kent cams
hi all ,
bought a kent cam 34 sport r had it put in the car about 50 mile and its been knocking its ass off . took the rocker cover off to inspect it and its chipped on one off the lobes and worn on each of the lobes . took the car to an engineering firm and they have told me to send it back as ther could off been a problem with it . as any body had this problem . and as anybody had to return a cam to kent and how did you get on .
cheers daz
bought a kent cam 34 sport r had it put in the car about 50 mile and its been knocking its ass off . took the rocker cover off to inspect it and its chipped on one off the lobes and worn on each of the lobes . took the car to an engineering firm and they have told me to send it back as ther could off been a problem with it . as any body had this problem . and as anybody had to return a cam to kent and how did you get on .
cheers daz
Last edited by dazrs; Aug 10, 2008 at 06:53 PM.
I understand that there has been numerous issues with kent cams and poor quality of late, resulting in similar problems as yourself.
Newman cams seem to be about the best, no problems with mine or any others
Newman cams seem to be about the best, no problems with mine or any others
once started tick over for a few mins then up to 1500 rpm for 2 mins then idle for 2 mins then up to 1700 rpm for to mins then back to idle and so on . i was told this the best way by an engineering firm who rebuild top end s , does this sound right ?
cheers
cheers
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I fell out with Kent over this about 3 or 4 years ago. It's been going on ages and I have been battering on out it on here for ages, but still people keep buying them.
The worst thing you can do is to let the car idle for the first 20 mins of its running time. 2500-3000rpm is what it needs. If you must drop the revs (for example if the car starts to overheat), turn it off. Best bet is to drive it whilst running the cam in, if you can do so safely, but still don't let the revs drop and try not to rev it much harder.
That said, even a miracle can't help Kent.
The worst thing you can do is to let the car idle for the first 20 mins of its running time. 2500-3000rpm is what it needs. If you must drop the revs (for example if the car starts to overheat), turn it off. Best bet is to drive it whilst running the cam in, if you can do so safely, but still don't let the revs drop and try not to rev it much harder.
That said, even a miracle can't help Kent.
Kent will ask you if you ran it in properly, if you say what you said above they will say "goodbye".
I have only seen maybe once instance of a Kent cam prematurely wearing when it's been run-in correctly and had good oil pressure.
Your running-in process you detail above is 99% likely to be the cause of your cam failure.
I have only seen maybe once instance of a Kent cam prematurely wearing when it's been run-in correctly and had good oil pressure.
Your running-in process you detail above is 99% likely to be the cause of your cam failure.
get in touch with kent, the sam happened to me, one of the followers failed and got lodged in the chamber causing it to wear thr exhaust lobe completely. Kent sent me a new one out in the post within 2 weeks. If they give you any shit put a post up on this forum and we can group together to prove its a common fault. as for running in the cam, the purpose of this is aminly for the followers, they need to compress and fill with oil, I found that the best way is to do this when they are out, means they arnt dry once installed.
Hope this helps mate
p.s. I have onluy heard good things about newmans so that what im getting when funds permit!
Hope this helps mate
p.s. I have onluy heard good things about newmans so that what im getting when funds permit!
get in touch with kent, the sam happened to me, one of the followers failed and got lodged in the chamber causing it to wear thr exhaust lobe completely. Kent sent me a new one out in the post within 2 weeks. If they give you any shit put a post up on this forum and we can group together to prove its a common fault.
bin the kent and get the newman
kent and piper were havin issues in 2001 when i got my newman and still theres posts about them 7 year on
kent and piper shouldnt even be considered now as an cam choice for the rst's
kent and piper were havin issues in 2001 when i got my newman and still theres posts about them 7 year on
kent and piper shouldnt even be considered now as an cam choice for the rst's
thanks for comments , rang kent today they want me to send the cam back so took it out after work so it should be with them this week . had a better look at it and on one of the lobes its flat at the top one s chipped and all show wear . whats the best newman cam what doesnt run really lumpy
cheers daz
cheers daz
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no newman cams are not flavour of the month newman cams are sheer quality.. but in this case cam was not run in properly, my last kent cam cvh37 excellent profile lasted 76miles six lobes were completely worn.. and cam was run in properly i now run a newman phase four cam with single valve springs.. engine just loves to rev..
sean
sean
thanks for comments , rang kent today they want me to send the cam back so took it out after work so it should be with them this week . had a better look at it and on one of the lobes its flat at the top one s chipped and all show wear . whats the best newman cam what doesnt run really lumpy
cheers daz
cheers daz
Newman isn't an easy answer, you'll then have the solid followers to set up. If you get those wrong, that cam will be fucked too, so don't think Newman is the be-all-and-end-all.
Regarding which cam, Newman have one off-the-shelf CVH cam which will suit most RS Turbo's, so just go for that.
If you can afford to just throw it in the bin and move on then you surely have enough moeny to afford a better car
my point is that if you pay good money for a product and it fails, either fight to get your money back or an item that works, by sending it back you can either have a new boxed item which you can sell for a half decent price or you could try and get your money back to put towards a better option (newmans)
If you can afford to just throw it in the bin and move on then you surely have enough moeny to afford a better car
If you can afford to just throw it in the bin and move on then you surely have enough moeny to afford a better car
I got to a point where I got sick of fighting, took it on the chin and put it down to experience.
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take the advice what people are telling you
if you get a replacement sell it and get a newman cam, if you can not adjust solid lifters get a hydraulic profile from them
if you get a replacement sell it and get a newman cam, if you can not adjust solid lifters get a hydraulic profile from them
A friend of mine bought a kent cam kitand fitted it and run the cam in correctly for 20 mins. The cam lobes soon wore down. He sent it back to kent and they said that it was his fault and that he must of had a blocked oil way. So another kent cam kit was bought and the same running in prosess done. A few hundred miles later the same thing happened. But this time the lobe had worn down on a different part of the cam.
In both circumstances kent did not refund any money of offer another cam. In the end a standard profile cam kit was bought for £100 from a motor factors and all has been fine since. The lesson has now been learned after spending £ 500 on kent cams ! I will never recomend a kent to anybody.
In both circumstances kent did not refund any money of offer another cam. In the end a standard profile cam kit was bought for £100 from a motor factors and all has been fine since. The lesson has now been learned after spending £ 500 on kent cams ! I will never recomend a kent to anybody.
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