Series 2 uprated rad
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Yeah after checking the HG and sending the head away to be checked and some corrosion repaired it still cruises at 100c+. Tbh getting tired of it now, so its in the garage and can stay there till i can be arsed with it lol
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Mine cruises at over 100c, and on a hot day i saw cruise of 108c... Head gasket was showing signs of corrosion n weeping, so ive changed that had the head repaired and ported at the same time n its still running hot.
I'm gonna do a coolant flush as the water ways r very limescaled up, then im gonna try a diff rad. If that don't cure it, its being broken up. I can't warrant spending the money on it and tbh im fed up with not being able to enjoy it, constantly watching the temp gauge etc.
I'm gonna do a coolant flush as the water ways r very limescaled up, then im gonna try a diff rad. If that don't cure it, its being broken up. I can't warrant spending the money on it and tbh im fed up with not being able to enjoy it, constantly watching the temp gauge etc.
yeah my mocal gauge goes off the scale at 110c when I stop and turn off then comes down again after a while.dont break it fella its too good for that.just drive it in cooler temps lol.im sure theres people who also suffer in hot weather
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Im not convinced waterless coolant will lower running temps...
There must be an obvious easy fix as they dont run this hot from factory!?
Altho they dont have front mounts on from factory!
There must be an obvious easy fix as they dont run this hot from factory!?
Altho they dont have front mounts on from factory!
I was thinking of xr3i/diesel rad with single pass intercooler? I've been looking at them and the rad will bolt in and it covers the full front end so bigger rad and no big gap at the side for air to get through. just a case of getting the intercooler pipes round to the engine.
Also have you seen that company do a S1 rad with a cover on the back with the fan in it? will that fit?
I was telling you at ford fair about waterless coolant mate and your right it doesn't stop high temps but very good for not putting parts under pressure. am running it in mine.
Also have you seen that company do a S1 rad with a cover on the back with the fan in it? will that fit?
I was telling you at ford fair about waterless coolant mate and your right it doesn't stop high temps but very good for not putting parts under pressure. am running it in mine.
Years ago I had a grs front mount and ally rad on mine. Graham fitted 2 rails on the rad so the fans could be mounted. Was fun fitting had to move the alternator right back against the block to make it all fit, updated mounts to hold the engine in place to stop the turbo hitting the rad
Had twin fans located on the rad , was a very tight fit but didn't seem to have any major issues.
Had a charge cooler before that and it was not good in any way. Air charge temps rose stupidly high whilst stationary and also you get to a saturation point where the coolant will not cool any further.
BUT I did drill a couple of 2 mm holes through the stat so water constantly flowed round the system. Was running approx 220 bhp at the time.
What temp thermostat you got fitted atm ?
Had twin fans located on the rad , was a very tight fit but didn't seem to have any major issues.
Had a charge cooler before that and it was not good in any way. Air charge temps rose stupidly high whilst stationary and also you get to a saturation point where the coolant will not cool any further.
BUT I did drill a couple of 2 mm holes through the stat so water constantly flowed round the system. Was running approx 220 bhp at the time.
What temp thermostat you got fitted atm ?
Last edited by Eagle; Oct 7, 2013 at 05:48 PM.
on an old rst of mine i fitted a airtec rad and fmic and had hot running issues and tryed all sorts too cool it
i found with the alloy rads i can only get the car too a safe level after buying the msd uprated fan switch they used too sell along with the 82 degree thermostat, i tried all manor of things including genuine ford switchs/sensors ect and made no difference untill i got the msd bits, they for some reason only worked well with the alloy rad, as i fitted them too a car with stock rad and it seemed the same???
what thermostat and what fan switch do you have fitted?
and where are the fans mounted? i think they work better mounted too the rad and not the cooler (from personal experience)
i found with the alloy rads i can only get the car too a safe level after buying the msd uprated fan switch they used too sell along with the 82 degree thermostat, i tried all manor of things including genuine ford switchs/sensors ect and made no difference untill i got the msd bits, they for some reason only worked well with the alloy rad, as i fitted them too a car with stock rad and it seemed the same???
what thermostat and what fan switch do you have fitted?
and where are the fans mounted? i think they work better mounted too the rad and not the cooler (from personal experience)
Last edited by rsmark86; Oct 10, 2013 at 05:37 AM.
