Sump removal and refit
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I am about to add an improved baffle to my 2WD sump. I bought the gasket set that people here recommended:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/High-Performan...mZ310093854214
Will I need to use liquid gasket or anything else to ensure I get a good seal? If so, does anybody have suggestions for the best product to use and where it typically leaks? I guess prep is important - clean surfaces.
Thanks,
Charlie
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/High-Performan...mZ310093854214
Will I need to use liquid gasket or anything else to ensure I get a good seal? If so, does anybody have suggestions for the best product to use and where it typically leaks? I guess prep is important - clean surfaces.
Thanks,
Charlie
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Yeah, I have a replacement baffle from Burton Power that I plan to install. Car is in the air, front TCAs and ARB are off. Next is front subframe, then sump, then add baffle and gasket then refit.
Tedious job but it has to be done.
Charlie
Tedious job but it has to be done.
Charlie
In theory the gaskets should be oiltight, practice is different though.
I have always used LOCTITE 5900 or 5910 flange sealant, pricey but good.
I have used this on all manner of gaskets, never once had a leak, and have used this on std sump gaskets and also with NO gasket at all, still no leaks.
I once had to take off a sump that had been put on with this, some weeks earlier and spent 1 hour straightening the sump flange as it had to be levered off, it di not leak a drop however, used for temp seals on fuel tanks stat housings etc etc, doesn't fully harden ever, excess can simply be pulled off when cured, which is 5 minutes with 5910 or around 1 hour with 5900.
I have also used it to stick down carpet in house, on gutters, hosepipes, trim on cars.
tabetha
I have always used LOCTITE 5900 or 5910 flange sealant, pricey but good.
I have used this on all manner of gaskets, never once had a leak, and have used this on std sump gaskets and also with NO gasket at all, still no leaks.
I once had to take off a sump that had been put on with this, some weeks earlier and spent 1 hour straightening the sump flange as it had to be levered off, it di not leak a drop however, used for temp seals on fuel tanks stat housings etc etc, doesn't fully harden ever, excess can simply be pulled off when cured, which is 5 minutes with 5910 or around 1 hour with 5900.
I have also used it to stick down carpet in house, on gutters, hosepipes, trim on cars.
tabetha
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OK. Thanks for the info. I was planning to remove and refit the sump in situ. I've just been under the car and spotted that the engine mounts to the crossmember. Is it possible to support the engine while I take out the crossmember and rack?
Is it possible to take the sump off with the engine in the car?
Thanks,
Charlie
Is it possible to take the sump off with the engine in the car?
Thanks,
Charlie
Yes and yes, in that order!!
You can use a brace across the tops of the inner edges of the front wings to support engine, or hoist etc.
I would use a bit of loccy to stick the half moons in position so they don't budge as you lift sump up when putting on.
tabetha
You can use a brace across the tops of the inner edges of the front wings to support engine, or hoist etc.
I would use a bit of loccy to stick the half moons in position so they don't budge as you lift sump up when putting on.
tabetha
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Thanks Tabetha.
Charlie
Ford supply a rather naff looking crossmember to their dealerships to support the engine - it rests on the lips in the wings!!!! I may do a similar job myself this winter - been advised to block the gearbox up too - just to be sure! Is this the 2wd baffle - they looked the nuts
)
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