Pressure in header tank
Hi every time I take the s2 Rs out when I stop anywhere there's always a build up of pressure in the header tank let the cap off and hear bubbling in the system and water+air comes out of the header tank it's just been built new water pump and thermostat any ideas
Cheers
Cheers
Maybe but if it's air lock I'm sure it would have cleared by now the headgasket is new aswell and no oil/water mixing etc this myt sound weird but the bolts on the thermostat needed tightening the other day and 2day I could get a quarter of a turn on each 1 so thinking thery myt b wrking loose and drawing in air maybe
Payne headgasket normal driving around temp never goes above m on the gauge but 2day in traffic went to o on gauge but was a warm day 2day it's got alloy rads turbo cooler and twin fans
has it been left to cool before being switched off ? when its immediately switched off the water will stop circulating round and a hot turbo will boil the water and expand causing the bubbling.
might be the case or something more serious
might be the case or something more serious
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From: Driving Cadillac's in my dreams...
is it a metal header tank or plastic?
I had a bailey one, kept doing this, changed the cap and all was well, either way might be worth checking it to be sure.
Check what i said above re stat..and perhaps give it a bleed again to be sure, if still doing it then its looking like a possible HG prob.
I did have a standard plastic 1 and changed it for a second hand Bailey where can ya get new caps for 1 I did email Bailey themselves but herd nothing back also u can only feel the bubbling in the top hose when it's turned off if that makes sense
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From: Driving Cadillac's in my dreams...
I got mine direct from them, cost Ł17:54 back in 09!!

Its kept under my bed for safety, not risking it out in public at that price

Like has been suggested above fella, could be the turbo is boiling the coolant up, HG, stat, Matrix blocked, a sensor down..........................
If your water/freeze mix are good and to spec and everything else is working as should eg fans coming in early enough..................
then its sounding praps the worst case of a maybe a crack somewhere..
Or simply not enough AIR getting to the motor/rad to generally cool the ambience of the bay..thus heatsoak into the motor/coolant.
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had a play today new gasket on thermotst housing lock tight on bolts checked all pipes where tight went for a drive pulled up wiv car running cap of no pressure what so ever but i turned the engine of wiv cap still off and wait around 2-3 mins then bubbles start in top hose and lasts for around 5mins then settles been for a few journeys and same every time cant b headgasket else the pressure would b there all the time surly
any ideas
any ideas
Yeah I'll give it ago or buy a new 1 there only Ł30ish it's realy weird no pressure at all when it's running but as soon as you turn it off it starts the bubble and pressurise although it's running slightly hotter than It used to on the gauge especially if stop in traffic it starts to climb realy can't make out what's goin on
Guna do compression test and sniff test to try rule out headgasket not sure what else to try even my bro the mechanic has never known it or figure out what it could b doin my head in
probably the header tank cap. i noticed mine used to bubble and sptted that someone had tried to get a better seal with silicone.
i still have that same cap but recently changed to an 82 thermostat and once id got the air out the system it hasnt done it. my t'stat housing bolts were loose aswell wich allows air into the system and quickly pressurises.
a dab of silicone over the head bolts is an added safetly measure along with loctite. a trick from racing were lockwire is unable to be implemented due to access.
are your fans right up front or aft intercooler (between ic and rad) or behind the rad? atm my fan is in front of the ic and is nigh on useless. going to mount a slim one between rad &/i/cooler
i still have that same cap but recently changed to an 82 thermostat and once id got the air out the system it hasnt done it. my t'stat housing bolts were loose aswell wich allows air into the system and quickly pressurises.
a dab of silicone over the head bolts is an added safetly measure along with loctite. a trick from racing were lockwire is unable to be implemented due to access.
are your fans right up front or aft intercooler (between ic and rad) or behind the rad? atm my fan is in front of the ic and is nigh on useless. going to mount a slim one between rad &/i/cooler
Iv been trying to get hold of Bailey motorsport for new cap no luck as yet I'm thinking of removing the thermostat iv got twin fans on it there connected to the alloy rad in front of rad but behind the inter cooler
Are you sure it isn't just the turbo siphon cooling?
I've heard before that when you switch off the turbo boils the water inside it which causes enough pressure in the top water connection to force cooler water into the bottom of it creating its own flow of cooler water. if plumbed in correctly its supposedly designed to cool the turbo until it reaches a more comfortable (non boiling) temperature, without the need for a pump or anything.