That was a bit 'tongue in cheek' of me as I know it's not really practical for everyone to do so. My set up for example would not fit a standard car at all. As I've said previously on these threads, I had no hot running problems on mine with a GRS with Kenlowes on the front and a standard Ford radiator. The car was even running lean, so engine was hotter than normal and stuck in traffic at Ford Fair 09 and the temps were fine. Fans kicked in then shut off, then kicked in, shut off and the temp gauge hardly rose above half way. The only time I did have cooling issues was when I tried to bodge a FRST GRS rad on the ERST and it was too big leaving a gap between the rad and cooler for air to be forced out. The two need to be TIGHT together. Have you got any pictures of how yours are fitted?
Even when I had a standard rad I moved it forward of its standard mounting point to get it to sit closer to the GRS.
Even when I had a standard rad I moved it forward of its standard mounting point to get it to sit closer to the GRS.
Ok, radical thought how about putting something around the gap between the rad and intercooler to force any air through the rad rather than letting it get pushed out of the sides ?
a slither of high density foam is what you need so that it acts as a seal between the rad and intercooler. gaps are no good as the airflow takes the path of least resistance which ISNT through the rad if there are any gaps.you can have the best cooling equipment in the world but it will ony be efficient if its fitted in such a way that allows it to be efficient
rog, have you defintly eliminated head gasket/water pump condition and that the head isn't cracked? id be looking at a blocakage/severe air pocket or a tired water pump.
rog, have you defintly eliminated head gasket/water pump condition and that the head isn't cracked? id be looking at a blocakage/severe air pocket or a tired water pump.
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Water pump is fairly new, gonna try a replacement, heads just been checked n new hg.
Ive tried the rad and ic literally touching with foam between to seal them.
Ive tried the rad and ic literally touching with foam between to seal them.
if the temps are as normal without that particular front mount then here lies your problem. is your intercooler in decent nick? bent fins at the back will cause problems. or maybe its a badly designed cooler. if the fins a too dense it will act the same as bent fins while its up against the rad. although the air is forced through the cooler then rad, the rad will still act as a restriction if the cooler is already having difficulty in pushing air through the fins. its a shot in the dark but id definitely look at trying another cooler and inspecting yours for damaged fins. also compare the core/fin spacing next to another decent fmic (rad tec or grs) what make is your intercooler?
so i saw a pic of someone else who had the same idea as me and that was too make air ducts to fill the front panel and force the airflow into the rad?
is there much space around your rad for this too happen?
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No, rad an IC sealed together... Ive now got the vans between the rad and ic, no different.
Ive tried a radtec front mount and an airtec single pass... Same issue with both!
Im thinking a universal ic mounted lower down the rad too, altho routing pipework is gonna be tricky!
Ive tried a radtec front mount and an airtec single pass... Same issue with both!
Im thinking a universal ic mounted lower down the rad too, altho routing pipework is gonna be tricky!
Anythings worth a try mate
Bonnet vents?
Bonnet spacers ?
Check fans are spinning the correct way, seen it a few times where people wire them up the wrong way round
I know it sounds stupid but I'm one of them people that's done it lol
Bonnet vents?
Bonnet spacers ?
Check fans are spinning the correct way, seen it a few times where people wire them up the wrong way round
I know it sounds stupid but I'm one of them people that's done it lol
No, rad an IC sealed together... Ive now got the vans between the rad and ic, no different.
Ive tried a radtec front mount and an airtec single pass... Same issue with both!
Im thinking a universal ic mounted lower down the rad too, altho routing pipework is gonna be tricky!
Ive tried a radtec front mount and an airtec single pass... Same issue with both!
Im thinking a universal ic mounted lower down the rad too, altho routing pipework is gonna be tricky!
I had similar issues when I fitted a GRS with twin fans to my S2 track car, tried MSD fan switch, 72 deg stat, cut front bumper, bonnet on rear raisers and foam packing between rad and IC, also ran a turbo pre-rad and water wetter. The fans were running nearly all the time and took ages to cool the engine.
After 5 mins on track the water temp was about 110 and oil temp even higher (the hotter water had a big impact on my oil temp and pressure (dropped by 15 psi).
I ditched the front mount and went back to std IC and every went back to normal (85 deg), the fans now only run when stuck in traffic or when coming off the track.
ACTs may be back up to 50 odd deg (as apposed to 30 with GRS) but can has withstood 5 yrs of tracking at that temp without any probelms.
After 5 mins on track the water temp was about 110 and oil temp even higher (the hotter water had a big impact on my oil temp and pressure (dropped by 15 psi).
I ditched the front mount and went back to std IC and every went back to normal (85 deg), the fans now only run when stuck in traffic or when coming off the track.
ACTs may be back up to 50 odd deg (as apposed to 30 with GRS) but can has withstood 5 yrs of tracking at that temp without any probelms.






