Hi I have a Escort TD 97, it has become quite hard to start in the mornings of late. I changed the glow plugs and fuel filter thinking there was a problem with either heating or air in the system, but hasnt made that much of a difference really.
My next job is to change the cam followers as Ithink one or two of them might be faulty as they are quite loud even when engine is warm. Could this be a contributory factor in to why it is hard to start first thing. I was thinking that if the valves are not opening and closing properly it would be harder to start??
It has always been low on power and noisy if sitting at 3500/4000 revs. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Mark

 

If it's the same 1.8D lump as fitted to the mk4 escort then it uses shims to adjust the clearance, so these need sorting out, but easy job, a bit lengthy but can do swapsies with the shims from one position to another, so only usually need to buy 3 or 4 etc, can be done without removing cam etc, just depress edge of bucket that shim sits in, and prise out with cam lobe pointing away.
Have a good look at the filter head, and see if there is a air leak being caused by a split diaphragm in it, depress the plunger it should be rock hard, if you can depress it first thing in the morning repeatedly and the car then starts no problem then a new filter head is needed, these always go, a very very common problem.
Another problem is some battery listings list a very small capacity battery for these, way too small for winter and the engine simply turns too slow.
It would most likely benefit from a bottle of MILLERS diesel treatment, the only one I found to work, and it works wonders.
tabetha

 

OT
Tabs, your all round knowledge of 'fords' is remarkable...so i'm remarking
Users are fortunate to have you around. I think you're a great credit to the forum.

Thats it

 

It's cos I'm so old!!, just waiting for 1 new part then can get me cos back on the road myself, weather permitting!!
I remember when the model T came out, and yes I seriously have worked on one ha ha!!
Bloody thing, the pedals are round the wrong way I can remember that.
tabetha

 

test glow plugs had similar problem to this turned out to be mainfuse up by the battery just my pennyworth

 

Thanks for the reply Tabetha. The engine is an Endura-DE, dont know if that means anything to you, means nothing to me, so dont know if this is the engine you refer to. When you refer to shims are these the cylinder shaped followers that the cam lobes hit. you say swap them around? Are the shims of different thicknesses? or are they all standard. Sorry but you have to be a bit patient with me.
I tested the glow plugs and replaced them a short while ago, I also changed the fuel filter but not the housing, it did start better but only for a short while. When I press the plunger on top it goes hard, so I decided it was ok hence not changed. It was terrible to start this morning, really cold temp outside but battery seems to be fine, turns engine over fine, just will not fire, white smoke once it does fire, also whilst turning over, misses really badly when it does eventually start and when pulling away when cold, gets better when warmed up but still doesnt run properly. It has always been low on power, almost as if the turbo is not fitted, I know it should be better than this and want to sort it out. It is really unhappy when it hits a hill, not even a steep hill, it will not pull up hill, it doesnt even sit at a steady speed, it rapidly loses speed, forcing me to change gears. The engine sounds noisy when 3500 revs are achieved, 4000 is like re-entering the earths atmosphere, but it doesnt go any faster, just makes more noise,this is what I meant by lack of power, very lumpy on idle all the time, it noticeably vibrates your whole body if that makes sense. Like it is unbalanced. I hope this makes sense.
I just want to get to the bottom of it as I cant afford another car.
Please,please help me out Tabetha

 

Yes the round "discs" that the cam bears down onto are the shims, these come in lots of sizes so you can adjust the clearance, it's ok to do swaps with each other, as they wear evenly(should) as the cam is slightly off centre so they rotate a little each press to keep wear even.
How many presses does the plunger take to get hard ?, white smoke indicates air in the fuel system, this is the most likely entry point for air.
I would check all the pipes on the turbo/inlet for splits, but they shouldn't be unduly noisy, the tappets are easy to do, just a bit long winded.
Get a note pad and pen measure gaps, take tappet out one at a time measure tappet, put back, do all this on all eight, so you've established the gaps you have the shim thickness and the gap needed, you will find some of your existing shims can be moved to give correct gap on different cylinders, then buy the new gaps you need from ford or similar, about Ł3 each, they will often do trade in's as well.
Shim is same on a huge amount of engines from peugeot, seat, fiat, vw, citroen, renault etc etc if you get stuck.
tabetha

 

Wow, thanks for the reply yet again.
when the cam is over the shim what should the gap be? almost touching? or NOgap? DO I just prise them out of the follower.
As for the fuel filter housingI only have to press the plunger a few times before it is hard, but I might just change it anyway, cant hurt eh?. I will have a look for burst pipes on the turbo. Thanks for the help, much appreciated.
Markus

 

have you tested for power at the glow plugs? glow plug relay could have gone meaning there not working. i look after a few of these at work and had it a few times when they have rough running and low power that some bodge artist who last changed the timing belts got the fuel pump timing slightly out.

 

Your best bet is to invest in a haynes manual, got all the spec you need in it, the std manual does not cover the diesel engines, 1.6 and 1.8, these are covered in book no 1172.
There is a specific gap, inlet = 0.30mm to 0.40mm, exhaust = 0.45mm to 0.55mm both of these are cold settings.
This is assuming it is the engine I'm talking about fitted up to P reg

 

Cheers for all your help guys will be back in touch when I have got round to looking at the car again, pretty hard when its dark so early and i dont have a garage. Thanks for all the help and suggestions

 

Can't beat getting a manuel. But mind you I did the tappets on my old mk4 combi 1600cc diesel by the manuel, as with every job I do. You should always read the manuel as lots can go wrong such as.. tightening bushes whil car is on jack,, not on road wheels.... Anyway
I tryed to get the tool to depress the cams as I could not do it with a screwdriver as the manuels said to do without the tool. I tryed at our local ford dealers for the tool and they said, they too could not get the tool. They then went on to say, So, I would have to take it to them to have it done, The chap at fords, that was serving me then said to the boss that had said I would have to have them do it.
"If you cannot get the tool, how can you do it then.???? " The boos did not know what to say to that. but grined
Anyway, in the end with trial and error I did get a tool made that did the job. and the rest was dead easy. Then with help from a great chap at Brights autos on Filton ave Bristol,, he gave me the shims I needed from a large pot of old ones he had in the shop.
Anyway to cut to the chase, tappits are now nice and quiet but it did not help my van start any easyer. So still have same prob as this post starter, but she dose start. now have another prob I should post about. Cheers all, Pete