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Hard pedal but no stopping

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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 05:24 PM
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Default Hard pedal but no stopping

Hi,

you may be aware I'm trying to recommision my Granada and hopefully get an MOT on it too.

Have been running it fine where it has sat (for 6 years). I have done loads of work and slowly, finally getting there. Turned it around today and realised that my excellent brake pedal didn't = excellent brakes good job it was a 3 point turn on my drive.

I have a bias pedal box fitted (no servo) with 335 discs and Monster 4 pots. On the rear I have Cossie 4x4 set up.

I went to this set up as I was cooking standard stuff. This car was a dedicated track car and so chose this direction. I can now recall that the braking effort was always greater than it used to be but once I got heat into the brakes then I could manage.

Now, for a road car this is not acceptable. I have had all 4 corners off the car to check over brakes, bearings and suspension etc and all is good with nothing siezed.

What is a hard pedal and no stopping indicative of? Any ideas maybe from the mk1 / 2 Escort fraternity as they run bias boxes.

I am tempted to go Cossie pump (non ABS) but would like to retain what I have.

I have a .700 front cylinder and a .625 cylinder for the rears. I am running Mintex race pads front and green stuff rears all with braided lines throughout feeding Castrol SRF to the 4 corners.

What say you?
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 06:04 PM
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i always assumed that a cosnada was a cosworth from canada
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 06:56 PM
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Hard pedal and loads of force to stop it is due to no servo assistance i'd have said, unless all or a couple of calipers/pistons are seized (dust seals in the big brakes??)
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by foreigneRS
i always assumed that a cosnada was a cosworth from canada
Lol, its a mk 2 Granada with a Cossie in it.

Originally Posted by vroooom ptssssh
Hard pedal and loads of force to stop it is due to no servo assistance i'd have said, unless all or a couple of calipers/pistons are seized (dust seals in the big brakes??)
No servo and I replicated what was comonly used on other cars with not too disimilar set ups. If it had a sevo and I had the issue I would deffo say its poor assistance. That said I am on a bias set up and should be completely capable of what I need.

Might have to look at the bias bar for bind etc.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 08:08 PM
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non servo assisted brakes do require a hell of a lot of pedal effort to work, imagine trying to compress a brick with your foot lol. you do get used to it eventually tho
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by botters
non servo assisted brakes do require a hell of a lot of pedal effort to work, imagine trying to compress a brick with your foot lol. you do get used to it eventually tho
I remember this when I first did the conversion I was worried about it but I did loads of track days and never once had an issue of not stopping - I need to get brave lol.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 08:57 PM
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I had the same problem on my mk1 escort with pretty much the same spec as you, i installed a remote servo and it cured the problem.
Burton power told me that the .625 were for the front and .700 for the rear, I don't know if that's correct or not now
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 09:17 PM
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With the right sized cylinders non servo brakes should work fine if all in order, i do know from experience that the wrong bore cylinder causes major problems with pedal effort as I used to run a mini with front discs and never changed the master cylinder was a massive difference when I fitted the correct one.before trying to fit a servo take some advice from a brake specialist regards cylinder bore choice.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by daz1968
With the right sized cylinders non servo brakes should work fine if all in order, i do know from experience that the wrong bore cylinder causes major problems with pedal effort as I used to run a mini with front discs and never changed the master cylinder was a massive difference when I fitted the correct one.before trying to fit a servo take some advice from a brake specialist regards cylinder bore choice.
I did that at the time and the general concensus was that the combination I have ended up with was the one to go for.

I would like some improvement but I don't want to be at the stage of having to swap out MC's 'just to see' etc. The fronts were a pig to bleed lol.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 09:40 PM
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take a calliper of the disk & support with a piece of wire and pump the peddle ... should see movement! if not it could be seized. try to rotate a bit to free off. try each side at front to start!
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Brendan
take a calliper of the disk & support with a piece of wire and pump the peddle ... should see movement! if not it could be seized. try to rotate a bit to free off. try each side at front to start!
All free - just had all 4 corners off to give a complete check over etc.
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