View Poll Results: Would you buy a Series 1 without any history?
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Would you buy a Series 1 without any history?
Thread Starter
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From: Local, when i'm home...
As above, would you buy a Series 1 without any history? I'm thinking of looking at one which has got no old MOT's or anything.
Think its been totally rebuilt recently to a decent spec by the look of things, and is up for aorund the 2.5k mark?
Think the reg is B99 JRG or something like that?
Thanks
Dan.
BTW, I beleive he has the logbook, but is there any other way of telling if its genuine or not?
Think its been totally rebuilt recently to a decent spec by the look of things, and is up for aorund the 2.5k mark?
Think the reg is B99 JRG or something like that?
Thanks
Dan.
BTW, I beleive he has the logbook, but is there any other way of telling if its genuine or not?
I would. If it's a minter it's cheap at 2.5K. Just make sure it's an original, and not a rebodied XR3i etc.
Or keep searching (like I did!). The perfect one's are out there, but they are expensive and hard to find!
Or keep searching (like I did!). The perfect one's are out there, but they are expensive and hard to find!
My RAC
Vehicle data check results
Sorry, no matching registration number found
As for weather or not I'd buy it, if a mechanic and someone in the bodywork trade said it was fine, then yeah, I'd buy it, providing it also passed a hpi check
Vehicle data check results
Sorry, no matching registration number found
As for weather or not I'd buy it, if a mechanic and someone in the bodywork trade said it was fine, then yeah, I'd buy it, providing it also passed a hpi check
Thread Starter
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From: Local, when i'm home...
Down on the South Coast mate, just outside Poole & Bournemouth
Dan, my Dad has 25yrs+ experience in the Motor Trade from owning his own business including Welding, Spraying, All MOT work etc etc so he will defo be coming with me if I got to look at it, whether he likes it or not!
How did you do the HPI check btw!
Dan, my Dad has 25yrs+ experience in the Motor Trade from owning his own business including Welding, Spraying, All MOT work etc etc so he will defo be coming with me if I got to look at it, whether he likes it or not!
How did you do the HPI check btw!
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Be carefull matey, of it, 2.5k, is a bit cheap, normally shed terriortry for that money. if ya view it check all the seams and panels on it to make sure they are right and not bodged.
Thread Starter
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From: Local, when i'm home...
Its been rebuilt since last summer Mikey so should be ok, but than thats only theoretically!
(sp)
Its a bloody long way away too, i'm in Dorset and its in Staffordshire!
Its a bloody long way away too, i'm in Dorset and its in Staffordshire!
Thread Starter
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From: Local, when i'm home...
I'm not convinced about it at the mo mate for some reason, so nothing booked
Have you looked at the thread mate, what do you think? Bearing in mind its now up for 2.3k
Have you looked at the thread mate, what do you think? Bearing in mind its now up for 2.3k
Thread Starter
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From: Local, when i'm home...
Well thing is mate anything could have happened to the paperwork really, I think the current owner said he didn't get any from the guy he bought the car off!
Well as MikeyXR2i said above, be carefull at that price. Generally cars around there are junkers, you need to invest the money now to get a decent car. Bear in mind that these cars are 20 years old - when was the last time you saw a 20 year old car on the roads....
If you don't spend it now, you'll spend it restoring it.....
I bought the best I could find, and my advice to anybody looking at buying a classic is to buy the best you can find.
It's worth going and taking a look, but it's a heck of a drive for you. I'd keep looking, maybe up your budget a little to get a nice example.....
If you don't spend it now, you'll spend it restoring it.....
I bought the best I could find, and my advice to anybody looking at buying a classic is to buy the best you can find.
