Good & cheap diff for 2WD Rallye Car
Hi mates,
i drive a Sapphire 2WD Rallyecar since some years.
Now im searching for update for my diff., so 170 mph are not needet in a rallye, and the LSD of 25% at standart diff is not really a much.
Im still drive the stock rear beam and axels, whats can be a good optional.
I read some about grapper diffs etc. but dont know anything about them and where i can get them.
i drive a Sapphire 2WD Rallyecar since some years.
Now im searching for update for my diff., so 170 mph are not needet in a rallye, and the LSD of 25% at standart diff is not really a much.
Im still drive the stock rear beam and axels, whats can be a good optional.
I read some about grapper diffs etc. but dont know anything about them and where i can get them.
Its a cross between an ATS and a salisbury conventional slipper.
It is supossed to run free on the over-run (when not being driven)
and lock and work like a plate diff when under power.
http://www.racecar.co.uk/gripper/
It is supossed to run free on the over-run (when not being driven)
and lock and work like a plate diff when under power.
http://www.racecar.co.uk/gripper/
the gripper unit is a fully plated LSD, nothing like an ATB at all, various ramp angles available as well, ive ran one for years in my rally car - works great, you can just buy the diff unit itself if you want to fit it to your own crwonwheel and pinion.
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Im still drive the stock rear beam and axels, whats can be a good optional.
The weak point in the stock diff is the spider gear, of which there are two. I know with the Eaton LSD the spider gears are designed with a backing plate that greatly improves the strength, and they are forged and shot-peened. The point? With an aftermarket diff you'll probably support much more torque than stock. If you install a Quaife the spider gears are eliminated altogether and the next weak point becomes the ring and pinion, which members of this board seem to have no trouble with until they're up to ~500hp. Not many people get into that territory.
One option is the Eaton plated LSD, which runs about £275.
The weak point in the stock diff is the spider gear, of which there are two. I know with the Eaton LSD the spider gears are designed with a backing plate that greatly improves the strength, and they are forged and shot-peened. The point? With an aftermarket diff you'll probably support much more torque than stock. If you install a Quaife the spider gears are eliminated altogether and the next weak point becomes the ring and pinion, which members of this board seem to have no trouble with until they're up to ~500hp. Not many people get into that territory.
The weak point in the stock diff is the spider gear, of which there are two. I know with the Eaton LSD the spider gears are designed with a backing plate that greatly improves the strength, and they are forged and shot-peened. The point? With an aftermarket diff you'll probably support much more torque than stock. If you install a Quaife the spider gears are eliminated altogether and the next weak point becomes the ring and pinion, which members of this board seem to have no trouble with until they're up to ~500hp. Not many people get into that territory.
.i believe that the only solution is 9'' diff because i have tried any cheap
solution on my rally car and every time the same thing ..broken cwp
or cut like bread the half shafts inside diff.my car has 460 hp!
Yeah, regardless of the amount of power you have, if you are performing in a motorsport that is leading to broken ring & pinion gears, then by definition you must move away from the 7.5" differential. You can stick an unbreakable diff in the 7.5" axle, but that obviously won't affect the strength of the ring & pinion or the halfshafts. Fortunately for the vast majority of XR & Cossie owners the 7.5" axle is plenty strong once the differential inside is upgraded.
to be honest the Ford Motorsport 9" unit is the way to go if you can afford it
either uprated VC (600Nm tarmac)or a xtrac plated unit
saying that i have a 450+ 3dr cos with a 7.5" gripper plated diff and i have never broke it , as mark k knows i have had the diff for years the only thing i have done was to have a new set of plates , the plates lasted me about 5yrs that was constant road use and track day abuse
the gripper is a great unit for what your paying it really is value for money and it works and works well
i agree that no matter what 7.5 unit you have either a ATB or Plated diff the weak point will always be the crown wheel and pinion
same goes for the normal standard VC lsd the weak point is mainly the planet gears
atleast the plated diff or the ATB unit does away with these planet gears so there is one less thing to worry about
im lucky enough to own a 9" Xtrac plated unit for my escort cos , but i have never driven with it so i cant say how good or how bad it is
only thin i will say with the gripper you can have it set for what ever you like progressive or full on either way great value for money
cheers marco
either uprated VC (600Nm tarmac)or a xtrac plated unit
saying that i have a 450+ 3dr cos with a 7.5" gripper plated diff and i have never broke it , as mark k knows i have had the diff for years the only thing i have done was to have a new set of plates , the plates lasted me about 5yrs that was constant road use and track day abuse
the gripper is a great unit for what your paying it really is value for money and it works and works well
i agree that no matter what 7.5 unit you have either a ATB or Plated diff the weak point will always be the crown wheel and pinion
same goes for the normal standard VC lsd the weak point is mainly the planet gears
atleast the plated diff or the ATB unit does away with these planet gears so there is one less thing to worry about
im lucky enough to own a 9" Xtrac plated unit for my escort cos , but i have never driven with it so i cant say how good or how bad it is
only thin i will say with the gripper you can have it set for what ever you like progressive or full on either way great value for money
cheers marco
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