Still can't get mu clutch to work properly, its a 4x4 saff converted to 2wd.......
Just fitted the escort small turbo clutch paw and still not getting travel to release the clutch to change at the top of the pedal and is gripping fine up the road but still wont fully disengage when fully depressed. any ideas anyone?
AP 6 paddle clutch and AP cover, 2wd flywheel and cable.

 

I had this problem on my car after changing the clutch, although mine is a mash of parts what we found may help.

For a start, it would be wise to fit a new cable or at least measure yours.

Did you replace both the quadrant and the pawl??

and are you sure it was the right ones??

Mine was fucked so was replaced. The only difference between most of them is the depth of the groove that the cable sits in. Deeper the groove, the less the cable is capable of being moved.

Before swapping quadrant, my pedal was like yours, it didnt quite fully release the clutch with the pedal mashed into the floor. However just swapping to a quadrant with a more shallow groove (and hence more cable travel) has solved the problem. My clutch now releases about 1/3 to half way up the pedal leaving plenty of travel for future wear.

 

I've heard you need a 2wd clutch cable if converting from 4x4-2wd.

Edit, jus noticed you have one.hmm.

 

Thanks for the reply Warren, its had a new 2wd cable from MSD, we only replaced the quadrant on it, its an ST escos one, thats what Mark @ MAD recommended to use, it's made it better, it actually moves now, but its really got to be forced into gear, it will not go into gear when sat still and engine is running, unless you are really violent with it.
The ST quadrant has a much smaller groove, so should give more pull?

 

yeah the shallower the groove the more cable pull. in effect the circumfrence and hence cable pulled is more with a shallower groove.

The other thing to check is the correct actuation of the quadrant..... hence why normal to replace the pawl anyway. is it actuating correctly and self adjusting as it should????

If all is well, then there must be slack in the cable still that needs taking up. Mine was a bodge of a sierra pedal on puma pedal box so the original builder used a spacer.

Yours shouldnt be a bodge but id check if anything is damaged on pedal, clutch lever arm etc.

You could use a spacer to take out the slack but technically its a bodge!

 

I have the exact same problem, my cossie wont go into gear when running but when I start it in gear and release the pedal it works fine. take it out of gear and try and put it back into gear when running wont go in.

I bought an AP organic clutch and cover from
https://passionford.com/forum/ford-s...iclutch-2.html

I have also changed the quadrant and pawl for a Graham Goode one which is uprated and still no joy.

Is it possible that the clutch over and clutch is fake and a load of rubbish?

 

Just an update from mine, turned out we had the wrong clutch arm in the box. Needed a straight one rather than one with a kink at the end.

 

glad its sorted. After all there are only so many things that can go wrong with what, on paper, is a simple mechanical system.

 

Yes, thats the reason it was boggling us so much, i didn;t know ford put 2 different types of clutch arm in the T5's!
Thanks for all your help with it Warren, some good info and advice you gave.