Another turbo conversion plan
Hello, I decided to put some turbo in my Ka (it seems to be nice plan for cold winter days).
I actually have nice options how to uprate the mainfold with welding etc. so this part is no problem. Same to tubing etc.
Problems is which turbo will be best? GT15 looks like too hard on backpressure, where GT25 or GT22 can be considered too big for low boost setup. Yet less restrictive to exhaust.
Which MAF/MAP (not sure now)? Some ppl used stock one and it worked somehow?
Which ECU? Can we remap original ECU (or reset it and let it learn something about new setup), or can I put Sierra Cosworth ECU inside (managed to run easily 3.0 Orion V6 even, very adjustable thing..) or should I go for something totaly other (but expensive) like megasquirt?
Does 7psi setup really need retarding (going just up to 5000 revs for street use)
Is original pump good enough, same to injector and pressure valve? I read just warning about pressure limits (5 bar is limit of rubber joint btw pipes and pump near tank, this can be enforced easily to stand more pressure).
I read lot of articles around but I'd happy to use something tested or get hand on well tested ECU maps etc.
If anybody can help please.
copy of this is also on http://www.talkford.com/topic/186736...1#entry1798109
I actually have nice options how to uprate the mainfold with welding etc. so this part is no problem. Same to tubing etc.
Problems is which turbo will be best? GT15 looks like too hard on backpressure, where GT25 or GT22 can be considered too big for low boost setup. Yet less restrictive to exhaust.
Which MAF/MAP (not sure now)? Some ppl used stock one and it worked somehow?
Which ECU? Can we remap original ECU (or reset it and let it learn something about new setup), or can I put Sierra Cosworth ECU inside (managed to run easily 3.0 Orion V6 even, very adjustable thing..) or should I go for something totaly other (but expensive) like megasquirt?
Does 7psi setup really need retarding (going just up to 5000 revs for street use)
Is original pump good enough, same to injector and pressure valve? I read just warning about pressure limits (5 bar is limit of rubber joint btw pipes and pump near tank, this can be enforced easily to stand more pressure).
I read lot of articles around but I'd happy to use something tested or get hand on well tested ECU maps etc.
If anybody can help please.
copy of this is also on http://www.talkford.com/topic/186736...1#entry1798109
Last edited by IceCage; Sep 29, 2011 at 02:30 PM.
Turbocharging Technician
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From: Top secret. Mission:Imposible.
Hi! turbo choices could also be VW KKK units- k03 and k03s can be had cheap and souns a good size for you, also td03 turbo from a toyota starlet.
With super unleaded and low boost you may get away with standard ignition map.
Fueling can be run from a "piggy back" fifth injector set up, driven by megasquirt or a fifth injector controller. Good luck
With super unleaded and low boost you may get away with standard ignition map.
Fueling can be run from a "piggy back" fifth injector set up, driven by megasquirt or a fifth injector controller. Good luck
Hello, do you have any good link for piggiback 5th injector? Won't be standard EFI setup enough? I checked pump and valve and it should be same component even for 100 HP applications (escort 1.6 etc.) Injectors I can't find what type is inside (and how much they give).
don't want to waste money on it, just to reuse ford parts from Sierra if possible. I think we had 5th injector setup to fuel Ford Scorpio Cosworth 24V engine with special charger setup, I'll check it. But I bet there was just parasite control used, simple wired somewhere to go rich with revs. Economy was disaster...
Turbocharging Technician
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,557
Likes: 0
From: Top secret. Mission:Imposible.
Two things ive done with sucess in the past that worked and was very cheap was-
A) Use a pressure switch (oil pressure is fine, in the boost pipe) to switch a relay that flips between coolant temp resistance and a variable resistor. So YOU can adjust the mixture on boost (set it richer by increasing the resistance and fooling the ecu into thinking the car is cold)
B) Use same pressure switch to join an aditional injector so that it is pulsed along with the cars original (run the earth frrom the fifth injector to the switch, then to the cars original injector (control) earth)
Both work, the first is more adjustable, but offers less overal increase. Maybe a combination of both would work? And could be done for pennys too!
A) Use a pressure switch (oil pressure is fine, in the boost pipe) to switch a relay that flips between coolant temp resistance and a variable resistor. So YOU can adjust the mixture on boost (set it richer by increasing the resistance and fooling the ecu into thinking the car is cold)
B) Use same pressure switch to join an aditional injector so that it is pulsed along with the cars original (run the earth frrom the fifth injector to the switch, then to the cars original injector (control) earth)
Both work, the first is more adjustable, but offers less overal increase. Maybe a combination of both would work? And could be done for pennys too!
my old man suggested that we can put fifth injector close to the throttle butterfly (better is behind to prevent gas dropplets on butterfly), injector can be controled by set of diods to pulse with every other injector (so to simply give fuel evenly to all bores).
