Trying to get my ICV working and not having any luck! LOL
Could someone post up screen shots of the ICV settings for closed loop mode please?
I'm using the normal Ford EFI ICV thats on the side of the inlet manifold.
At the moment it doesnt matter if I have it at 100% or 0%, Invert the Valve Mode, or do anything, it is always open (dont know how much though).

Thanks!

 

i only run mine on pwm warmup as closed loop pwnm is rubbish for mine.
run valve frequency at 156Hz, mine buzzed at 78Hz
set at normal, i.e. 0%=off
cranking duty set at 70%

then on the pwm table it goes from 40@5 degrees down to 5@71 degrees
just make linear figures in between.

mine's not perfect but should help you on your way.

 

Cheers! I'll have a play with that in a bit!

 

i had real problems with pwm closed loop, made the idle really rough constantly up and down between 800 and 1400rpm, then on engine switch on it's shoot up to 3krpm, then slowly drop.
so i just set the idle on the TB and then switched to pwm warmup

 

No joy, I cant get it to do anything at all!
There is 12v going to it and i've double checked i'm using the correct wire from the MS ECU, so I'm thinking maybe it's dead?
The resistance accross the terminals is 10.5 on the 200 range of my multimeter if anyone would be kind enough to meassure theirs for me to compare?

 

Has the ECU been modded to run the a TIP121/2 transistor if your trying to run a PWM valve? If not you would have fried it.

 

Doesnt need to be modded it's a MSII ECU from ExtraEFI.co.uk which can directly drive a ICV, no need for a relay.

 

ok then.

 

i can check mine, but it won't be till monday.
the iscv stays normally closed, does unplugging it do anything?
if not, then open it up and test the solenoid is springing back enough, it may just be the spring has failed and won't return the valve.

 

sounds like you need to phone scotty back up at extra efi and tell him your problem but to me sounds like you've fried you internal warp coil or there might be a problem in the external flux capacitor, hope this helps

 

Ah, they are normay closed eh? Well mine is open as I can feel suction if I put my hand over the end, and the revs drop! Unplugging make no difference either.
If it were just the spring then would it not be fully open and my revs up really high? I will check though!

 

put 12v across the valve and it should open right up to it's maximum. If this works then you need to make sure the ecu is grounding the valve. One side is supplied 12V, and then the ECU grounds it using a pwm signal, ie turns it on and off very quicky. Get an LED, solder a 1k resistor to one of the legs, and a piece of wire to the other. You can then use this as a test probe. Place the led accross the valve connector (with valve disconnected) and you should see it glowing or even flashing if you set the valve frequency low enough.

Rick.

 

they are normally closed, if you disconnect then virtually no air should flow through (not a perfect seal at best), give it 12v direct feed and earth and it should fully open.
there is a spring on the vlaves rod which returns the valve to closed when power is not applied.
you can open the valves up easily, just unscrew the remote mount adaptor, then undo the solenoid from the other part of the body, check the valve opens and closes fully etc, then fit back together if all is well.

 

Ok cool, thanks!
Are gaskets easily available, or will i be cutting my own??

 

Hi karlos i have screenshots of my icv valve settings, it works 100%.

I try to find those.

Ah you have ms2.. here some screens:

http://www.finsquirt.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4374

 

Excellent cheers fella's!

 

Hope you get it sorted : )

 

you should be fine just reusing it, maybe a little sealing paste.
the gasket should still be available, but like gaskets from Ford, will be overpriced and take time to arrive

 

Ok after testing the ICV it works fine, opens and closes exactly as it should!
But...... after testing the output from my MS ECU as per Ricks instructions I have nothing, not a flicker!! So why is my ECU not pulsing the earth as it should??

 

because you fried it.

 

 

so why is it not working then ???

 

Well if I knew that I would be asking! lol
Could be a setting, faulty ECU, broken loom, etc.. I'll have to continuity test back to the ECU pin and go from there...

 

sounds like you've fried it as you need to solder a little transistor across the two wires that basically bridges the positive and negative as rick said above, they may say there ecu's can do it but they need a hand to do it

 

Check your tps value because i have big broblems until i get good tip about that.
Change idledcadvance gauge in dashboard and take a good look if it drives anything. I was amazed when i realized that there is nothing happening in gauge, but after i tweaked settings (tps value when idle) the needle started to move and controlling iacv.

 

i too had this issue, changed over map and wouldn't idle properly, calibrated tps and worked fine afterwards.

 

send me your msq to richardm79@gmail.com along with a datalog of you blipping the throttle and the car idling.

Rick.

 

Thanks Rick!
I'll go out and do it in a bit mate!

 

This was the problem!



Just waiting to hear back from the guy that built it as to where I should resolder it to.

 

looks like it should be soldered to the middle leg of that transistor to me!

 

Yeah it does, but i'm not risking it!

 

yes it does, it's never going to work like that!

i haven't had a chance to look at your new datalog, but there doesn't seem to be any point!

 

lol! No there doesnt!
If your 100% thats where it goes then i'll solder it up and get it back in the car?!

 

i'm sure it's the middle leg where there is another wire going to it.
basically the patch wires are only relocating the transistor from the board to a heatsink for better cooling.
the other hole from the board goes through another patch wire to the resistor and then back to transistor with the other green patch wire.
i had the same problem where the solder wasn't quite right, it lit up an LED but not good enough to move the valve.

 

Yes, it defo goes there, make sure you don't desolder the diode that is on there too.

 

Cheers Rick, I had confirmation back from www.extraefi.co.uk too, problem now is after hooking the ECU back up it wont start the car (no priming, no spark, etc..) and megatune doesnt see it either?!
When i first powered it up I could here the ICV pulsing, turned it off to start my laptop up, plugged it in, turned it back on, and now nothing!!
There is power and a good earth there, and the middle LED flickers on when i power up like it normaly does, but thats all I get?!
I did not touch anything else when I had it apart and it soldered back on with no complications so I dont no whats happened.

Probably going back to be repaired I think is the only answer now!

 

glad the wire worked, but not so happy that the ecu isn't doing it's job.
i had a problem where mine would do nothing after running, then next day stuck the map on again and it worked, very strange.

 

Yeah it annoying! Megatune doesnt see the ECU anymore either so something has happened!

 

i'd send it back mate, although it's an inconvenience, it should be right when it comes back and you can move forwards.
i sent mine back twice, just little faults that didn't show up on the stim.

 

Looks like i'm going to have to go that way, where did you buy yours from?

This is what I get when I try to re-flash the eprom, as I was told to do by Phil from ExtraEfi (where I bought it from).



So it can see the ECU is there but something is wrong.