) the whole 'map' will be retarded, same goes for being over-advanced.
If you're setting it up, be careful you don't get any 'pinking' 'detonation'
Make yourself some 'det cans' and tune the car so no audible 'det'
Or even better get it set up by an expert on the dyno.
Also remembered the 12 degrees base timing should be with the vac hose from the ECU removed/blocked.
If you're setting it up, be careful you don't get any 'pinking' 'detonation'
Make yourself some 'det cans' and tune the car so no audible 'det'
Or even better get it set up by an expert on the dyno.
Also remembered the 12 degrees base timing should be with the vac hose from the ECU removed/blocked.
yes I checked the timing when the vac hose was blocked.
I have a wideband a/r gauge to keep an eye on fuelling.
I know taking it to a tuners would be best its just I'm keen on learning how to tune the rs mfi and in the near future I'm planing on going efi ofam.
I'm using 99ron fuel.
Last edited by slimwynn; Aug 24, 2014 at 08:14 PM.
So you are saying your idle/static ignition timing is 4 deg BTDC with the vacuum hose disconnected and blocked?
If so then yes that is unusually retarded... it may be there for a reason (det at full load WOT if any further advanced?) or you may have a faulty, ECU, ACT sensor, dizzy, etc..
If so then yes that is unusually retarded... it may be there for a reason (det at full load WOT if any further advanced?) or you may have a faulty, ECU, ACT sensor, dizzy, etc..
Thread Starter
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: shrewsbury
So you are saying your idle/static ignition timing is 4 deg BTDC with the vacuum hose disconnected and blocked?
If so then yes that is unusually retarded... it may be there for a reason (det at full load WOT if any further advanced?) or you may have a faulty, ECU, ACT sensor, dizzy, etc..
If so then yes that is unusually retarded... it may be there for a reason (det at full load WOT if any further advanced?) or you may have a faulty, ECU, ACT sensor, dizzy, etc..
yes m8 it's set at four with the hose off and blocked.

I take its four its set between 8 and 0
well i'm in the process of making some det cans so i can keep an ear on whats happening in the engine.
why when tuning do you keep advancing the timing whats it doing when you do??
cheers
Last edited by slimwynn; Aug 28, 2014 at 10:57 PM.
So you are saying your idle/static ignition timing is 4 deg BTDC with the vacuum hose disconnected and blocked?
If so then yes that is unusually retarded... it may be there for a reason (det at full load WOT if any further advanced?) or you may have a faulty, ECU, ACT sensor, dizzy, etc..
If so then yes that is unusually retarded... it may be there for a reason (det at full load WOT if any further advanced?) or you may have a faulty, ECU, ACT sensor, dizzy, etc..
I take its four its set between 8 and 0
well i'm in the process of making some det cans so i can keep an ear on whats happening in the engine.
why when tuning do you keep advancing the timing whats it doing when you do??
cheers[/QUOTE]
Advancing, like the name suggests means the point of ignition will occur earlier, relative to the pistons position, i.e. 12 degrees BTDC.
It's a complex subject, but basically the mixture needs time to burn to be most efficient, depending on the setup, advancing may give gains when done correctly, done incorrectly it will run worse and cause damage!
Martin
Last edited by martysmartie; Aug 29, 2014 at 12:01 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: shrewsbury
I'm only using the picture to show the markings on the casing as when I use a timing strobe the mark on the pulley is sitting between 8 and 0 when the engine is running.
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