As there are lots of knowledge people and scooby folk on here, can anyone tell me in fairly easy to understand language which parts I need to remove in order to get enough access to change the leads, please?

I did watch someone do the spark plugs for me (which are a bitch!), but I can only remember that we removed the water bottle!
Air box?
It's a standard 99 uk turbo 2000.
Here's a pic for reference;



(No that's not mine all nice and clean!)

Thanks

 

dont need any tools unless you take the washer bottle out (bolts will usually snap though)

just do 1 lead at a time

Done.

 

But how do you get to the left hand side when that bit with the pink cap is all in the way?

 

looks like you'd need to remove the air inlet pipe infront of that which should hopefully give you access

 

Can you not get them from underneath???

 

Thanks acidburn.

Glenn, I don't like sticking my head under cars!!

 

washer bottle out on the passenger side and inlet pipe and maybe airbox out on the drivers side and you should be able to get to them.

 

I dont mind sticking my head any where wink wink.

 

Cheers paulo. I shall attempt that!

Glenn!! No!

 

Ha ha lol.Love ya Elle.

 

From the top squash your hands in and pull...
Can't remember what years have coil packs on the plugs?

 

Version 1 & 2 and then newage cars. Version 3 - 6 have a single coil pack on the inlet manifold and HT leads.

 

Pretty much this.

Remove airbox on drivers side to give best/easiest access, and remove washer bottle on passenger side.

And hope the car has been serviced well and the leads havent been there since day one and melted onto the plugs.

 

Just out of interest, is there a reason you're changing the leads?

 

Here you go this is how it's done

 

Thank you, and Paulo.
Did exactly that and was all straight forward.
Yeah, it's well serviced so no problem there.

Think damp may be affecting something as its sometimes a bitch when starting from cold if we've had a lot of rain and it hasn't been used for a day or two.
Tbh, it's done that every winter I've had it, but only now and again, it's not a major issue.
Just thought I'd chuck a set of leads on to rule that put because I couldn't remember if I put new leads on when I got the plugs done last (about 8k ago).
I know the MAF is reading a little high, but not enough to chuck out any fault codes. Gonna replace it anyway because they're a common problem on this model.
Any ideas what to do after that?

Thanks for pics Paulo, I got round to doing it today and it was simples!

 

Easy, pay someone to do it for ya

 

Love the sound of subarus

 

When you say it's a bitch, How exactly does it react Ellie?

Could potentially be a number of things. Faulty coolant temp sensor can effect cold starts, when they fail they usually make the ecu think the car is hot and it won't call for the cold start routine.

Compression problems (worse case scenario) When they're losing compression from something like burnt exhaust valves not seating the symptoms usually extend to once it's actually started the car will be a bugger to drive until it warms up, ie pulling away from junctions etc the car will hold back and bog down. Also the engine will generally run a bit shakey which will be even worse when cold.

Battery. Even though it might seem ok, if it's not really good and not turning fast enough it'll cause probs, again exagerated by the cold weather. Know anybody that can perform a drop test on the battery?

It's also worth not trying to start it too fast. Turn the key to the ign on position so you hear the fuel pump prime and stop, then maybe turn off and onto ign on again and hear it prime. Then try starting.

Do you know what plugs they used? Was it someone that knows imprezas? Should be NGK PFR6B's

Personally if it was mine and the battery wasn't turning her over really fast, I'd change that. Then you could try a coolant sensor if that doesn't sort it.

It's worth changing the MAF on these cars anyway, the original 99/00 ones were pretty fragile.

 

Thanks for the info James.

When it's rained heavily and the car hasn't been used for >24hrs then it struggles to start. I always wait for the fuel pump to prime before starting it anyway. When I turn the key it turns over fine but it just doesn't spark. If it does, even if I pressed the accelerator it can cut out pretty quick or will stall.
Tbh, it does exactly what you described with the compression thing, pulling off from junctions is difficult because it just feels bogged down. Few miles up the road and it's fine.

Can't remember which spark plugs I bought. Think they were ngk, and my mate fitted them. He does know what he's doing though!!

Yeah, gonna replace the MAF, because now and again it'll hesitate under hard acceleration or pulling off from low revs.

It did have a diagnostic done a little while ago for the hesitating and it didnt show any faults, but was told the MAF was reading 4. They said they wouldn't usually suggest changing it until it was about 7/8.

I'm not massively bothered yet (though that compression thing is worrying), it's runs great and never gives me any major problems *touch wood*!!

What's a drop test? Might get a new battery anyway.

 

a scoosh of wd-40 in the leads before u plug them onto the coil helps keep the damp out.

 

If it's acting like that I'd get a leak down test done before wasting money on MAF's or sensors, especially as nothing was found via diagnostic. Wouldn't be surprised if it's leaking compression through the exhaust valve seat.

A drop test on the battery is just a test that adds load (usually with a device with like a mini elctric heater element inside) to draw lots of current from the battery. It shows up if the battery drops too much under that load, sort of simulating the cranking of the starter.

But if you say the battery turns fine and you've got problems with it until it warms up then I wouldn't bother with the battery.

If you're lucky it'll be a coolant sensor. But I'd go leak down first. At least if it's fine you can have a bit of peace of mind then get the bits sorted, otherwise you could potentially be chucking away a few hundred chasing your tail.

 

Ok cool thanks for that.

I nipped out this evening, it hadnt moved since Friday, it's pissed down today and had started freezing tonight, and it was absolutely perfect. No missing, no getting bogged down when pulling off, and no hesitating.
I'm not getting excited because nothing is ever that simple for me, but I'm pretty impressed. It can't be that straight forward!

Ill have a look at that leak down thingy next if it does it again.

 

Bloody hell, just read what a leak down a) involves and b)what it might reveal!!!!
Actually, think it was your reply to someone on scoobynet last year that I've just been reading.
Are them exhaust valve thingies easy to be replaced?
Ill be pissed off if its compression leakage because its totally standard, never messed with, and never given me any hassel.
I did have the lambda replaced last year because it was fucked and emissions were through the roof. That settled a lot of its hesitancy under hard acceleration, but could that have affected exhaust valves or anything to do with that sorta stuff?
My understanding of how engines work does not stretch further than about this point lol!!

And, even the coolant temp sensor is a pain in the arse to change from what I quickly read.

Grrr!!

 

If your exhaust valves are faulty that will mean engine out job to take the heads off.

 

Oh bollocks.

It ran sweet as anything today. Did about 45 miles and its not missed a beat.
Fingers crossed this isn't a false sense of security!

 

Was it damp where you live today Elle.

 

Ok Ellie, well don't pannick yet.

I wouldn't expect a sudden perfect running car if it has compression issues, so that's hopefully a good sign.

The coolant sensor is pretty easy to change FWIW. But...

I think it might be worth an hours labour at an Impreza specialist though.

 

Glenn, not a lot today, but it was yesterday and last night.

James- cool, thank you. Won't panic yet then, and if it ever needs a coolant sensor ill take it in

 

I was about to say, standard apart from the massive SSQV in the top right corner?

 

Also bad for water getting into multi plugs behind battery if the covers under vents have been removed. Had that problem with one before and plugs got soaked whenever rained.