It's worth going and taking a look, but it's a heck of a drive for you. I'd keep looking, maybe up your budget a little to get a nice example.....
if your unsure about the car get it independantly checked thats what i did with mine, i went from aberdeen to devon to get mine,. i got a company called vcs to inspect it (the rac/aa wouldn,t do it due to age/modified), they were very good and detailed with the report
Vehicle Condition Specialists can be contacted by:
Phone08700 131025
Fax 01409 221904
E-Mail info@go-vcs.co.uk
Post
North Park
Ashwater
Beaworthy
Devon
EX21 5UR
as for service/mot doesn,t really mean much, a thrashed car can have history as can a mint
cood luck and may the force be with you
Vehicle Condition Specialists can be contacted by:
Phone08700 131025
Fax 01409 221904
E-Mail info@go-vcs.co.uk
Post
North Park
Ashwater
Beaworthy
Devon
EX21 5UR
as for service/mot doesn,t really mean much, a thrashed car can have history as can a mint
cood luck and may the force be with you
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From: Local, when i'm home...
as for service/mot doesn,t really mean much, a thrashed car can have history as can a mint
Thread Starter
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From: Local, when i'm home...
Are there any other ways of identifying it being an original, like it having a specific start to the VIN numbers or something like that, such as RS500 and the like?
just a short bit
send me you e-mail addy and i will forward other bits and bobs
CHECK THE V5 CERTIFICATE AGAINST THE BLOKE WHO IS SELLING THE CAR AND THE ADDRESS WHERE U ARE VIEWING THE CAR ASK TO SEE SOME ID AS WELL ON THE V5 CERT IS A CHASSIS NUMBER IT SHOULD START WFOBXX??????????? CHECK THIS NUMBER AGAINST THE VIN PLATE ON THE FRONT PANEL AS U LIFT THE BONNET UP CHECK FOR TAMPERING DODGE POP RIVETS ETC . ALSO AGAINST THE NUMBER ON THE DRIVERS FLOOR PAN TO THE RIGHT OH THE DRIVERS SEAT LIFT UP THE CARPET AND THE NUMBER IS STAMPED IN THE FLOOR PAN CAHECK AROUND THIS AREA VERY CAREFULLY FOR WELDING AND TAMPERING IF YOU CAN LIFT UP THE CARPET AND MAKE SURE A SMALL SECTION HASENT JUST BEEN STUCK DOWN WITH GLUE OR SUMUT SEEN THAT BEFORE!!!! # IF THERES ANY DOUBT ON THIS SUBJECT WALK# AWAY ALSO CHECK THE ENGINE NUMBER SHOULD BE STAMPED ON A SMALL PIECE OF THE ENGINE BLOCK TOP LEFT HAND SIDE AS YOU VIEW IT IF DIFFERENT ASK WHY?IS ALSO CAST ON THE BLOCK BUT ITS DIFFICULT TO SEE BEHIND THE TURBO
send me you e-mail addy and i will forward other bits and bobs
CHECK THE V5 CERTIFICATE AGAINST THE BLOKE WHO IS SELLING THE CAR AND THE ADDRESS WHERE U ARE VIEWING THE CAR ASK TO SEE SOME ID AS WELL ON THE V5 CERT IS A CHASSIS NUMBER IT SHOULD START WFOBXX??????????? CHECK THIS NUMBER AGAINST THE VIN PLATE ON THE FRONT PANEL AS U LIFT THE BONNET UP CHECK FOR TAMPERING DODGE POP RIVETS ETC . ALSO AGAINST THE NUMBER ON THE DRIVERS FLOOR PAN TO THE RIGHT OH THE DRIVERS SEAT LIFT UP THE CARPET AND THE NUMBER IS STAMPED IN THE FLOOR PAN CAHECK AROUND THIS AREA VERY CAREFULLY FOR WELDING AND TAMPERING IF YOU CAN LIFT UP THE CARPET AND MAKE SURE A SMALL SECTION HASENT JUST BEEN STUCK DOWN WITH GLUE OR SUMUT SEEN THAT BEFORE!!!! # IF THERES ANY DOUBT ON THIS SUBJECT WALK# AWAY ALSO CHECK THE ENGINE NUMBER SHOULD BE STAMPED ON A SMALL PIECE OF THE ENGINE BLOCK TOP LEFT HAND SIDE AS YOU VIEW IT IF DIFFERENT ASK WHY?IS ALSO CAST ON THE BLOCK BUT ITS DIFFICULT TO SEE BEHIND THE TURBO
phone the guy up and ask for the vin number and type it in to the decoder link below
http://www.btinternet.com/~madmole/vindecoder.html
http://www.btinternet.com/~madmole/vindecoder.html
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