How is the amal valve connected to the boost system on a FRST?
Also where do the wires go on the OFAC ECU?

Im having boost issues and it might pay me to connect an AMAL valve...

 

I am pretty sure the FRST does not have an Amal valve. Does it not have a two port bleed valve IIRC, still electric of course?

Martin

 

the bit you refure to is classed as the amal valve

this is a diagramme i knocked up years back for someone, hope it helps.








what sort of problems are you having?
your prob best to PM me as i dont come on here much, or if your a memeber of fiestaturbo.com, contact me on there as i use that all the time.
user name is the same on there, and as im a mod on there your find me easy

 

Cheers Jay!

Which pin on the AMAL goes to Pin33 on ECU?

 

alright mate, just emailed you

brown and green wire to pin 33 mate, and if your looking at the amal face one, with 1 pipe each side and the plug up the top, i belive im correct in saying the brown and green goes to the left pin

 

Cheers for all the help Jay! Top Man and I owe you a drink! Not that i visit the Isle of Wight much...

 

no worries mate, hopfully you get it sorted

 

Sorry for the hijack but my car uses the same Amal set up (lectron valve) and I'm having boost issues. My Amal was bust so I've unplugged and bunged the hose going from compressor/wastegate to it (was hooked into Amal output :s)
But now I'm having overboost symptoms. Would replacing the Amal solve this? Or if it is a stuck actuator will wd40 and carb cleaner sprayed on it's joins and moving parts and some wiggling unstick it?

 

if im guessing right, the pipe you blocked was the one on the turbo compressor housing? meaning the hose to the actuator is now doing nothing?
if so, then the actuator wont work like this and there is no boost control what so ever so the car will keep boosting untill the cut out , cuts in, or the head gasket pops

 

No the bit from T-piece to Amal is bunged so it's running direct but still presents overboost symptoms. The Amal itself was dead to electric but it shows 2v with ignition on at the connector. New one was ordered and due

 

ah right.
the actuator could be set rong, the spring could be too strong, or it could be fucked.
maybes its jammed up, can say as i havent seen it, but if you take the rod off the waste gate, you should be able to pull the rod outward, there will be resistance, how much depends on the actuator spring pressure

if you can pull it out what so ever, see if it needs pushing in as it might of jammed out, but if it has, it shouldn't have so a new one may be needed.

these are just ideas as to what it could be though, ive not seen the car etc so dont go buying a new one unless you deffo need it

 

I'll have a go but it's mounted right below the exhaust manifold

 

yeah its a bit of a bugger to get to

 

I've connected my new lectron valve up but car still stutters and hesitates. Should the valve click when it's plugged in or when the ignition is switched on? Mine didn't but lad says it works and there is ~2v to the connector block for it.

 

its a solenoid valve so will click when it opens and shuts, the fatc its clicking means it works.

you say it stutters and hesitates, this doesnt sound like a boost problem, it sounds like it could be a fuel problem.

what spec are you running?

 

It's not clicking. Should there be 12v or a lower amount across the plug? It's a Focus 1.8 black top with Mountune conversion.
T25 turbo, metal hardpipe with 1.8 maf in, front mount, beige 355cc/min injectors, act sensor, 2bar map sensor and a decat exhaust. Should be 9psi boost

 

i know its not clicking all the time, but it does work.

what ecu are you running? i was assuming this was a FRST, but with a conversion like that, im guessing your running mega squirt or something like that.
which i will be honest, i know nothing about, well very litte not enough to advise anything though.

if you are running a after market ecu, it could be a fault within it causing the problem, or it could be another sensor causing the problem, maf, lambda etc.
without knwoing the full extent of the conversion and checking it my self, theres not really much more i can help you with mate, but it might be worth while popping down a tuners and having it checked and set up

 

It's a Pectel T2 ecu piggybacked to a factory ecu. I was thinking sensor related tbh. When the car accelerates with WOT in 3rd, 4th or 5th, it will get to about 3000rpm to about 5000rpm then shudders and loses acceleration. Can manage to drive to redline with less throttle though. It has like a jet engine type wooshing popping noise from the exhaust. Not loud but can be heard inside but nothing unusual from exhaust while doing it. But I've unplugged lambda, maf, act individually and get no EML and seems to make no difference to how car drives. It did have a crap breather system which I've replaced with a catch tank with atmos venting. Still have mustardy sludge coming out though. Also car had pistons and turbo rebuild a few years back and not used much since til I bought it.

 

hmmm, i dont know nothing about that management so cant comment on it fella.

might be fuel related, you got a uprated pump i take it?

stab in the dark, as this can effect the frst, is the speed sensor plugged in and working ok??

 

Tbh I have no idea about fuel pump spec. Yeah speed sensor plugged in and having no issues associated with it. Someone suggested decat maybe causing stutter as ecu is locked so no map change will have been done so considering a focus RS or st170 cat to see if it helps. But someone also mentioned the temp sensor and lambda sensors.

 

yeah they could cause problems, the temp sensor in the inlet tells the ecu how hot or cold the coolent is, when cold it puts more fuel in, when hot, less, so the ecu controls "choke" via this sensor, if they play up on the FRST, it can play things up a bit.


lambda is also important for fueling, if its not working, then the car wont perform

 

How could I check the sensors and also is there a way to make sure they have correct voltage/current to them?

 

i norm use a programe to get that information,. but i lost it when my hardrive failed and it wont reinstall without some code now for some reason, so i cant advise on the mabda or the temp sensor.
but if i remember rightly, the temp sensor is ranged over 5v depending on temp.
lambda, erm, white wires are heater wires, brack is return, and grey is feed if i again, remember rightly, what the voltage should be though im not sure