when engine is hot and i park it up 10mins or so later after some heat soak it wont start so i have to tun ignition on and short the starter to start it or let it cool. is this worn power supply or starter? starts perfect when cold etc.

 

Sounds like the starter, downpipe cooks them & heatsoaks like you say. Running the heat shield? either way I'd heat wrap the next one and some people go with smaller 1.4cvh one...

 

i have a heat wrapped one sitting in garage which i use to run on my escort so may have to slap that on later lol, cheers

 

heat soak mate,,get it heat wrapped or insulated enough to cope....had the same on mine years ago.

 

As said above heat wrap the downpipe.I had this problem on and off for months,wrapped the downpipe and never had anymore bother.

 

Is it the original motor in the car and not a conversion? Ive had same problem and turned out i needed an extra earth cable on battery. When engine was hot would not start for buggery, same symptoms as heat soak on the starter. Something else for you to check if it turns out its not the starter

 

cheers guys, will attack it @ some point lol

 

i had this prob on mine last year, wasn't the starter, was the crank position sensor, its in the block just above the starter motor, a five min job to switch out and still available from the dealer brand new, just before you start removing starters and stuff......

HTH

 

ermmm, another option, i reckon it is heat soak though as only been getting it in hot weather and when turbo is hot and can hear starter trying to click lol.

 

As said, heat soak a common issue and a proper ballache.

Mine is currently acting up. Until i change it, i'm faced with either leaving engine running, sitting around like a bell or waiting for some random to bump me. PITA!

 

eh ? how can a CPS stop the starter chucking in ???

the starter as a trigger that pushes the main shaft forwards,,,,, is it chucking it in or not,, if it is then the motor aint spinning either down to not enough power to it ( hot cable perhaps,,, not electic man so Lilo n Stich is the person to talk to ) if its not chucking it in its the top solonoid is not moving the fork

insulation is the answer,,,,, but id love for a proper solution to be found for this old problem rather than " give this a go"

 

well starter works when cold and sticks when hot so i short the 2 nuts on the solinoid part to it switch when hot, could be trial and error, i know heat = resistance but starter or cables lol, guess id need to check voltage @ starter cable when hot and see if its putting out the current?

 

it only know from having the exact same problem last year, if the CPS cannot sense where the crank is, it will not let the engine turn over at all..... and the way the sensor breaks, when the engine gets hot, and heat soak sets in, the sensor stops working, though when cold it wrks fine.......

 

jim the point im making is if you remove the CPS and try to start the car the engine will STILL turn over,, as the starter motor is doing that off the battery alone, the ecu has no control over the startermotor so failed CPS wont stop it turning over,,, it WILL stop the engine firing ect but the engine will spin on the starters rotation untill the bat is dead

 

i totally understand what your saying, but as i said pal, had exact problem as our friend, and i changed starter, alternator, unwrapped all wiring to find the fault and thats what it was, so just saying, before you under take everything else, just try that, the sensor is pennies and will save a total fuck on changing the rest..........

would stick my ore in normally, as i'm no mechanic, but is a prob i had last year that confused every fooker that looked at it........

 

jim honestly mate what your saying wont make a difference,,,, you belive it did on yours but its the same as when my neighbours are playing music loud and i get up to have a word and they turn it down,,,,, my getting out the seat has not actually mate that happen it just appears that way

 

if you can start it by linking the 2 terminals, its a wiring problem, simples.
weather or not this is caused by the solenoid getting hot and needing more current to pull it in and the wiring/ circuit components not being able to pass the required current is another matter.

 

well tbh the starter cable doesnt look the best so think ill chop that in for a new one and see if that helps, i have a heat wrapped starter so that can go on too.

 

Similar problem on the track car we have built ,put new starter on heat wrapped downpipes ,wiring was ok as it come out of another car that did not have this problem ,may well try the cps ,fine when cold very slow to start when hot ,as if its not going to turn the engine over ,new battery aswell

 

try and check the voltage going to the starter when its hot
also have you guys checked the bacl plug from the ignition switch as ive had a few that were dirty and gave the same prob
just pulled it apart and cleaned the contacts and is was spot on after that


have you removed the starter and cleaned the solonoid at all

 

oopps was supposed to be black plug lol

 

what was the verdict??

 

99% sure it's a sticking solenoid. Exactly the same symptoms and problem as my old XR3i used to have. It used to be very embarassing when i'd ran it warm for a while then went to get petrol so turned the engine off, got back in the car and it wouldn't start. If you haven't fixed it yet, next time it does it try giving the solenoid a firm tap with something solid as this usually frees it. This is not a cure but it might get you out of some red faced situations.

Let us know what it turns out to be.

 

my s2 used to do this and so did my mates j plate s2.

its a pain in the arse.

 

havnt fixed it, sold the car for 2200 with bloke knowing the prob