My mum's 1999 1600 escort estate is due a service - it's done 57k so I assume it'll be due a cambelt, what about a tensioner and maybe a water pump?

I'm all over cossies and cvh's, but have never done a zetec.

Anyone got a manual online also?

 

waterpump runs of the alt belt so its optional when changing cambelt imo

you really need a setting bar to lock the cams, few quid on ebay

 

just grab your self a timeing belt kit and do the lot as for the water pump yes its run off the alt belt but its bolted behined the t-belt so can be a bit of a pain in the ass to chang with the belt fitted

you need to lock the bottom end and the top end as there is NO timeing marks

 

As said you need the bottom locking pin, this contacts a flat edge of the crank and the cams are held by means of the slots in the rear, you can use anything 6mm for this such as a bar/rod etc.
Easy enough to do, but be aware that there are two different types of r/c gasket fitted to these on this year, and the ford system working from the number plate is not always right, so get both to be sure and take back wrong one.
Other wise access is good.
tabetha

 

Will be going to get all the bits tomorrow

so it's basically:-

Remove camcover
No 1 to TDC or is there only one position the cam locking bar goes in?
Fit cam locking bar
Fit Crank locking pin - where's the blanking bolt?
aux belt off
cambelt tension off
belt off
water pump off/on
tensioner off/on
new belt on
locking bar and pin removed
turn over by hand - any way to double check timing??
new aux belt on
camcover gasket and back on.


Anything I missed or am I way off ?

 

Just thought - crank pulley got to come off too?

 

Yep crank pulley off too, if you also take out the plugs, when you turn the crank with the pin in you can actually hear the disticnt "ching" type sound as it contacts the flat edge of the crank.
Easiest way to do, take crank pulley off, insert bolt into crank, screw in finger tight, get to tdc, the locking bar for the cams will only go in one way as the slots are offset, make sure bar goes in, then take bar out rotate say 45 degrees 1/8 turn ANTI clockwise, as veiwed from looking at the crank pulley., then turn CLOCKWISE till you hear the distinct sound of the pin hitting the crank web flat area.
The pin goes in a hole that is at the very bottom of the block about 8" away from the gearbox, it will have a 10mm bolt access is quiet good, remove bolt screw in locking pin, just tweak it up a touch with pliers.
Often the bar will need a slight tap to get in the slot, if anything other than slight, then loosen cam bolts, just until tension goes, then replace belt etc, with bar still in place lock the cam bolts, there is no woddruff key on these so they will just lock where they rest after tensioning new belt FIRST.
Take out pin, locking bar, then as you described, DON'T be tempted to overtighten the cam bolts, they don't need it, and will not be a problem at the ford setting, when finishing DO ensure you get the crank pulley up to the torque setting, as these can come loose, but don't at correct setting.
There is only a very shallow blip in the crank pulley that goes over the end of the crank woodruff key, so make sure you hold this on till the bolt is finger tight, as it can easily slip off/out of the slot bit.
tabetha