Hi all, I am about to do an oil change on my escort Rs turbo. I was wondering what's the best oil I can use? The engine is a standard 1.6 cvh, thanks

 

use the search function mate this topic has been covered loads of times tho everyone has there own opinion on wat oils best, i use silkolene pro s (now called fuchs titan pro s) 10-50

 

Mobil 1 15w-50 i'd say was best but eveyone will tell you something different

 

I use castrol 10/60 because it's got good high temp protection.
If yours is standard you should be ok with 10/40 or 10/50 semi sythetic.

Edit : when mine was standard I used 10/40 ss

 

+1

 

tescos 2stroke is fine imo

 

On a standard CVH I would look at a good ester based 10w-40 as a top choice, something like this http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60217-mi...ngine-oil.aspx If the engine is in good shape then you can also use a 5w-40.

Cheers

Guy

 

lol a cvh in good shape

 

will 5w30 fully syn oil be ok?

 

Er... no! Will be like water!

 

It's not the worst thing you could use, but it's not great either

 

that oil was brought out for zetecs as ford didn't make the engine correctly and it used to jack up the followers when cold

 

was just about to recomd he give you a ring oilman.

on a standard rsturbo i agree a good ester based 10W40. a 60 is WAY too thick for standard and some modded engines. just take a look on opie oils tech section and click on 10W60.

 

When you standard do you mean not rebuilt or standard component engine or standard bhp engine? As mine is a rebuilt engine with stage 3 head and not running standard bhp. Would 10w40 ss be better or 5w40? Thanks

 

For more than standard power then 10/50 is the one as you'll be running hotter

 

Im going back to mineral oil now. I have recently have two cams (nobe) and lifter breakdowns and used two different synthetic oils. First 15-40w penzoil and after that with another cam and lifters Mobil 1 5-50w synthetic.

Now Im going back to mineral oil. Going to buy 20-50w tomorrow. Read that this oil is good to -10 degree and my car never runs in that cold wheater.

I have also got back to standard cam and lifters from Ford. Hope this will do it now. Im pretty pissed of taking my phone on the high way to get someone to get me.

BR Butchi

 

It's not the oil thats causing your cam failures but the poor quality of the cam kits, or having not ran them in properly.
Mineral oil does not offer as much protection as fully synthetic so how will that help?

 

i use mobil 1 15 50 in mine and has been great

 

Penzoil... Wouldnt bother with it again for sure, Mobil 5w-50 is pretty good stuff but is made from a mineral base, so its not what the oil is made from thats causing the problem.

Seriously, dont bother with 20w-50, you will not be doing it any favours.

Cheers

Guy

 

+1

 

Taken from ford microfiche,

20deg C to 30deg C SAE 10W-30
Over -20C SAE 10W-40/10W-50
Over -15C SAE 15W-40/15W-50
0ver -10C SAE 20W-40/20W-50
below -20C to 0C SAE 5W-30

I do have the tolerances listed to run with 10W-30, but i doubt anyone will be running them unless on a fresh build. So for summer cars 20W-50 looks good.

Rob,

 

I would'nt put 20-50 in it it will be to thick we only sell that for old cars pre 80's.
Thats just my opinion

 

Only when its cold, but fair point, i was running silkolene pro s 10-50 and that felt fine.

Rob,

 

Spot on Rob, best oil for a tuned RST IMO
But yes 20 is too thick when cold!

 

Ok, I have read your comments but bought the mineral oil anyway. The car seems to work fine with it so far. Nice and quiet.

The first kit I fitted was a brand new CVH 34. Last not more than 75 Swedish miles. Than I was buying a ported head with cam. Couldent see what sort of cam it was (not kent) it last 100 Swedish miles.

When I bought the car it run on mineral and thats what Im going to do again.

A question: Did syntehtic oil exist when our car was made back at the eighties? We all know that the CVH head is running very hard at the cams, thats why the belt is supposed to be changed often compared to other cars. Im willing to think that the mineral oil 20-50w is more likely to sustain the oil film between the cam and tappets and other components.

Why I have this idea is just because I have had two cam breakdowns. I know that the Kent cams is poor but Im willing to try the mineral oil for a time now.

BR Butchi

 

As all have said mate (including the official ford tech book) 20w-50 is for warm climates. Not a problem when the engine is hot (SAE 50) but definately a problem when its cold. I suspect you will have more cam wear as oil will not reach the head quickly enough. But if your new cam kit is of good quality it may last longer anyway.

