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ST170 Clutch and flywheel

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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 01:02 PM
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Default ST170 Clutch and flywheel

So although my clutch and flywheel seem ok (touch wood), my car has done 117,000 and I feel as I want to tune the car I would also like to uprate this.

Firstly I want to get the car as close to 170bhp as I can by doing the usual things, like filters, plugs etc.. But I would like the car to get close to 200bhp.. through exhaust, intake, injectors remap etc...

So a clutch and flywheel upgrade is needed.. has anyone here done this to the 170 ? if so what did you fit, and what options are out there ?

Cheers
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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 07:11 PM
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Central Florida Motor Sport or TTV, i had a bad experience with TTV though so wont reccomend them.
You wont see 200 without individual throttle bodies. Mine made 187bhp with a stage 3 clutch, dreamscience map, mongoose cat back, K&N typhoon, underdrive pullies and a vernier cam retarding the exhaust cam 8degrees
The next realistic step for me would have been individual throttle bodies but i probably would have needed a new cam too and with the VVT they are tricky to time.
Problem going the Naturally Aspirated route is that the power comes with an increase in revs, but the standard oil pump does not like revs so your faced with a weakness from the get go, dry sump is the key but VERY expensive indeed

Last edited by Sp3no; Nov 17, 2012 at 07:15 PM.
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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Sp3no
Central Florida Motor Sport or TTV, i had a bad experience with TTV though so wont reccomend them.
You wont see 200 without individual throttle bodies. Mine made 187bhp with a stage 3 clutch, dreamscience map, mongoose cat back, K&N typhoon, underdrive pullies and a vernier cam retarding the exhaust cam 8degrees
The next realistic step for me would have been individual throttle bodies but i probably would have needed a new cam too and with the VVT they are tricky to time.
Problem going the Naturally Aspirated route is that the power comes with an increase in revs, but the standard oil pump does not like revs so your faced with a weakness from the get go, dry sump is the key but VERY expensive indeed

hi. are the underdrive pulleys worth the expense?? and also the exhaust vernier??
iv prob read all the old threads so know all you mods and know you usually rate the flywheel as best mod but i doubt id go down that route. pulleys and vernier are only mods i would stretch the budget to. already got filter though.

thanks
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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 09:26 PM
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Thanks for all the information, sounds like you really know your stuff

187bhp sounds good to me..
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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 11:45 PM
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The ST170 has a dual mass flywheel, a cost- effective way of replacing this would be to wait until you get trouble with this, then replace the DMF with a solid flywheel (which can be lightened and balanced) and a stronger clutch with a higher clamping force, an organic clutch, - best to get one with a sprung plate if you are fitting a solid flywheel - for more "give"

Underdrive pulleys can give surprising (good) results, but can have drawbacks like running the ancillaries too slowly (alternator waterpump etc)

On my project car (similar to the ST170) i removed the AC system, the pump alone weighed 7kgs, the AC pump pully weighed 1.2kgs this always turns with the engine even when the AC is off, its like taking 1.2 kgs off the flywheel

I planned an underdrive pully but fitted an electric waterpump instead, this completely removes the load/ weight off the engine, the electric pump works on demand, so th engine warms up quicker/ is cooled better, the pump can be set to run after the engine is stopped, if required, it worked so well i removed the fan, to further reduce weight

Together, the AC and waterpump could be worth 10Hp or more
with the AC & waterpump removed, no underdrive pully was required, so the other ancillaries ran at normal speed, so the power steering and alternator worked as normal, without problems

I managed to strip about 150kgs out of my car, this made a big, big difference, not just in acceleration, but on the brakes and cornering too - its hard to get "more power" out of many cars - like the ST170 - and Ford had to work hard to get 170Hp out of a NA 2L, leaving it NA you are liable to gain power at the top of the rev range, and its not going to be a LOT more power - as others have indicated
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 12:23 PM
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Thanks very much again for all the info.. In the few weeks I have owned it I have never used the Air Con, so that's a good idea straight away.
I will also do some more reading on the water pump.. as I have never heard of that.

Long term plans is to do a semi strip of the interior, i.e. rear seats etc as again, I never take anyone other than the gf in it. If we take the dog we use her Saxo..

Lot's of good idea coming in
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by PaulinhoT
Thanks very much again for all the info.. In the few weeks I have owned it I have never used the Air Con, so that's a good idea straight away.
It is winter might regret removing it when its 35deg in the summer.

Although i shouldnt say anything ive had mine since June and never used the AC because it needs gassing
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Underdog ST170
hi. are the underdrive pulleys worth the expense?? and also the exhaust vernier??
iv prob read all the old threads so know all you mods and know you usually rate the flywheel as best mod but i doubt id go down that route. pulleys and vernier are only mods i would stretch the budget to. already got filter though.

thanks
Underdrive pullies are a bit of a sore subject on these Engines. I never had a problem but some belive that removing the standard harmonic crank pully can cause the crank to flex, thus shattering the oil pump gears and killing the whole engine. I used to drive my ST170 how they were meant to be driven and with an oil and filter change every 3000miles never ever had a problem. Most reliable car i owned.
These wont give you more power but will add to the effect of a lightened fly wheel by removing rotational mass from the engine. They will and do allow the engine speed to increase quicker, but its only noticable in 1st 2nd, the gains from a lightened fly and pullies will not be noticed past 3rd gear. It certainly helps your 0-60, i could pull sub 7 second 0-60 times all day long.
I had a CFM short shifter which was absolutely awesome too, made the gear change so quick and short, helping 0-60 times of course and if you remove the counter weight from the linkage too it makes for a better gear change.
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