as above i have a set old comp struts that im thinking i could chop up.and use the standerd arm to make a jig, anyone made there own? as paying over a grand seems daft to me

cheers dingle

 

it is a lot of money for a chopped up standard beam with some rose joints added lol

 

think arse licker on here has just done one, there was a thread a few days ago about turbosystems fitting it.

 

It is a very labour intensive job IMHO, need to extend the beam inner mounts forward, then extend the outer arm mounts forward, make retainer points for the adjusters on both arm mounting points. Also (obviously) you have to be very accurate to make sure it all lines up nicely and travels in the correct arc, then buy/make 4x barrel adjusters, 4x locknuts, and buy 4x heavy duty 1/2" spherical bearing eye ends...Then powdercoat or paint to a high standard to finish it off.

Overall, a LOT of work, people have to make profit on it as most companys are not charitys!! Pretty good value IMHO, as you are paying for the time, materials, R&D and jig, and warranty of the product. If you have the skills to knock one up to a high, safe standard yourself, then go for it, but for most people it is easier to let someone do it for you who has done it before

 

been looking at one for mine but what stage is best as there is like 3 stages of rear beams

mine is a road car but will be doing the odd track day

 

hatherway racing did them / arm or beam or both depending on what you where after. But they always said for the road just have a modded rear beam as it aint harsh on road use and makes the world of difference. And it was only about 120 pound for the moddeds done which aint bad really. This was a while ago so the price maybe a touch more now.

 

It is pointless rose jointing the arms without doing the extension work, the entire problem is that the pick-up angles are crap, making the wheels change the amount of toe as they travel..... A 6° beam gets rid of this, but the pick-up points are altered significantly from std, and even more than a group A beam..

 

it is no where near as simple as it seems to design and manufacture these beams accurately and safely
The ahmed beam is professionally made
the beam Mr rs licker has made is extremely clever and well engineered
he has clearly had some serious technical help from some very clever fooker as it resolves all the issues associated with many other fabricated beams

 

I can see where u are coming from but if u already have the jig and have already made a few then its not that much work! as things like the lock nuts the barrel adjuster bodys and the spherical bearing eye ends are off the shelf bits with out paint there dosent really seem to be more then 10 hrs work there so that means making one your on almost 100 pounds an hour

 

well said.

 

i'll let you use my jig and i'll pay you £100 for everyone you do.

 

Did i say its 100 pounds lol i said at a guess its about 10 hours work and at over a grand thats 100 pounds an hour! If u look on mk raceings sight u can buy a wrc rear cradel for 650 i dont no how much more is need to get that on the car but id say making the cradel on its own is more labour intensive and would in involve a more specialist jig / more engineering skill then modding the standard rear beam. Im in no way sayimg its an easy job so dont misunderstand what im saying! just there a lot of money

 

mine are not £1000. they are £800. if you phone mk for a quote for a wrc cradle (as i have ) you will find they are £2800. danny from ep is having 1 fitted, with the mods to the car his is costing £7000. so at £800 they are pretty cheap imo. plus jimbo will tell you. you will re-coup your money by saving on tyre wear. and the improvment on handling is amazing.

 

as said i dident know how much the cradle was fitted to the car!!! just used it as an example as id guess it would be harder to make that ( just the cradel ) and get it right than mod the beam and some are very costly as a stage 3 adrenalin one is about 1500 and that was on a group buy! which is alot of money! if u can do them for 800 then thats alot more reasonable and i dare say the mods danny is haveing done for 7 grand are far beyond what u would want done to your fast road car lol

 

makeing a jig off the old arm is easy really,its working out were new bits need to sit , if you got a fab shop witch my mate has ,im gna give it ago as for 800 quid i can have 8 go's at getting them rite as i have bosses ready on my shelf and rose joints

 

its easy just jig the original arm then move inner pick up point till its at 6 degrees

mark

 

All this they are easy to make LOL! Have a look at ours, and exactly what goes into them they are not just a bent tube welded into the end of a chopped off beam.

There is a serious amount of work, with the plates needed to cap both sides of the extended arms, then there is the beam itself, this is the easier part

The joints (we use anyway) are very high quality and the cost is great, there is not as much money in beams as you might think

 

thanks im keeping you in mind for a rear beam as thats a bloody good price

have you got a thread on them so i can see....

i need one as mine is bloody dangerous on the standard beam

 

if you or who ever builds them can do it don't see why anyone else carnt im not going use standard arms as my mate will make them from scratch as he built loads for class 7 grassers rear set up for bike engines

 

Didn't say otoh couldn't, just said it's not as easy as people make out if you make them like ours, others look much more simple

 

anyone going to post pic's ?

 

I get some pics up jimbo as I'm sure there are tip notch

 

oooops


mines got this setup and its a road car lol

 

what and u paid 7000 grand for it lol im looking into a 6 degree rear beam good enough for fast road! he can do it for 700

 

Is this acceptable for MOT? Does the testers manual not state that no suspension parts are to be heated ie welding.

 

i would imagine that refers to repairs and not construction if built to a high standard

 

[quote=J1mbo;5299352]All this they are easy to make LOL! Have a look at ours, and exactly what goes into them they are not just a bent tube welded into the end of a chopped off beam.

I suppose it's the same as the cast Hart plenum when you compare it to 1 of yours. does the same job, just not as pretty to look at.

 

I recko could make one handy enough but at £800 wouldn't be really worth the hassle if ya work it out
strip/sandblast beam and arms £50
aroura rosejoints adjusters, spacers £250
paint/powder coat another £50
time to work measure and make jig about 3hours
fab work another 4 or 5
then stripping finishing and painting another 4 hours
And then ya have to have faith that itil all hold together

 

Its not really, you won't be able to adjust yours as far as ours due to the outter pick up point having a rose joint, I hope you don't come stuck and run out of adjustment like adrenalin beams do

So its like comparing a mis to a hart, the mis is better and looks better

 

i made my own rear suspension but its not like most .



rear section of cradle supports diff







ill fit it one day

it will look like this when finished

 

very nice some real good work there looking at the pics

 

all adjustments have been checked. there is as much adjustment as you need. they can also be made with just the inner joint done if required. also i don't need to chop a chunk out of my beam (and weaken it) to give me full travel.

 

look for: 6deg beam fitted at Turbosystems.

 

I'm guessing this is down to just having the tube instead of a full arm, it probably isn't needed for road use anyway but we put it in for safety.

 

Do you make them then jimbo?or they sent out

 

I don't personally but a good mate of my dad does them along with my dad, I do the Rose joints when they're done and build them up