right i need to time up my zetec, 2.0 blacktop, tried it the manual way using made up tools, got the cam timing right but the TDC of the block may not be 100%.....
the engine doesnt run half as well as it used to!!!! doesnt seem right at all!.

so....



i have this tooooool with two threaded bar thingys and the block that goes behind the cam.
but before i go off and have a crack at doing the timing, which bit goes where???
i know one pin goes in to lock the bottom end at TDC but what does the other pin do??

and which goes where????

and.... do i have to loosen the pulleys on the cam, and are these LEFT HAND THREADS as opposed to normal threads to loosen them???


plz help i want my zetec back up to power its definatley the timing btw!! compression test comes up perfect!!!

 

I think you do yes, especially if the timing is suspected to be out, I'm not certain but lock the cams with the flat bar, loosen pulleys, set TDC and lock everything back up iirc.

Not done one for a while so dont take that as gospel

 

black top 2.0 only use the timing bar in the back of the cam's not the two pin's they are for the 1.25 and 1.4, you do loosen off the cam pulleys and there are normal tread left to loosen. and as far as i remember to time up the crank there are 2 makes on the aux bottom pulley 1 that point's straight down and one at 5 O'clock that lines up to a moulding on the sump. make sure you tention the belt before you do the cam pulleys up so the belt is tight between all pulleys.

 

Sounds about right from memory.

I used a large spanner on the flats on the cams to take some of the strain when you tighten the cam pulleys up, otherwise all the pressure is on the locking bar at in the end of the cams. Did help that there was two of us doing the job mind!

 

i have a RWD sump... therefore no timing marks on the sump to line up against!!!!!

how do i set the bottom end at absolout TDC cause my "rough guess using a screwdriver thru the sparkplug hole" technique hasnt got it right twice!

and i know the cam thing, thats easy, i used a 5mm masonry drill bit, .
but i NEEED the bottom end to be at propper TDC rather than guesswork, cause i dont wanna go thru the hassle of doing it again (bearing in mind i have to remove the strut brace by jacking up the car!!!) to get it wrong again!

 

if its a blacktop, then there's a plug you remove next to the crank sensor, to u have 2 pins there in your timing set, you only need 1 of them, Find the plug in the block, remove it remove your cam cover, turn the engine over by hand till the cam bar can be fitted, remove it again and turn the crank 1/8th of a turn anti clockwise, then screw the timing pin into the block turn the crank ckockwise till you feel it stop agains the pin, then see if you can re insert the locking bar into the cams

 

As above using the flat bar, or 5mm rod in back of cams, and the black longer pin, turn engine to roughly tdc, then back a bit, then put pin in, turn slowly with plugs out clockwise and you will hear and feel the flat edge of the crank(machined just foir this) contact the pin.
This is certainly how I do it on silver tops, thought the black was same in this respect.
tabetha

 

dont forget to slacken the cam pulleys, ive seen so many people not do this, and the belt end up slack between the two pulleys.

the cam pulleys have no woodruff key, they just spin freely when the center bolt is slackened off...time it up, tension the belt, and tighten the pulleys up last.

there is a funky tool for holding the pulleys to undo them aswell that i have

 

the markings are on the oil pump not the sump if i remember right

 

plug near crank position sensor?
as in the black plug under the exhaust manifold and near the block breather??

and are the cam pulleys a normal thread or a backwards thread??

Sorry thanx for the info, helps loads!!

 

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