hi all..have issues with hot and cold starting...car always had a problem with cold start...would not tick over on choke..i had to keep revs up myself and after a few minutes the car would idle nicely on its own ...has had a new cold start valve fitted but never cured the problem. but this did not bother me as it generally only took five minutes to get the the car to tick over nicely from cold and generally stopped me from just getting in the car from cold and booting it up the road..car was always nicely warmed up this way before i would drive it.....and now ive got what seems to be a hot start problem too... car will start from cold first time providing im keeping the revs up slightly..and will idle fine..once the car has been running and is nice and warm then turned off ..car will not restart at all...only if left for a hour or so...have changed the fuel accumalator as advised but still the same...all advice welcome....!!!!

 

when was fuelling last set up

 

not sure it has ..car has had recent service and apart from the cold start side of things car was running spot on...problem really only happened the other day ... car started lumpy but normally after a few mins car would idle fine..but this day it did not until i actually drove it then after about twenty mins or so it would not tick over ..did manage to restart and get home ..but once turned off would not restart ..not for a hour or so once completely cold ..but once turned off after running will not start

 

i would get base fuel set then as the mfi is renound for going out of range easily, mine used to do it around every 6 months

 

If it's always struggled to start from cold check the plugs under the inlet manifold are plugged in the correct slots,their interchangeable and often get connected the wrong way.
Their bitches to get at from memory,I think theres a beige,brown,grey and blue plugs although I have no idea what does what without a wiring diagram as that was 15 years ago now!!!

 

the common two to connect wrong are the auxiliary air valve and the coolant temp sensor
if these have been connected the wrong way round you will have fried the cts
This connection mistake was more common on later series 2 cars as they must have run out of colour coded connectors and used all grey ones

You need to check the black fuel box has power as it is common for the power supply relay to burn out
This is located up by the throttle pedal and is the black one next to the big silver fuel pump relay .

the blue cold start valve is not the problem these only work at below -8
cold start warm up enrichment is controlled by the black fuel box and metering unit via the fuel pressure actuator
It also controls on boost enrichment and over run fuel shut off and load enrichment

 

many thanks for replying..will check the items you have highlighted..over the next few days

 

thanks for all the replys ..am going to check over the next few days ..!!!

 

one more quick question ..how important are the numbers on both ecu's ..the black one has 0280 800 132..most i see are the similar apart from the last three numbers..and the other ecu is blue red blue.v85ab12a297 ...do they need to be a exact match ..if i want to replace either..!!

 

Hot starting may also be a starter motor wiring problem. What's the symptons? Turns over but doesn't fire or starter doesn't even go? If it isn't even turning (turn the key and nothing there engine-wise) it is very common due to the turbo heat affecting the wires.
If it is this, try tapping the starter and see if it goes. New starter is first port. Also get a starter motor heat shield fitted which will help keep the heat off the wires. Not sure if you can still get these from Ford but they are worth fitting if you can find one.

If it's turning but not firing keep with the advice above, and the cold start issue fix may help the hot start if it is fuelling incorrectly.

 

Stuck auxilary air device can cause cold start and cold running issues but not hot start.

First thing I'd check is the engine temperature sensor!!!