as per title really whats the best way to run a manual boost controller into the car do i have to run two lines of hose into the car for this if so what sort of hose should i be using?

Cheers

Lewis

 

IMO don't do it, the extra length added by putting it in-car will cause a boost spike when first spooling up and then lag when re-applying the throttle after letting off.

 

Not exactly true mate. Granted there is more pipe to make the boost in but we are only talking a very small pipe which doesn't require much air to fill so lag and boost spiking will be so low you won't notice it.

 

It's 100% true mate, there will be a delay before the actuator responds both opening and closing.
It may be minimal but why would you want to add any?
I suppose more importantly we should be asking why would you need a in-car bleed valve?.... Once the boost is set for your spec level it should not be altered.. If the OP is wanting a high/low setting maybe then a switch on the Amal valve is the way to do it... Winding a bleed valve in and out is a recipe to go to far and melt your engine! lol

 

I agree with what you are saying mate but the effects will be very minimal and you wouldn't notice the delay time. And i totaly agree with why would you want to fit one they are very dangerous. If you want adjustable boost there is a few safer options out there. Its all good winding up the boost but you also need the fuelling to suit otherwise you will melt your pistons and some cases total the whole engine. I would forget about it altogether if i was the op

 

i am interested in the answer to the original question to as my rst is boosting all the way to 25 psi and beyond at the min so i want to put a manual controller in for now to regulate the boost until i get an electronic boost controller put in.

 

at the moment I have a bleed valve fitted by previous owner but once it goes to jano I might get him to set/reconnect the amal up then have some sort of sport switch inside which will adjust my boost from what its set at to around 7 psi plus the fueling will be correct on both stages,on efi can you adjust the boost certain amounts and the ecu will correct fueling?

 

i think i have and amal valve but it doesnt seem to be working at all.

 

PAMDAM I would be more concerned as to why it is boostin to that level because 25psi is a lot and can't be doing your engine and good. Is your wastegate all good. and have you any boost leaks. OP the best way to get it into your car would be the same way you got you boost gauge iside. You just run two pipes from the turbo/actuator and connect them up to your bleed valve job done. If you are unsure I would just let jano sort it as it won't take him 5 minutes and he probably won't charge you for it

 

yeah ive been looking at for the last week trying to eliminate problems. te car is running stage two set up with a hybrib t3 so 20 psi should be the safe limit so at the min im shifting at 10 psi to be safe.
there just seems to be nothing regulating the boost the wastegate seems to be working fine.

 

20psi might be the limit of the turbo but what boost was your car setup with,if you can get it to jano let him check your setup for free

 

Decided to leave it under the bonnet now can't be bothered with the hassle haha

 

amal valve + in car switch is easy enough. nothing wrong with bleed valves except the temptation to meddle causes meltdown and there a bit crude. for x2 stage boost you need a nice toggle switch, some apt wire and connectors (x4) 2 male 2 female. cut the negative side that goe to amal and join the switch in line. the switch will operate the amal so if the switch is not active the actuator dictates boost. if the switch is active (amal on) the amal bleeds off giving more boost. you can also set up the amal to give desired boost using inserts. i used a coupling in the hose to give the reguired boost level rather than nylon inserts as i couldnt find any. its an hours work and much safer than a bleed valve.

 

who is jano? I am new to the forum. I set the turbo on my volvo 850 t5 up my self it works great with an mbc set to 1 bar nice an safe very quick with 250 bhp. but the set up on this rs makes no sense to me and even with the mbc in place the boost goes all the way up.

 

he's a tuner that's cheap and knows these inside out or MSD or NMS but not sure were you are,maybe on the volvo the ecu is detecting more boost and sorting it out,the mfi has fewer setting and the fueling can't really just be messed with unless you understand it

 

I had this on my brother's RST. The chip in the ECU is telling the AMAL valve to bleed off to the desired boost level. If you get a small piece of hose from the comp housing to the actuator that will bypass the AMAL valve and just use the actuator setting.

Lee

 

i had a similiar problem with a bleed valve. in the end used the amal valve instead with no problem. just a thought, try changing the hoses that run from the hsg/bleed valve/actuator. a split here will cause overboosting.