Escort mk6 ghia 1.8 16v zetec cooling fan problem
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Virgin
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Escort mk6 ghia 1.8 16v zetec cooling fan problem
Just lost the use of rad. cooling fan on my mk6 escort ghia, causing the engine to overheat.
A friend has tried to bybass the tstat, to run the fan permanently but claims the fan motor may be broken because it causes a short when the fan starts to turn.
He cut into a cable near the n/s headlight and made a bridge to the battery, but the improvised "internal fuse" connected through the bridge kept tripping a few seconds after the fan began spinning.
if i need to replace the fan, can i just change the motor bit in the
middle of the assembly, or does the whole fan assembly with the frame and blades need to be dismantled ? Not sure if anything else could cause
this.
Any ideas or other suggestions as to why this would be would be welcomed.
A friend has tried to bybass the tstat, to run the fan permanently but claims the fan motor may be broken because it causes a short when the fan starts to turn.
He cut into a cable near the n/s headlight and made a bridge to the battery, but the improvised "internal fuse" connected through the bridge kept tripping a few seconds after the fan began spinning.
if i need to replace the fan, can i just change the motor bit in the
middle of the assembly, or does the whole fan assembly with the frame and blades need to be dismantled ? Not sure if anything else could cause
this.
Any ideas or other suggestions as to why this would be would be welcomed.
Last edited by spud1962; Aug 25, 2012 at 04:11 PM.
LOL your lucky he didn't cause other damage, the fans cannot be powered directly due to the power they draw, hence why a relay is used.
It depends, the fan motor may be partially seized, hence causing the fuse to blow, but with with the "Bridge" did he use all new wiring or simply splice into the existing wiring, as it could be a wiring problem? Cutting into the headlight wiring was a bad idea tbh!
Martin
It depends, the fan motor may be partially seized, hence causing the fuse to blow, but with with the "Bridge" did he use all new wiring or simply splice into the existing wiring, as it could be a wiring problem? Cutting into the headlight wiring was a bad idea tbh!
Martin
Thread Starter
Virgin
Joined: Jun 2012
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LOL your lucky he didn't cause other damage, the fans cannot be powered directly due to the power they draw, hence why a relay is used.
It depends, the fan motor may be partially seized, hence causing the fuse to blow, but with with the "Bridge" did he use all new wiring or simply splice into the existing wiring, as it could be a wiring problem? Cutting into the headlight wiring was a bad idea tbh!
Martin
It depends, the fan motor may be partially seized, hence causing the fuse to blow, but with with the "Bridge" did he use all new wiring or simply splice into the existing wiring, as it could be a wiring problem? Cutting into the headlight wiring was a bad idea tbh!
Martin
the air intake near to the nearside headlamp housing (but not he headlamp circuit itself) and ran the bridge
with new wiring directly to the battery. The car's own fuse hasn't blown though, which is why i'm a bit puzzled.
Not sure what else i can check ?
Thread Starter
Virgin
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Does anyone know how to bypass the temperature switch
at the source?
When disconnected from the switch, The loom end has 4 wires. The terminals are marked 1 to 5 with no connection to terminal 2.
if i bridge the switch at this point, surely this will activate the fan?
Not sure how to discover which of the connections will allow the fan
to operate.
Note: If I disconnect the switch - the fan does not operate either.
at the source?
When disconnected from the switch, The loom end has 4 wires. The terminals are marked 1 to 5 with no connection to terminal 2.
if i bridge the switch at this point, surely this will activate the fan?
Not sure how to discover which of the connections will allow the fan
to operate.
Note: If I disconnect the switch - the fan does not operate either.
Last edited by spud1962; Aug 25, 2012 at 08:41 PM. Reason: additional info.
It will be a dual speed fan, hence the four connections, two should activate a slower speed and the other will be full speed.
Yes it will activate the fan's IF the switch is the problem, otherwise no!
I don't know exactly what wires though, a meter would be handy here so you can distinguish the live pins.
But you would only want to do so for testing purposes, else the fans will be on permantely.
Martin
Yes it will activate the fan's IF the switch is the problem, otherwise no!
I don't know exactly what wires though, a meter would be handy here so you can distinguish the live pins.
But you would only want to do so for testing purposes, else the fans will be on permantely.
Martin
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