dash removal
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
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Joined: Jun 2011
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From: dunfermline
I put off changing my trim for leather as my dash was grey but last week thought fuck it and pulled it to bits and being honnest it was easy I don't know why I waited so long iam even thinking iam not keen on a couple of bits on the dash so iam gona pull it out again when I get a better one.
Remove the kick panels and all the bottom half of the dash then get under and disconnect the blower hoses from the vents, remove the centre bit (clock etc) remove the black surround around the speedo etc remove the speedo etc then think there was 5 bolt type screws to holding it in 3 along the top and 2 where the kick plates go. I'll have missed something but youl see it easy enough. Oh what I found was to pull the hazzard switch button off as the dash catches it unless your steering drops down, mine doesn't
Remove the kick panels and all the bottom half of the dash then get under and disconnect the blower hoses from the vents, remove the centre bit (clock etc) remove the black surround around the speedo etc remove the speedo etc then think there was 5 bolt type screws to holding it in 3 along the top and 2 where the kick plates go. I'll have missed something but youl see it easy enough. Oh what I found was to pull the hazzard switch button off as the dash catches it unless your steering drops down, mine doesn't
Pull the rubber door seals off at the front first, careful that you don't tear it
The sill plastics first on the front doors, 3 screws
Then the lower kick panels, 1 screw
Steering cowling next, adjustable columns have more screws underneath than the. On adjustable column
Drivers side lower dash, 4 screws on the early stuff, 5 on the later
Ones the screws are out it comes out on the door side and then you have to slide it to the right
Now comes the tricky bit, removing the centre console
Remove the leccy window switch and under there will be a screw to remove the cover
2 screws under earth at the front
Under the arm rest there are another 3 screws
And then, again, depending on the year, you will have 2 screws either in the open or under some covers in the centr bowl of the console
You can then move the console out of he way without breaking it as the handbrake handle gets in the way
Remove the radio next
Then there maybe some covers on the upper screws above the radio slot
You may miss the 2 screws under the ashtray on the transmission tunnel too but the rest of them are very obvious
Once the bottom is out you can unplug stuff before removing it fully
You now only have the 5 screws to remove the top of the dash
You should consider removing the steering wheel to make life easier as there will be 4 screws holding the outer surround and another 4 holding the instrument cluster in place
A bit of fiddling to get the speedo drive out is required
If you have a 92 spec car I'll explain that at a later stage
And don't forget the 3 screws that hold the heater controls in place and the 90 spec onwards cars also have a micro switch that needs disconnecting there
The sill plastics first on the front doors, 3 screws
Then the lower kick panels, 1 screw
Steering cowling next, adjustable columns have more screws underneath than the. On adjustable column
Drivers side lower dash, 4 screws on the early stuff, 5 on the later
Ones the screws are out it comes out on the door side and then you have to slide it to the right
Now comes the tricky bit, removing the centre console
Remove the leccy window switch and under there will be a screw to remove the cover
2 screws under earth at the front
Under the arm rest there are another 3 screws
And then, again, depending on the year, you will have 2 screws either in the open or under some covers in the centr bowl of the console
You can then move the console out of he way without breaking it as the handbrake handle gets in the way
Remove the radio next
Then there maybe some covers on the upper screws above the radio slot
You may miss the 2 screws under the ashtray on the transmission tunnel too but the rest of them are very obvious
Once the bottom is out you can unplug stuff before removing it fully
You now only have the 5 screws to remove the top of the dash
You should consider removing the steering wheel to make life easier as there will be 4 screws holding the outer surround and another 4 holding the instrument cluster in place
A bit of fiddling to get the speedo drive out is required
If you have a 92 spec car I'll explain that at a later stage
And don't forget the 3 screws that hold the heater controls in place and the 90 spec onwards cars also have a micro switch that needs disconnecting there
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cheers dojj. All this effort for a cage
i've already got back stripped door seals center console with armrest and gear surround. Steering wheel panels of. Bit worried about the wireing though
Shame u dont live closer dojj!
i've already got back stripped door seals center console with armrest and gear surround. Steering wheel panels of. Bit worried about the wireing though Shame u dont live closer dojj!
The wiring is simple mate
There is the wiring for the dash
He fog lights and heated screen buttons (they are a right bastard to get out, you have been warned
)
The heater knob is simple
Fag lighter
Stereo
Light for the ash tray
Light for the glovebox
Possibly the button on the fan slider if it's 90 spec onwards but that stays on the slider panel from what I can remember
Easy as pie, with the correct screwdrivers I could probably do it all in about 30 minutes
There is the wiring for the dash
He fog lights and heated screen buttons (they are a right bastard to get out, you have been warned
)The heater knob is simple
Fag lighter
Stereo
Light for the ash tray
Light for the glovebox
Possibly the button on the fan slider if it's 90 spec onwards but that stays on the slider panel from what I can remember
Easy as pie, with the correct screwdrivers I could probably do it all in about 30 minutes
i got 2 screws i cant bloody get of. Both on the lower dash. One of the ones under the ashtray, and another one on the very left hand side right next to drives side door!
They are phillips aswell arent they as most screws are half threaded already from where they been taken out already. Cheers.
Luke
They are phillips aswell arent they as most screws are half threaded already from where they been taken out already. Cheers.