I've heard before that when you switch off the turbo boils the water inside it which causes enough pressure in the top water connection to force cooler water into the bottom of it creating its own flow of cooler water. if plumbed in correctly its supposedly designed to cool the turbo until it reaches a more comfortable (non boiling) temperature, without the need for a pump or anything.
Some1 else mentioned that and some cossies do it but I no a couple of people wiv Rs turbos and none of there's do it although mine is tge only 1 wiv a turbo cooler but recently it's started to run abit hotter than it used to
assuming the t'stat is working, removing is not a good idea as it regulates flow and controls the coolant temp better than just allowing it to circulate regardless of temp. also takes ages to warm up.
id go round all the hose clamps again. do your mates with rst' have std header tanks or the fabbed alloy ones. im srarting to see a pattern where cars with alloy header tanks seem to bubble. still, could be a stubborn air pocket.
id be suprised if its a hg.
id go round all the hose clamps again. do your mates with rst' have std header tanks or the fabbed alloy ones. im srarting to see a pattern where cars with alloy header tanks seem to bubble. still, could be a stubborn air pocket.
id be suprised if its a hg.
I hear what ya saying bout thermostat it gets hot quick and runs hotter than it used to I did have a standard header tank on it and did the same then that's why I thought I'd change it
Aswell the amount of times iv bled the system and been out in it I would have thought the air lock would have cleared
Guna do compression test
Sniff test and pressure test 2moz nyt to see if anything comes of it
Aswell the amount of times iv bled the system and been out in it I would have thought the air lock would have cleared
Guna do compression test
Sniff test and pressure test 2moz nyt to see if anything comes of it
Have you had a look inside your thermostat housing to see if it still has the plastic float that is there to help with air in the system?
My brother has been having similar problems and found a thread on this site somwhere explaining about the float, when he took his housing off his float was missing, so he bought a new housing from ford and the car seems to be a lot better now.
I'm going out now but when i get back i will try to find the thread and post a link up!!!!
My brother has been having similar problems and found a thread on this site somwhere explaining about the float, when he took his housing off his float was missing, so he bought a new housing from ford and the car seems to be a lot better now.
I'm going out now but when i get back i will try to find the thread and post a link up!!!!
Oh ryt never herd of that iv got 2 thermostat housings and there's nothing in them iv changed the rad had new matrix removed thermostat blasted all the water ways including turbo cooler and still the same
I had this problem when I fitted my front mount. I think it is the fact that the rad is restricted to cooling due to the decrease in air flow. I changed my head gasket which had only done 400 miles, thermo, fan virtually everything and it still done it. One day just out of curiousity I removed my front mount and put a standard cooler on and suprise suprise no more bubbling sound. Not saying it is this with yours mate but if you got a standard cooler hanging around give it a try can't hurt
2 Things i noticed while reading.
First is that you say you have had a gasket fitted and the engine has been apart at some point recently. So the question is has it been setup of checked since.
The second is that if you have a small air leak on any of the water system it will cause the water to boil as the boiling point will be dropped to the std 100degree. If there is no leaks then the water wont boil till 110degree. So the point here is that if you have any leak however small it will cause the water system to run hot and not be able to cool down easy.
I advise to change the rad or repair if possible.
Then have a setup and road tune.
After this there should be no issues going by what you have said regarding new gasket etc.
First is that you say you have had a gasket fitted and the engine has been apart at some point recently. So the question is has it been setup of checked since.
The second is that if you have a small air leak on any of the water system it will cause the water to boil as the boiling point will be dropped to the std 100degree. If there is no leaks then the water wont boil till 110degree. So the point here is that if you have any leak however small it will cause the water system to run hot and not be able to cool down easy.
I advise to change the rad or repair if possible.
Then have a setup and road tune.
After this there should be no issues going by what you have said regarding new gasket etc.
Iv changed the rad had a pressure test and no leaks anymore changed the matrix and all still the same after a jurney turn engine off and pressure there it dosnt run hot anymore just pressure when everything is turned off
It's the heat which cause the pressure to rise in the first place, so until it cools down the pressure won't go anywhere, unless you take the cap off expansion tank. This is a bad idea if its still red hot!!


