as above i have bought blacks and got t34 63 going to get bd14 but just had valve cut outs put in standard comp pistons but now starting to worry about reliability should i just go greens and 350 bhp

 

std comp will do......but i'd fuck the cam off......keep std cams....

 

stick with standard cams and standard compression, but valve cut outs are always a good idea even on standard cams & compresions.

most standard cossies have had piston to valve contact, so valve cuts out are a good idea

t34.63 with blacks and other supporting mods should see a very strong 380hp.

just make sure all the basic things are done right, eg. rewired fuel pump for a direct feed from battery, 30 min job, cheap and essential!

 

standard comp mate, just built my saff engine to std comp, it rocks

 

as above both know what they are on about

 

mines low comp,and goes well

 

what he said

 

yours is a slightly bigger spec

 

decide whos chip you will use (unless going for "live" map) and speek to them and find what compression ratio they use before you do anything else imo

jim

 

Mines std compand and the last time it wa on the dyno it made 397.8bhp and 400lbft of torque with std cams, 4x4 inlet 55lbs siemens, Tb34.63 +all the std bits ie 3 bar, 044 fuel pump, 500 style cooler etc etc

 

Always try to keep std or high, get vastly better off boost ability that way, so long as it doesn't limit the boost you want to run.
Mine's going up slightly at rebuild time.
tabetha

 

My car was dyno'd last time at 450bhp on a completely standard bottom end and has been totally reliable.

 

This is the best advice.

The spark advance could be all wrong for your CR and that could end in tears.

 

What would be the advantage of standard cams?

I have spoke to will at msd and he said to use this spec.

Its going in a rwd escos so should go ok

 

std cams are FREE...............and are perfectly capeable of 400bhp.......std exhaust will do for quite a bit more.......

 

bd14 inlet, std ex, is a nice combo, and does work quite well on the t34.63 with the correct software.

it will make more power than with the std cam, but you will lose a bit of torque on the way there, so it all comes down to what you want to do with it tbh, if its a track car then drivability isnt so much of an issue, and i would opt for the power in that instance

if running a bd14, it may be worth thinking about double springs for added safety,

and it also depends what software and map you intend to run, ie closed loop off the shelf can be more tricky to get right with a funky cam, although imo the exhaust cam would be more critical here

the mind boggles than people can advise on whats best for you, and yet nobody has asked what you actually want from the car or what you intend to do with it

 

Was waiting for that did mean other than there free.

Its going to be just a road car so would have the drivability over a few fiqures

 

Folks,

Slighlty off topic..

How much does a PROPER Stage 3 set-up cost these days??

I.E 500 Cooler/ T.34/ Live Map/ -3/ 3bar/ Seimens..etc etc.

Already have Pump and new AP clutch...

Would you need 3kish to do it???

I know i should know, but it,s been a while since i,ve spent on a cossie..

 

brand new parts or 2nd hand?

 

rough......cooler £350-400....-31/-34 £70.......3bar £60.....seimens under £200 (easy) but plenty peole will rob u.......live map...£500ish........new turbo...???

 

as a guide, most of mine was 2nd hand

pace 500 cooler £150
t34.55 £375
siemens £150 (brand new, imported from the US, cheaper )
3 map bar £35
MSD chip (not live map) £300 ish
-31 actuator £30

set it up myself, 2 bar of boost, estimate 360-370hp

will be alot more expense to have a live map & new turbo, that's would be best part of £1300 alone

stage 3 doesnt necessary need a live map; but as ever its the best option.

 

Cheers fellas, appreciate that...

It,d be new parts tbh i think, i,m a fussy twat like that..

So a 3k budget should surfice then??

My other option which i,m looking into is the NMS Gunship which i,ve heard is a cracking upgrade AND would cost alot less too..

 

fuck that......spend the cash.........

 

Pete, you know me, i usually do.....

 

I run ported head, standard cams and pistons with L8, 403, T38 set-up and seems to pull well right to 30spi

 

Why do you guys still run low compression........ does it cause you that much of an issue with power limitations vs going high compression?

I see that a number of Scoob and EVO tuners are now switching to high compression.

I have just changed (Scoob) to high compression and the engine is awesome.... still managing 2bar boost on a straight VPower, but have much better response and more power at less boost and ignition.

Using a GT30 core we managed 485bhp at the fly on low boost of 1.45bar

and

486bhp at the HUBS on high boost of 1.8bar.

High compression is good.

 

I,m pretty confident you,ll be pushing over 400 with that set-up Mr Brammer...

 

do you find it makes them poor on fuel economy? or not much different?

just thinking of road car use really

 

jtechsaff,
Not at all mate.... I have seen no difference in fuel economy BUT a massive difference in response and sharpness.

 

there does seem to be alot of people going that way

 

There can be caveats on block integrity, as regards to how much you can push them..... but you run a cast iron Cossie block, so I can't see you having problems with your liners bursting, unlike us Subaru owners!