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Tig welders

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Old Feb 23, 2014 | 10:24 PM
  #1  
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From: Hook
Default Tig welders

I'm after a TIG welder but have only just started looking at them. I will only really use it for work on cars so with this in mind, what welders would you recommend?
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 11:13 PM
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DC or AC/DC?
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 11:32 PM
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You only need AC for aluminium welding, I've got a DC one (a cheap Chinese type combined plasma cutter which works very well), wish I'd got an AC/DC one now though, but if you're not going to be welding aluminium not a problem.

If I was buying one now I'd want: current up-slope/down-slope setting or one that has current variable via a foot pedal as getting to the corner of a metal for example you really need to be able to reduce the current to prevent blowing holes from too much heat.
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 07:59 PM
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Good advice above defo need a foot pedal for ends/edges. Tigs are great for sitting at a bench making stuff like exhausts and brackets. I've always found them of limited value on bodywork because it's hard to maintain torch position and get in a body position where you can use a foot pedal too. They'll also warp a panel easily unless you're clever enough to use a hammer and dolly straight after and planing the weld. Any shit paint rust dirt or insects on the metal and they don't like it it. You also need pure argon which is feckin expensive not trying to put you off buddy its a super thing to learn. I've got a portatig which I can highly recommend. Downside is they're not a portable machine but transistor based so much more reliable than an inverter based. Hope that's a wee bit of help. stew
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 11:04 PM
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I use craterfill settings on mine for corners etc, or just move quick, or weld the ends first then stop start from those points to make sure I don't blow them away but that's just how I've come accustomed as I do it day in day out.

A HF set makes life rather easy when arcing up I must say.
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