clutch dilema??
ok i will start at the begining (may be long winded)
I bought a fiesta race car , and had to change the clutch as it got mullered, after fittment the clutch wouldnt engage and i couldnt get the gears with the engine running.
Upon inspection we found an adjuster under the clutch pedlel, by winding this right in i now have a working clutch ,but the bite is right at the bottom ? not ideal for racing imo.
The box is an ib5(fiesta xr2imk3) quaif internals and diff, the pivot which the clutch cable arm fits to and subsequently moves the release bearing seems to have been modified , where the pinch bolt passes through the pivot there is a second cut out allowing me to turn the clutch arm one knoch on the pivot(i am not sure if this is normaly the case on an Ib5 box?), now if i position the clutch arm so , it would push the release bearing further , so i presume less travel on the pedlel ??? i am aware that it is not good to push the release bearing to far as it can damage the clutch , but there is a hole in the box to watch the movement, and i am thinking when the clutch engages i gould wind out the adjuster under the pedel to stop it traveling to far ???
dose this sound feasable people or am i swinging in the wind with this theory of mine ??
I bought a fiesta race car , and had to change the clutch as it got mullered, after fittment the clutch wouldnt engage and i couldnt get the gears with the engine running.
Upon inspection we found an adjuster under the clutch pedlel, by winding this right in i now have a working clutch ,but the bite is right at the bottom ? not ideal for racing imo.
The box is an ib5(fiesta xr2imk3) quaif internals and diff, the pivot which the clutch cable arm fits to and subsequently moves the release bearing seems to have been modified , where the pinch bolt passes through the pivot there is a second cut out allowing me to turn the clutch arm one knoch on the pivot(i am not sure if this is normaly the case on an Ib5 box?), now if i position the clutch arm so , it would push the release bearing further , so i presume less travel on the pedlel ??? i am aware that it is not good to push the release bearing to far as it can damage the clutch , but there is a hole in the box to watch the movement, and i am thinking when the clutch engages i gould wind out the adjuster under the pedel to stop it traveling to far ???
dose this sound feasable people or am i swinging in the wind with this theory of mine ??
If the inner is longer you could try taking up the slack with a spacer at the gearbox end.
Where is the clutch pedal height in relation to the other pedals, your description indicates a lot of travel by the clutch pressure plate fingers to disengage the friction plate, was the friction plate the same thickness as the original one?
you have a ratio problem.
you have a ratio problem.
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From: stockton on tees
mark the clutch is a single plate sintered made by super clutch, they had the original clutch on there records so gave clive exactly the same spec as the old one.
from memory the pedal sits at the same height as before (levelish with the brake pedal)
your right about the long travel of the fingers I just dont know how to solve it, as clive has explained there is another cut out in the splines where the clutch arm/cable bolts on, (this might be for use when a new clutch is used), but im loathed to try it in case it pushes the fingers in too far.. the adjuster on the pedal could be wounsd down to stop that tho
steve
from memory the pedal sits at the same height as before (levelish with the brake pedal)
your right about the long travel of the fingers I just dont know how to solve it, as clive has explained there is another cut out in the splines where the clutch arm/cable bolts on, (this might be for use when a new clutch is used), but im loathed to try it in case it pushes the fingers in too far.. the adjuster on the pedal could be wounsd down to stop that tho
steve
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