As I am trying to resolve a major problem with the running of ********* Sapp 4x4 and tried all the usual stuff I made up the test light and plugged it in only to get a constant light on. It makes no difference if the engine is running or not, it is supposed to flash rapidly or spew out the code. What am I doing wrong and I hope it hasn't harmed the ECU?

 

If there are no codes you get a constant signal.
Disconnect a sensor (air temperature) before switching on the ignition and try again.

You have also added a switch to your tester? To ground the required wire?

 

I joined the two lower terminals in the plug I think it fed 8 and 11 and 27 should give out code.I don't know how it can't have a code as it is barely running on 2 cylinders.

 

Depending on the software (Chip), as I doubt it's standard? it may not have the flash code output anymore as some don't hence why you may be having problems.

Have you checked underbonnet connections, ignition system etc as to the problem?

Martin

 

Sorry we are 7 hours behind you. That would make sense, so if I were to put the factory chip back, start the engine(if it does) and that would create codes wouldn't it.

Just to give you some background, with the hope that someone could throw some light on this before I throw 5 litres of gas (petrol) inside it and strike a match, I was just driving along not fast not in boost not nothing if I was doing 40 kph that would be it and the car suddenly started tto misfire and then bog down with a rich, rich mixture (see AFR meter) I limped home and it has never improved. After reading threads on here I put it down to the phase sensor so ordered all new ones and fitted

Phase sensor with correct gap and wires in right place rotor arm lined up with line in dizzy
CPS with right gap and wiggle test on loom
Checked fuel regulator
New dizzy cap
Swopped ECU with another then swapped back
Group A coil is year old, hold ing king wire away from earth has 2 inch spark
New ECT sensor plugged into wiring but not fitted to head as its a bitch
Eliminated IGN pack as spark is so good
Taken apart all 3 wiring gubbins on firewall cleaned and put back
Fuel pump is priming OK
Changed plugs 4 times, keeps soaking them in fuel.
Suspect the rotor arm as when I pull the spark plug leads off when running I used to get a right belter now I dont plus you could get a cracking noise down in valve cover from the giant spark but dont now. Highly unlikely more than one lead would go at once. Tested leads by putting a plug in each one and watching it spark but not the brightest spark .
Pulled off injector wires and momentarily see an improvement.
Tested rotor arm with continuity meter and get only small reading, from centre to end of arm.

Going down the bar now as writing all this has depressed me as I have been working on this ******* car for 10 days now and no further forward

 

I would be looking toward the MAP sensor myself, or rather the hose connection to it first, these can come off or split, when this happens they run very rich! Another very important one to keep an eye on is the fuel pressure reg hose, if this comes off you can end up with a meltdown as the engine won't get sufficient fuel!

To be honest I don't think the flash code system is that good as from memory it will only show an error if a sensor is either totally open or closed circuit. It dosen't need the engine running either for the flash code so long as the ECU is powered up, I.E ignition on.

Under no circumstances run the engine with the standard chip, if you have different hardware then it won't run the engine properly.

Martin

 

Flash codes are standard for all Cosworth ecu's.
However, if the chip is not standard it may not be capable of that anymore.
Group A chips were changed for serial transmission with a monitor, without flash codes.

You can try a standard ecu with a standard eprom, with ignition on ONLY.
Any hard failures (short circuits, open circuits) would produce a flash code then.

 

I should have added the MAP sensor to the list I have changed it and no effect and pipe is good

 

I should have added the MAP sensor to the list I have changed it and no effect and pipe is good

 

I can take the Stage 3 chip out of this one and put back the factory one, would that work?

 

try diff cps sensor i had one on my old golf that some times workrd then never, not faulty fuel is it?

 

I'll give it a try, because I'm desperate, but I thought sensors either work or they don't.

 

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