Dodgy steering/ fuel filter
Over the weekend my MK1 Ford Focus 2.0 Zetec has devoloped 2 issues.
It is hard to start from cold sometimes you have to give it a rev to get it tto fire up and sometimes sounds like its running on 3 but rev it and it clears, also at low revs, it is really jumpy and misfiring, anything about 2500 revs its fine but the lower the revs the more it kangaroos about, i was thinking fuel filter/spark plugs ? but unsure.
Also the steering when the wheel is centre, as in driving in a straight line, if you go to steer right, it goes hard as you put pressure on the wheel then suddenly it feels like a pop and the steering wheel jumps to the right? doesnt do it going left.
Its just passed the MOT so i cant understand whats gone wrong
It is hard to start from cold sometimes you have to give it a rev to get it tto fire up and sometimes sounds like its running on 3 but rev it and it clears, also at low revs, it is really jumpy and misfiring, anything about 2500 revs its fine but the lower the revs the more it kangaroos about, i was thinking fuel filter/spark plugs ? but unsure.
Also the steering when the wheel is centre, as in driving in a straight line, if you go to steer right, it goes hard as you put pressure on the wheel then suddenly it feels like a pop and the steering wheel jumps to the right? doesnt do it going left.
Its just passed the MOT so i cant understand whats gone wrong
Mine had the same problem with the steering, i had the pas fluid replaced and all was well. People will tell you its the rack, i would replace the fluid first as its quite common for the focus fluid to break down.
I can't help with the other issues though.
I can't help with the other issues though.
Thanks mate, it is strange, it doesnt do it if your sat still, only when moving, at lower revs there is a kind of like dry bearing noise coming from the passenger side but only slightly, the car is immaculate and only had 1 owner before me and full ford service history so its been looked after, just hate niggly problems ! Any idea where the fuel filter is located? Thanks
I had mine done at a garage as i had booked it in for them to look at it but the day before it stopped doing it as the weather had started to warm up. So i left the booking and had the fluid done.
To do it at home you use a turkey baster to get the old fluid out iirc. Once you replace it you then go lock to lock 3 times i think to blead it.
My fluid was the same, black and thin like petrol!
To do it at home you use a turkey baster to get the old fluid out iirc. Once you replace it you then go lock to lock 3 times i think to blead it.
My fluid was the same, black and thin like petrol!
That wouldnt empty the entire system would it? Id have thought you would need to pull one or both the hoses off the power steering cooler underneath and start it up till it drains whilst pouring clean fluid in to flush it once it runs pink ( usual colour ) put the hoses back on? Pain in the arse cars are !
Last edited by 12340987; Sep 19, 2011 at 11:56 AM.
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By sucking it back out the tank with a turkey baster all you will do is remove whats in the tank, top it up with fresh fluid again and itl just mix with the old stuff thats sat in the racks and pipes.. lol
missfire could be plugs, leads, coil pack, fuel filter, in need of a decent service.
dry bearing noise is more than likely clutch release bearing. does it go when you press the clutch pedal? wouldn't wory about it if thats the case as mines been doing it since i bought it 2 years/ 20k ago. by the way i also have a mk1 2ltr zetec!
click on the steering IS the rack and a fluid change will only prolong the inevitable rack change bu it's worth doing it as it made my rack last an extra 2 years. if its only just started aswell a fuid change may save it for longer. proper way to change the fluid needs an asistant and front wheels off the ground as follows:
1. lift the front and disconnect the coil pack from the loom.
2. romove the return hose from the reservoir, plug holein reservoir and aim hose into big container.
3. assistant cranks over the engine a max of 10 secs on the starter motor while turning the wheel from lock to lock. at the same time mechanic continually pours new fluid into the reservoir. (10 secs at a time max or you'll burn the starter motor out so crank for 10, wait for 100
4. repeat 3 until all old fluid is flushed out.
5. unplug reservoir, refit hose and reconnect coil pack.
6. fill and bleed the system
7. lower the car and smile. job jobed 8)
if the clicking returns its time for a replacement rack. i've replaced mine on my drive so if you need any info just drop me a pm.
dry bearing noise is more than likely clutch release bearing. does it go when you press the clutch pedal? wouldn't wory about it if thats the case as mines been doing it since i bought it 2 years/ 20k ago. by the way i also have a mk1 2ltr zetec!
click on the steering IS the rack and a fluid change will only prolong the inevitable rack change bu it's worth doing it as it made my rack last an extra 2 years. if its only just started aswell a fuid change may save it for longer. proper way to change the fluid needs an asistant and front wheels off the ground as follows:
1. lift the front and disconnect the coil pack from the loom.
2. romove the return hose from the reservoir, plug holein reservoir and aim hose into big container.
3. assistant cranks over the engine a max of 10 secs on the starter motor while turning the wheel from lock to lock. at the same time mechanic continually pours new fluid into the reservoir. (10 secs at a time max or you'll burn the starter motor out so crank for 10, wait for 100
4. repeat 3 until all old fluid is flushed out.
5. unplug reservoir, refit hose and reconnect coil pack.
6. fill and bleed the system
7. lower the car and smile. job jobed 8)
if the clicking returns its time for a replacement rack. i've replaced mine on my drive so if you need any info just drop me a pm.
Thanks mate, its not clicking as in making a clicking sound, its when you drive it, its very un nerving, as your going along, straight or straight ish road its okay, and the steering feels tight and firm, but then when you go to steer a bit , it goes harder then it sort of pops and goes really light, so you end up turning the wheel twice as much as you intended to, its ok around town but on back roads it really gets my backside going if i get up to speed with it
EXACTLY the same symptoms as mine mate though the can get VERY loud if they a truley fucked. take a look at the vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ATjdVu1Ff-Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ATjdVu1Ff-Q
Thats exactly what it does, except it makes no noise? Fook sake, hope it doesnt need a new rack, is it a common fault for the rack to go? Its a mint shell but at the same time i don't want to spend loads on it
it is common but only because the pas fluid doesn't get changed when it should.
if its only just started doing it as you say then a full flush and fluid change should prolong the racks life a fair bit so get it changed ASAP mate!
if the rack does need replacing at some point, either because replacing the fluid didn't work or the problem has resurfaced some time after a fluid change, then its not that hard a job so don't panic yourself about it. i got a replacement from a breakers for £64 with 90 day warrenty and did it myself on the drive. it does require the subframe to be dropped but reaignment isn't an issue if you refit the bolts in the same holes and realign them to the marks on the subframe.
good luck with it and its certainly worth doing if the shell is mint.
if its only just started doing it as you say then a full flush and fluid change should prolong the racks life a fair bit so get it changed ASAP mate!
if the rack does need replacing at some point, either because replacing the fluid didn't work or the problem has resurfaced some time after a fluid change, then its not that hard a job so don't panic yourself about it. i got a replacement from a breakers for £64 with 90 day warrenty and did it myself on the drive. it does require the subframe to be dropped but reaignment isn't an issue if you refit the bolts in the same holes and realign them to the marks on the subframe.
good luck with it and its certainly worth doing if the shell is mint.
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