Notice the 2 Dump Valves.....only the one on the hose is connected but could I be losing power by the other one just being there?

 

probably yes as the vacum isn't shutting the one not connected

remove and put a blanking plug in

 

Plug them both off mate

And clean that fookin engine bay you tramp

 

air leaks r us what boost r u running?

 

I have just put a post up for a swap for a standard crossover pipe with mine and as soon as I can I will get a new hose with no hole for a dump valve!

Tiff.....As soon as karl has done his magic and told me what needs doing I will get it all done and spend a day with some of this shit my mum got off QVC! You know the stuff that makes 2p's look like new?

 

Thats what I thought....about 15psi!

 

 

Karl wont be doing this in your engine bay then, as he will get covered in Shite

 

ciltit bang does it work?

 

New leads, rotor arm and cap probably wouldn't go amiss either.

 

 

Can you see them Bill through all the shite

 

Before I take it to Karl I will be giving it a good old service (Plugs, Leags, Rotor Arm and Cap, fuel and oil filters)

Will give the engine a good old jet wash to get all the shite off at the same time also

Im not on abou the dirtyness though, just wanna know if that gay chavvy blue fookin dump valve is making my car slow and gash before I burn it!

 

I will keep an eye out for this post soon then

"Just Jet-washed my engine , now it wont start-HELP"

 

With no boost pressure applied to the control port to hold it shut, there is a good chance that boost pressure will be lifting the diaphragm and leaking boost.

 

In event of getting water in engine leave for four hours to dry

 

As said above, junk both DV's they're not required on an RST, and mainly cause trouble (air leaks), imo.

So in answer to your question: YES! lol

But boggin plug leads can cause ignition problems too, so wasn't mentioning those for cosmetic reasons

 

You can do it if you want?

So if I fook both of those sneeze machines off it should run better? In simple terms?

 

YES

Is that simple enough for you

 

I know fook all about engines (especially turbos) but if I can ever repay the favour with dodgy films with naked ladies or black market albums then I will my friend!

Thanks

"Goes to find a hacksaw to take them off"

 

r you sure thats not a porn film

 

Just to check why don't you remove the one on the hose, and temporarily blank it with a 1" bit of broom handle - then put the vacuum pipe on the charge carrier one!! see if you get the power back!!

 

dont need a new pipe ...



get a broom handle and chop a bit off.. jubilee clip and your done much cheaper

see 2 of us recomend it .. nothing to beat a broom handle

or spend 10 quid odd for a shiny bit of ally that does the same ...

 

Thats,what I said!!!!!

NOT for permanent use, or even let anyone see it like it!!

 

i think the more pipe work the chance of air leaks go's up,amal valves packing up unstable boost melted pistons happy days

 

Yea, remove one that aint connected, would cause a few probs! lol and clean ur fooking bay! errr

 

i would put it back to standand with all new samco hoses, silcon spray all conection's electrick's then truck wash or ciltit bang(not porn)spray then steam clean then rolling road emissions tune up full heath,Check cambelt history and put cover back!!!!!

 

The new crossover pipe minus gay sneeze valve should be here tommorow!

That wil be going on ASAP and I am giving it a full service at the weekend which is when I will clean the engine bay up

Thanks for your help guys!

 

http://www2.b3ta.com/images/rob/luck...gsensation.wmv

 

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