Its a bit of an ongoing story, but basically the cossie wants to tick over at 3k.
On the old engine, if i plugged in the iscv, the revs jumped to 3k no matter what you did, tps calibration, new solenoid, CTS etc. I just lived with it and left the iscv unplugged

Now ive just fitted my new engine, which includes new CPS, New Phase sensor, new dizzy, rotor arm and plugs, Good secondhand engine loom, new ecu (L8), new chip, Brand new PF09 TPS, different ACT sensor,
The only sensors the same are 3bar map sensor (Genuine webber) and ignition amp.

I have tested the voltage from the TPS and it is 0.3v (pins 30 and 17) increasing to 5v as you open the throttle.
I have also tested the voltage from the map sensor, (pin 15 to earth) and with ignition on but not running i get 1.5v, and with the engine running and ticking over at 1k-1.2k i get about 0.7v but then i dont think i am getting as much vaccum as on the old engine, (see below) this could also be down to cams? as im running a M.A.D spec inlet cam.

with the new engine it starts and runs fine, revs are around 1000-1200 rpm idle, hunting slightly, if i rev the car upto 2800rpm and take my foot off it pauses high and returns to normal.
If i rev the car past 3k, the revs will return to 3k and sit there untill i turn the engine off

the only thing i have noticed is i seem to have a bit of an air leak around the inlet manifold, ive tried nipping up the bolts but it still seems to be leaking,
I've been spraying clutch and brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner round the joints and round the centre of the manifold to head it pulls the revs down and with the iscv unplugged will stall the engine.

this wouldnt cause the issues im having though, would it?
im going to order a new inlet gasket as i need to paint the inlet anyway, should i order a MAP sensor at the same time even though it tests out ok at the bottom of its range?

thanks.

 

sounds like the air leak to me. especially as the spray kills it dead.

 

Just drive it to Tonys

Steve

 

Yes air leak will cause the issue.

 

thats the easy option but also the more expensive one
i hate being defeated and spending money so i'm doing it myself

Cheers James, i was hoping someone would say that, i will get a gasket tomorrow and get it done over the weekend

 

as above air leaks definately cause idle issues so its the first thing to sort out. fingers crossed its just that.

i know how you feel about being defeated, only ever been defeated on a car twice and the last time was on mini cooper s brakes i fucking hate those pissy little t50 bolts that hold the discs on. only had the one bit, did the rears then broke it on the fronts

anyway, good luck with the cossy mate. you've done the hard work now its just the fine tuning

 

Do the plenum gasket too, use cometic ones the STD ford ones sent very strong at all

 

You have had a quote for work from him then lol

Steve

 

im pretty certain they are cometic gaskets now, maybe they have been overtightened?
I'll give matt lewis a ring in the morning.

 

For a price of a gasket its worth a try.

 

Also adjust your TPS slightly.
0.30 Volt is the limit in the ecu. At 0.31 Volt or higher the ecu does not recognize idle throttle. Anything below 0.30 Volt is O.K., around 0.17 is perfect.
If the TPS signal at WOT really goes up to 5.00 Volt it would trigger an error.
The signal should stay below 4.95 Volt.

 

its still doing it, took the inlet off, sorted the air leak, painted it while it was off, and put it all back together, still exactly the same
its fine when cold, then starts playing up as it warms up.
Still doesnt seem to be pulling much vacuum
it runs perfect without the iscv and while the revs are high if you unplug the iscv the revs drop down to normal.

it was originally set to 0.15v and it was the same, it goes to about 4.9v full scale

 

BUGGER!

i can't believe theres anything major wrong, must be base settings or something faily simple thats been overlooked.

i forget who you got the engine off but you could try asking them how it was all setup originally.

theres definately no other air leaks? something not connected up?

 

did the air leak stop with the new gaskets ? i read somewhere ages ago someone else had that sort of problem and turned out where they had work on the inlet it had warped a bit so had to be skimmed/machined flat again ?