just wondering if anyone else is using this type of oil in there
cosworth as i oil changed mine about 2weeks ago
putting in 1ltr of lucos oil stabiliser and the rest with
15w15 semi-synthetic
and it is sounds sweet .....

 

15W50 is fine, I wouldn't use a semi synthetic unless it's drinking the stuff, the last oil I used was comma 20W50 mineral, for around 10K miles, but was drinking at such a rate it was changed every 500 miles ha ha!!
tabetha

 

is 20w50 not a heavy oil or would it be ok to use with lucos oil treatment
as i am thinking to the next oil change as that comma is alot cheaper !!!
so must be better lol, or is that a stupid question ? ....

 

i use mobil1 15-50 although i,d like to try something else soon

 

20W50 is only slightly thicker when cold than a 15W50.
I wouldn't bother with any oil treatments unless they are ZDDP, Zinc Dithiophosphate, a anti wear anti scuff addition of around 0.012 % to oil quantity, was excellent esp for the older flat tappet type with high lift cams, and consequent higher loads, but is beneficial in any oil, most modern oils have boron based anti wear additives, some better than others.
It also provides oxidation stability, important when engines are town use or gentle use only, pampered engines dies early, usually as a result of the oil remaining too cold to burn off contaminants in it, mainly carbon,(that's why it goes black).
It is also highly beneficial in controlling lead/copper bearing corrosion, but because phosphorous is a poison as far as cats go the level has been reduced alarmingly, most of the newer oils are mostly ashless anti oxidants, much more cat friendly.
Oil is an amazingly interesting and complex issue.
If using your car hard then mineral oils will not be as stable as fully synthetics are, semi's are a waste of time imo.
tabetha
tabetha

 

lucas oil!-crap as sold by kens-nottingham

 

Viscosity is the key word no one has mensioned yet!
Meaning the oils ability to flow, affected by temp as oil is heated its viscosity lowers. Allthough it may seem like its "thickness" or "heavyness" it is not always the case.

Anyways for these engines I think its a case of following what other guys have been successfull with, I use silkeolene pro s 0w50. Just because thats what it was run on before i bought it. Dont know what everyone else uses right enough.
As for additives I saw a demo for that Active 8 stuff the other week and it really had me sold! Anyone use this? Or at least saw the guy demo it, its awsome.

 

No ones mentioned viscosity, what do you think the numbers refer to ?
Ford recommend a 30 weight oil for the cossie, maybe they have shares in oil companies as this is wholy unsuitable for the yb, some use thicker higher viscosity oils so they are not as thin when heated compared with lower viscosity oils, I prefer the approach of cooling the oil more, I saw temps of 130C at a steady 70mph on my 2wd, when using the std oil/water cooler, which bears out what new york uni found, on average oil is 30C hotter than the water, as it does at least as much cooling.
I still run engines in on mineral oil, even though I know a modern synthetic does NOT stop a engine wearing in properly, being too easy does though.
tabetha

 

so which oil should we be useing in our cossy then going to change mine soon.

 

Tried and tested Mobil1 15w50

 

I was on 15/50 mobil but I am now trying Silkolene PRO S 10W-50 Ester Synthetic Oil and im very happy with it.

 

I used to use it no problems at all, as said I believe it's important these engines have a 50 weight oil, I changed to Silkolene Pro S 10/50W now as I figured that it would help the engine when cold as there would be less drag due to the lower viscosity and was a better make oil than the last I had.

Martin

 

exactly what i use, i like the lucas stabilizer, give me better pressure and slows the burning of the oil!

I run 15w 50 mobil 1.

 

If I could get it easier I would use SUNOCO RACING 20W50, as I can't I would use Silkolene Pro S from Matt Lewis, though mobil 1 is also a great oil, it "earned" it's name from the bmw going non stop round the track only stopping for fuel and servicing, no wonder it did great as these are the ideal conditions with it never getting cold!!
When the engine is cold there is more blow by past the rings, this and the normal blow by contaminates the oil, that's the reason it goes black, ie carbon is black, giving your engine a good thrash once in a while helps the oil enormously, just ensure take it easy when cold, I don't use any boost until up to temp wherever I can help it.
tabetha

 

I also use 15w50 motul 300v oil... it's perfect for me!

 

Ive used Mobil 1 15/50 in my cosworth for the last 10 years,and never had any engine troubles