Luke
use an impact drive on them
make sure you use the correct screwdriver bit on them as well, it's very easy to kill the heads on them if you use the wrong tip
worst case scenario is that you will have to use a punch to knock them around a bit before they'll come out or drill the heads off
the ones under the ashtray are proper fuckers, so use the longest screwdriver you can to get a good hold on the head of the screw
not sure you can get replacements now and there were at least 2 different lengths and at least 2 different head sizes depending on the location they were used
make sure you use the correct screwdriver bit on them as well, it's very easy to kill the heads on them if you use the wrong tip
worst case scenario is that you will have to use a punch to knock them around a bit before they'll come out or drill the heads off
the ones under the ashtray are proper fuckers, so use the longest screwdriver you can to get a good hold on the head of the screw
not sure you can get replacements now and there were at least 2 different lengths and at least 2 different head sizes depending on the location they were used
cheers for the replys. I managed to get them all out apart from one screw on passanger side lower dash which screws up just under the ecu. The head on it is totally gone and its the only screw holding the whole lower dash on at the mo. 
If i drill it... Do i literally drill straight through the middle of it?? I cant even get a set of grips to it to turn it around. Its doing my head in

If i drill it... Do i literally drill straight through the middle of it?? I cant even get a set of grips to it to turn it around. Its doing my head in
drill through the middle of it mate, the head will fall off and you can then get the rest of it out easily enough 
and seeing as you already have several screws of the same size you can find an appropriate drill bit and figure out how much you need to drill into the screw to get it off
have you sourced new screws?
and seeing as you already have several screws of the same size you can find an appropriate drill bit and figure out how much you need to drill into the screw to get it off
have you sourced new screws?
no i'l just use a normal screw from work. Its behind the glove box anyway so cant see it. Dojj, just above the passanger footwell just behind the back plate of the glovebox there are a feW wires and the lower dash wont come out as something is still connected. Looks like a couple of gold 6mm nuts?
steering wheel first
then the surround
then the dash surround out
then the clocks
then the heater screws
then the dash should just pop out
make sure you remember where all the vent pipes go as it's easy to mix them up
if the dash hasn't been out before then you may find that there are 2 clips on each vent to hold the pipes on
also it's a good time to change your heater matrix and clutch pedal ratchets and plastic bushes and steering oclumn bush and the like
then the surround
then the dash surround out
then the clocks
then the heater screws
then the dash should just pop out
make sure you remember where all the vent pipes go as it's easy to mix them up
if the dash hasn't been out before then you may find that there are 2 clips on each vent to hold the pipes on
also it's a good time to change your heater matrix and clutch pedal ratchets and plastic bushes and steering oclumn bush and the like
On the pedals, clutch and brake, there are little plastic bushes that make the pedals run true on the shaft, for less than a tenner it would be wise to at least have a look at these
The steering column bush is an almost service item to change do you may as well do that for te couple of quid it's going to cost
And the heater matrix, just had a look to make sure it's not leaking or bunged up, easy to swap with the dash out the way as its held in with 2 nuts and the screws on the bulkhead inside the engine bay
The steering column bush is an almost service item to change do you may as well do that for te couple of quid it's going to cost
And the heater matrix, just had a look to make sure it's not leaking or bunged up, easy to swap with the dash out the way as its held in with 2 nuts and the screws on the bulkhead inside the engine bay
cheers mate i'l do that today. One question though...
The rubber boot for the lower colum i think is the one i done last year. U can get to this from under the car and is also is what someone else is discussing a few posts down from this?? Obviously i dont want to order it if its the one i i already done. Cheers
The rubber boot for the lower colum i think is the one i done last year. U can get to this from under the car and is also is what someone else is discussing a few posts down from this?? Obviously i dont want to order it if its the one i i already done. Cheers
The one in Gav's post is the rubber bush on the UJ that's in the engine bay, kinda under the Turbo I think. The ones we're on about is where the column goes through the floor.... If you did them recently, id leave em!
Cool, you can still do the floor ones with the dash in, but much easier to do it now... The pedal bushes are fuckers with dash in,so def do em now! If the bloke at Ford knows his onions, hell know what you mean by pedal bushes. They used to be red, which helped, years ago!
I had MicroCat on my pc at home, but bit far away, or id get you all the pt no's....
I had MicroCat on my pc at home, but bit far away, or id get you all the pt no's....
just rung ford up. The heater matrix is 130quid
lol
The 4 pedal pivot bushes are 3.70
And the bushes and lower rubber boot are Ł24 but they said there are 4 bits to replace, so not sure what the 4th part is?
lolThe 4 pedal pivot bushes are 3.70
And the bushes and lower rubber boot are Ł24 but they said there are 4 bits to replace, so not sure what the 4th part is?
Try Auto Factors for the Matrix! Ford were always dearer for them!? Think the 'pattern' ones were exchange, where the Ford ones were outright. Either way, worth a call round the Factors! Got mine from Camberly Auto Factors years ago, they were much cheaper and that was for a Valeo one.... 
Thinking about it, the 4th bit might of been a metal washer or something? We only used to sell / stock the 2 nylon bushes and the boot...
Thinking about it, the 4th bit might of been a metal washer or something? We only used to sell / stock the 2 nylon bushes and the boot...
who did u used to work for stu?so i might aswell get the 4 bits then.
The pedal ones were red. I think the bloke said there now black. I wont bother ordering it untill i see the matrix. Its not something that is majorly important is it?and u dont hear about them breaking very often. I had a look on ebay and they list some aftermarket ones but from 1990 onwards
mines 1989 lol
The pedal ones were red. I think the bloke said there now black. I wont bother ordering it untill i see the matrix. Its not something that is majorly important is it?and u dont hear about them breaking very often. I had a look on ebay and they list some aftermarket ones but from 1990 onwards
mines 1989 lol
Used to work at Station Garage in Shepperton, just a random Ford garage (cant remember where you said you were?), not there anymore....
From memory, all the Ford matrix's were the same, certainly sure Sierra's were!? The bushes definitely sound right!
From memory, all the Ford matrix's were the same, certainly sure Sierra's were!? The bushes definitely sound right!






