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rs cosworth 3 door guage showing engine hot after thrash

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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 09:09 PM
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Default rs cosworth 3 door guage showing engine hot after thrash

My engine after giving it a session gets very hot and all the fans are working etc. Soon as you slow down it cools off. I suspected head gasket and been driving it. So deceided to press on with building my new engine. This is all done now and i have fitted to the car with no worries after running it in i have been giving it the large one and its started to get hot again so i pulled up and stuck me head in the engine. Its got a new sensor although i have used the same thermostat and housing same turbo. the engine doesnt appear to be hot hot fans on but you would expect that after a session. Any ideas help!!!!!! I can think what its is new rad and all that .

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ian
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 10:58 PM
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One possible cause could be the coolant flowing through the turbo.

When your driving the car hard, the turbos getting red hot.

As the coolant gets pumped through the turbo, the coolant gets heated up and returned back into the cooling system.

This then causes the overall coolant temp to increase.

Fitting a turbo cooler would help with this.

I have the same issues with mine at the mo. I have got a turbo cooler to fit but havent had a chance to fit it yet so i cant tell you how much difference they make but certainly cant do any harm!!
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 04:20 AM
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I have a after turbo cooler and imo it made a good difference to the temps, evan when out on track the temp gauge rarely goes above the M on norm.
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 07:30 AM
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to be honest i'm not sure what the problem is?

My engine after giving it a session gets very hot and all the fans are working etc
all engines get hot after a thrash! and if you are running a standard rad/ fan switch its likely that the fans are on alot of the time when driving.

what does the temp gauge read?

this product may help you - https://passionford.com/forum/showth...ghlight=summer

unless the temp gauge is reading really high i cant see what the problem is
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 08:36 AM
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it goes up nearly too the red. I have fitted a new engine it also did it on the last one i did have a t3 it did it with that and now a t34. The only remaining items is the thermostat and housing the same and rad its a alloy pace one when i drained it alot of shit came out could the rad be blocked or thermostat failing!!! I also run a 500 cooler. Or dodgy temp sender maybe!!!!!. I havent put any antfreeze in it yet the garage said run it for a week they will drain it and then put it in. It seems to run a higher standard running temp than normal without it.

Cheers

ian
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 08:37 AM
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As said what problem is there, you burn more fuel, you create more heat, the fans come in, if it is not overheating etc then stop worrying.
I had a new 88C stat in mine(gen ford) and it still ran at 70C - 73C, I've now fitted a new(gen ford) one of 82C and it runs at 79C - 84C, hotter than the hotter stat!!.
I don't rely on the gauge, as all my sierras have been naughty with readings.
tabetha
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 08:49 AM
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Its a needle width of the red when you open the engine it doesnt seem that hot!!!!! As i say could it be the stat as i used this one before. I am always nervous when theyre right up in the red!!! It didnt boil over and shortly after i took the header cap off and it didnt boil over. Is it worth changing the sender!!! or stat or flushing the rad as it was real shit brown that come out of the rad. Fans are working but are they coming on too late maybe!!!!

Cheers

ian
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 09:00 AM
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Use some kind of engine coolant flush, or use your gardening hose and flush the OPOSITE direction than the engine usually flows. This may solve the "brown shit" problem
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 11:13 AM
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it could be a dodgy senderl change the sensor that fits into the exhaust/ turbo side of the head - they are about a £10

1/2 spanner, remove and have the new sensor in your hand ready to plug back in - as water will piss out. Do it when the engine is cold

also i wouldnt run a cossie just on water; get at least 50/50 split - water will just boil and evapourate!! - get that changed

personally i'd always put a new stat on any new engine to be on the safe side - i assume the stat opens?

i assume the pump was OK?
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 06:14 PM
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Obviously in the long term use a/freeze 50/50, but water will not just boil and evaporate in a sealed system, it is most likely a dodgy gauge, or sender.
Maybe to ease your mind check the actual temp with a infra red gun, say on the stat housing, just a few degrees rise can have a massive effect on the gauge reading, but water won't boil till well over 100C anyway, it would be a good idea just to run some Wynns rad flush stuff in the system for a few hundred miles,(not the 10 minute idle it says on bottle), this is what I do, it leavesd a congealed mess in the bottom of the expansion tank, which is all the crap it takes out, sometimes as much as 1/2 MUG full!!
It can then be washed out when you take the tank off, this will also free anything in the heater, as winter approaches!!
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 03:26 PM
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Cheers for all the help ta!!1
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