He still speaks about need to increase fuel pressure from basic 3 bars as it is for athm intake. He says that with boost it wont go well. So adjustable valve, he thinks.
Isn't this solved by 5th injector? More fuel without overpressure (I am not happy to increase fuel rail pressure, as it may cause backlash to all rubber connections and rupture it, as I read).
Sure, 5th injector would be switched on only by +pressure in intake, we can do this any way (starting with pressure sensor switch measuring turbo output pressure, set to optimum boost level we want to keep like from 2 psi up to 8 psi?).
Next thing I can't get correctly, somebody told me that injectors need fuel to cool down properly, where my old man says it's not needed (now I wonder who is right), as we can keep inejctor runing even without fuel, so we will only regulate fuel input by setting valve to read intake pressure and switch fuel on/off, no need shut power in injector. But that sounds very crude to me (but simple to make with proper valve)...
Damn if I could get photos and drawings from really tested set up... if anybody can do it.
Next thing he mentioned as beneficial was that we can put injector right to trubo compressor output, there warmer air before IC will blend fuel fine way and as well it will act as coolant of air... I am not so happy to have fuel vapour runing all way thru IC and tubes (could it cause harm to rubber? or not? but what about possibility of explosion?)
He still speaks about need to increase fuel pressure from basic 3 bars as it is for athm intake. He says that with boost it wont go well. So adjustable valve, he thinks.
Isn't this solved by 5th injector? More fuel without overpressure (I am not happy to increase fuel rail pressure, as it may cause backlash to all rubber connections and rupture it, as I read).
Sure, 5th injector would be switched on only by +pressure in intake, we can do this any way (starting with pressure sensor switch measuring turbo output pressure, set to optimum boost level we want to keep like from 2 psi up to 8 psi?).
Next thing I can't get correctly, somebody told me that injectors need fuel to cool down properly, where my old man says it's not needed (now I wonder who is right), as we can keep inejctor runing even without fuel, so we will only regulate fuel input by setting valve to read intake pressure and switch fuel on/off, no need shut power in injector. But that sounds very crude to me (but simple to make with proper valve)...
Damn if I could get photos and drawings from really tested set up... if anybody can do it.
Next thing he mentioned as beneficial was that we can put injector right to trubo compressor output, there warmer air before IC will blend fuel fine way and as well it will act as coolant of air... I am not so happy to have fuel vapour runing all way thru IC and tubes (could it cause harm to rubber? or not? but what about possibility of explosion?)
Last edited by IceCage; Oct 3, 2011 at 08:48 AM.
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I have to explain it to my old man, he is going to put CLK compressor into his Explorer 4.0 and I bet he's runing to disaster thinking that way.

still nobody knows Ka/Fiesta owner who made nice boost on 1.3 endura-e?
I just need little more power (20-30 bhp) to get confident during countryside runs around trucks.
I already decided that NOS with nozzle about 30 HP is more then enough for this, but turbo conversions aka Joey-p fm Talkford would be more fun. However this guy is not available anymore, so I have to find other source of tip and tricks for this mod.
but tks anyway for advice
If you're looking for megasquirt try Mtech: http://www.mtechautomotive.co.uk/eng...gement/v4-ecu/
Last edited by Shonky; Oct 5, 2011 at 10:51 AM.
If they'd have run aftermarket management it would have worked but back in 2000 cheap management wouldn't have been so readily available as it is now.
If you're looking for megasquirt try Mtech: http://www.mtechautomotive.co.uk/eng...gement/v4-ecu/
If you're looking for megasquirt try Mtech: http://www.mtechautomotive.co.uk/eng...gement/v4-ecu/
But I'll wait with it, as it seems that we will have to upgrade injectors too: up to 300cc for summer ride (120 hp limit, 1 bar pressure).
I really found few amazing apps to count injector size and expected cfm and hp figures. It looks good... 100 hp is not impossible!
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Matt Baxter
Ford RS Cosworth Parts for Sale
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Sep 16, 2015 08:30 PM
5000, charger, closed, conversion, converting, cosworth, ecu, ford, ka, loop, megasquirt, open, project, td03, turbo