Secondly, there is nothing wrong with mineral however it breaks down with excessive heat and i don't think its as viscously stable as synthetic stuff, im also unsure on wear additives and minerals.... IMO Synthetic oils are superior, they have been trialled tested and proven, im fairly sure lots of people have complained of bad turbo life with mineral oil?

What oil pressure do you see cold and hot? maybe this has something to do with your crazy cam wear......

Rob,

 

perhaps there is a problem in the head or block like blocked oil ways stopping the cam and follower from being properly lubricated and therefore wearing it out.

 

Yes they were around, however they were very, very expensive so were generally not used/purchased and many places did not stock them for this very reason. Also cars had run fine on mineral oil for so long it took time for opinions to change with the fact to back it up that synthetics are better. At the end of the day engines not only back in the 80's but even now do not know what kind of oil is being used, what the oil is made from and quality is down to the owner. The engine is designed to run on a viscosity (thickness) when hot and in your case it was originally SAE40 @ 100degc.

When you look at the temp ranges of the oil, 20w may look ok as it says for -10degc and that is pretty chilly for the UK, however what it does not say is how well it will flow at those temps... Just that it will flow and compared to a 5w or even a 10w will not flow very well at all, causing your new cam to be starved of oil even longer on start up. No oil = wear.

Cheers

Guy

 

The thing is, I agree with you guys when its all about synthetic oil. I have always used this kind of oil to all my cars.

Im going to run the car now for a while with this mineral. I will open up this topic in the near future to describe my result. I hope some of you will be interesed of the result.

About the the start up wear using the 20-50w oil. Many racing engines use this kind of oil. I dont think this will wear more on the cams and lifters than other oil. I think Jano wrote in a old thread that 5-40 or 50w oil is too thin in cold and result to low oil pressure. I cant find the thread now but I remember he wrote it.

BR Butchi

 

i run valvoline 20/50 vr1 oil

 

would you say you have a racing engine though?

racing engines are desinged and built with different tollorences to yours to be run under far different conditions (possibly high rpm, high stress, very hot, etc) and may well have an oil warmer to heat the oil before start up. i honestly dont think you can base your choice of oil on whats used in racing cars and if you do then you should at least be running a fully synthetic

 

A bit of winter motoring advice.

At this time of year, it’s beneficial to use an oil that has good cold start flow properties as it will get to the parts of the engine that need it far more quickly when you turn the key.

The "w" number which means winter is the key here and the lower it is the better cold start performance the oil will have.

A 15w or 20w rated oil will struggle to get around the engine in very cold temps and we would strongly recommend using a 10w, 5w or 0w for better cold start performance.

It is a fact that around 90% of all engine wear occurs on cold start because the oil is at its thickest. The colder it gets the thicker the oil becomes and this affects the rate of flow which affects the rate of wear.

These numbers help to explain the oils thickness and therefore cold flow performance at various temperatures.

Grade.................At 0C.................At 10C..............At 100C

0W/20.............328.6cSt...............180.8cSt.... ........9cSt

5W/40.............811.4cSt...............421.4cSt.... ........14cSt

10W/50............1039cSt...............538.9cSt...... ......18cSt

15W/50.............1376cSt..............674.7cSt...... ......18cSt

20W/50.............2305cSt...............1015cSt...... ......18cSt

Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the thicker the oil.

Winters in the UK are fortunately not too cold but -10’s have been known, compare the thickness of the oil at 0degC and 100degC and you will see the big difference.

Just something to consider on those frosty mornings.

The Opieoils Team.

 

i no what your saying oil man i use 15 50 but dont realy use my car in winter but i no my oil pressure in summer and winter is usally the same few psi difference on cold start its about 4-5 bar but when warm its perfect. in winter it just takes a little bit longer to get warm.

 

causing more wear

 

lol well my car is in a heated garage

 

that helps

 

Interesting that at 100c the difference in viscosity between 20, 40 and 50 grades is relatively small compared to the difference at 0c which is massive!

 

the oil you need in a rs turbo is one still with a high zinc content

they removed the zinc because of catalytic converters

but some older engines still need it, with high friction loads like the CVH cam has, also diesel engines need it because the high friction load on the gudgeon pin

 

looking at the info oil man has put up thinking off going to 10 50's.

who makes this oil

 

Opie..
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1145-sil...e-engines.aspx
or
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60235-mi...ngine-oil.aspx