Any body know what "workshop alternator" means?
And also when started from cold it takes up to 5 min before engaging drive or 234 it's auto but reverse engages straight away it's a 1.9 TDI
CHEERS

 

Bump....

 

No idea about the alternator but might be worth checking auto box fluid level for starters.

 

On a second note check out this thread for the alternator
http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/in...ator-workshop/

 

Thanks very much mate sounds like the same happening in the thread
Cheers again stevos

 

No probs mate let me know how you get on. It's always good to post up when you get it fixed as if someone is having similar issues it lets them know what you done to resolve the issue.

 

Looks like it's the same problem as on the thread so thanks again mate will post what I change too

 

Depending on year of vehicle you might have a voltmeter bottom right of the dash, usually alt pulley failure, mine did it last week.
I've changed loads of them.

The auto issue might not be affected by the pulley though. Beware, the valve bodies in the boxes go - often.

 

Right I've managed to get round to change fuse box and she fires up with a jump start but drives in limp mode no power for wipers etc and dead when you turn off n on again?
I didn't change alternator cable just cleaned it up and bolted it on as wire didn't look fooked!
Should I change it any way?
And where do you find the part no or even a pic of alternator cable on net???
Cheers

 

Oh and someone's said check something on the bottom of the gear box??
Any ideas?

 

Have you checked if the alternator is working properly? Should output 14.4ish volts when running.

 

Now that would be good place to start lol
And no I haven't!! Il go get a volt tester from home base and see,
Cheers Richie

 

If its not running at the right voltage then it might put the car into limp mode which then won't allow it to drive, pulleys are common on these

 

Got myself a multimeter but no clue how to use it??
Can anyone simplify what setting to use and where to take readings from on alternator cheers

 

DC 20v red to live on battery and black to earth it should read around 14.7 v

 

Will that show if alternators ok or just that the battery is ok?
Cheers ginger

 

Both test it first and write down the ready before you start it, then start it up and test it while its running and write that down, then switch it off and put on the ignition and all the lights and heating test it straight away and write that reading down and then again after 5 minutes of the battery being under load

 

Cheers mate

 

So far she's dead to start with and showing -7.18
After jump start and running it's -6.01
With lights on etc ( nothing working) it's -6.34

Nothing working as no power for wipers lights etc just drops a few revs the rev counter not even moving ?
Turn off and flat again with -7.50
How would I know if it's the alternator or just the cable from alternator to fuse box as I haven't changed this yet??

 

Firstly check the to make sure the pulley is still attached to the alternator as these tend to rip apart the inside of the pulley, if that's ok the place the black wire(negative) to any earth point under the car, and the red(positive) to the output on the back of the alternator while its running

 

Ok will try that,
Have just ordered new cable anyhow but take couple of days to arrive
Cheers again mate

 

No worries m8

 

On the thread above they say the cable cost him about £18 in 2005 mine just cost me £51:45 with vat!
Pity the galaxy don't go up in price like parts do

 

Lol think yourself lucky its not a rover

 

Right have fitted new cable and checked battery for voltage with lights etc on ( wipers not working n lights very dim)
I'm getting 6.37 with everything on and engine running
I take it by this it's a new alternator needed!

 

Ps all pulleys look ok

 

Next best option then is take off the alternator and spin up the pulley with a drill or impact gun with the test on the back as it does sound like the alternator

 

Cheers mate

 

sounds like theyre well known for these things then , turned off my 2.0 Diesel 2006 Galaxy yesterday after an long run ,when i came back to it ti would crank and splutter but not go ,done the same this morning bloody thing !!

 

Some real fundamentals of auto electrical testing missing here guys.

A) Use multi meter and obtain a battery reference voltage, no pint in measuring the alternator if you have no idea what the battery voltage is. Measure the battery (20v scale over the battery terminal everything switched off) If you have not got over 12v stay here until you have - recharge the battery to begin with.

B) When the ignition is switched on (eng off) does the battery light illuminate? if not you will not excite the alternators field current, believe it or not, that battery light is very important!

C) If the battery light illuminated (ign on) start the car, at the 8mm bolt(13mm nut size) measure the voltage right from the alternator to the battery negative, this should be around 14v (eng running)

If you can meet all the above with positive outcomes e.g. battery at 12v, battery light working ign off, extinguishes when engine running the it will be the alternator, providing the alternator is being driven correctly mechanically.

When the free wheeling clutch fails the alt looks like its spinning, the pulley will be spinning but loss of drive the alternator rotor will occur.

I think that should just about do it!

 

Great post.

[ puts hand up ] For our next lesson sir could you explain voltage drop testing to prove the live cable and grounds are good?

 

I can if you really want, but lets get some basic information in first