who ? where ? and how much please guys ???


and at what power level are 6 longs studs nessacary ,


beef

 

Beefy when i got mine done,i had to take it to a guy in blackpool as i couldnt find any body up by me to do it,

cheeRS stu

 

Get martoon to sort it for you beef, working in brum at the moment arnt you pal

 

Martin, Karl @ NMS Beef, they,ll both sort you out....

 

that i am mate ,

anyone know the going rate ??

 

http://reyland.co.uk/Details.asp?ProductID=155

cant remember what i payed but prob around 200 for machine work

 

sweet , cheers fella ,

them studs aint 41 quid each are they

 

No Ł41.13

edit: actualy no cheaper than that, those prices are still @ 17.5%

 

nms don't do it as he doesn't belive in them

 

nms build engines over 500bhp without using them, don't they?

 

This is very true Karl don't like long studding only decides to do it when the block is cracked round the stud holes

I personally can agree with Karl due to the fact even with just ARP stud and nut kits these can crack a block (it happened to me) just cos a stud is deeper how can it have a bigger clamping pressure on the head?? The only way the acheive this would to have a bigger diameter washer under the bolt or a bigger threaded bolt,As both of these are not possible due to size and design of head and block

Just remember that a K series rover lump uses long thro bolts which have no extra clamping forces as shown in how many gaskets they distroy

Also theres the stresses and heat involed too which is why the arp's imo are no good as there too hard and don't expand and contract at the same rate as the block hence cracking 205 blocks

will post a pic later of my cracked block

Paul

 

what head bolts does karl NMS use then?

mate of mine ran over 450 horse plus nitrous for 3 years on a 205 block with ARP stud and nut kit

 

genuine ford stretch bolts

 

The point of long studs is NOT to inrease clamping force, but to spread the load of the force on the headbolts/stud and block. All I am going to say is why have 99% of engine builders reccomended them since they have become avaliable.

Anthing over 400BHP IMHO is worth long studding, why take the risk?

 

arrgghh lol why does this always happen lol ,


ok i have a +5 over 200 block , i also have a arp stud n nut kit ,


and now i have a really gud price on 6 long studs by a trusted compmany


what to do ???

 

save your money and use standard stretch bolts

 

Save your block and use long studs!! It really is that simple.

Beef did you get my PM?

 

i took it to reyland in end and he did mine! and i think iirc he advised me to long stud over 350bhp

 

long stud it beefy, then there is no strip down ever required if you choose to increase spec etc

 

yes mate get it done,

and i beleive 10 is only used over 500bhp?

 

i think water pump requires modifications for 10? is that so?

 

buy mine all ready done lol

 

im not sure on that mate, ill have a look later

 

Yes

Here is a pic of my block 205 with ARP stud and nut kit



That crack is right through the boss shame as this is the original block for my car which has clocked up 110k just taken apart due to a weeping gasket around no 4
even got new stretch bolts to replace aswell due to knowing that these stud kits have this problem

The choice is yours

Paul

 

Thats wht i got the arp taken out of mine and stud and nut was luck didnt break my one

 

as said above arp stud kit is pointless..the 200 block is a thicker wall for a reason..to long stud it..as said 400bhp or more should be done imo

 

water pump mods are needed for 10, we use 10 at anything over 500-540 ish tbh

6 is what you want beef, safe for your power

 

my engine was running an rs500 t4 at 2.2 bar 472 bhp on standard head bolts wrc gasket and was perfect and it saw above gps 170 alot of times and didnt bat an eyelid

up to 500 hp its a waste of money imo.

 

Prob because yours is a 205/500 block which again is a different casting so yes you was lucky as its alway nice to keep a 500 as it should be

Paul