Gearbox oil filling advice
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From: Cannock, Staffordshire
Gearbox oil filling advice
I need some advice on filling my new Stage 2 CTS ERST gearbox with oil.
I have never done this before and just wondering whether its just a case of filling it up to its capacity of 3 litres (i think) and thats it.
Any tips or advice will be appreciated.
Andy
I have never done this before and just wondering whether its just a case of filling it up to its capacity of 3 litres (i think) and thats it.
Any tips or advice will be appreciated.
Andy
OK, In my opinion an Oil Syringe makes things quite easy. These are made by people such as 'Draper' and can be bought for under a tenner.
Anyway, when you look at the front of the gearbox, you need to remove the Filling Bung, which is the top one on the front. Fill the gearbox until Oil starts to overflow out of there, then replace the bung. You must make sure the car is level when doing this.
I like to use a syringe, because the oil goes in under a little force which makes sure it gets into all the nooks and crannies.
Some 1 Litre bottles have an extendable nozzle which is fairly easy to use too.
They take around 3.1 Litres.
Personally, I like to run a gearbox in similarly to an engine. i.e. Cover about 200-300 miles, then dump the oil and change it, although this isn't practical with a gearbox that doesn't have a sensible drain-plug. I have had one added to mine on the very lowest point on the bottom. This makes it LOADS easier.
Anyway, when you look at the front of the gearbox, you need to remove the Filling Bung, which is the top one on the front. Fill the gearbox until Oil starts to overflow out of there, then replace the bung. You must make sure the car is level when doing this.
I like to use a syringe, because the oil goes in under a little force which makes sure it gets into all the nooks and crannies.
Some 1 Litre bottles have an extendable nozzle which is fairly easy to use too.
They take around 3.1 Litres.
Personally, I like to run a gearbox in similarly to an engine. i.e. Cover about 200-300 miles, then dump the oil and change it, although this isn't practical with a gearbox that doesn't have a sensible drain-plug. I have had one added to mine on the very lowest point on the bottom. This makes it LOADS easier.
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From: Building a gearbox in Markyate
Firstly: Fill the gearbox to the level described by Christian (or Beccy, not sure...)
Next: Go and have a cup of tea (seriously), then, (after ½ an hour) top up the level again.
Finally: After your first road test, re-check the level again (cold).
You should use a full synthetic 75W/90 gear oil of good reputation (not some shit cheapo gloop that you got down Cost-Cutters)
There is no real running in required with our boxes, other than, I would like to think that you wouldn't rag your engine when cold. Well, provided you've brought your engine to running temperature, your gearbox will have a good circulation of oil about it, and that will be good enough!
Using a full synthetic oil will mean that you shouldn't ever need to change it (there is a nice big magnet in there to catch all the bits of reverse idler you knock off with your over-enthusiastic engagements of reverse gear!!)
Next: Go and have a cup of tea (seriously), then, (after ½ an hour) top up the level again.
Finally: After your first road test, re-check the level again (cold).
You should use a full synthetic 75W/90 gear oil of good reputation (not some shit cheapo gloop that you got down Cost-Cutters)
There is no real running in required with our boxes, other than, I would like to think that you wouldn't rag your engine when cold. Well, provided you've brought your engine to running temperature, your gearbox will have a good circulation of oil about it, and that will be good enough!
Using a full synthetic oil will mean that you shouldn't ever need to change it (there is a nice big magnet in there to catch all the bits of reverse idler you knock off with your over-enthusiastic engagements of reverse gear!!)
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