cosworths i love them but hate them at the same time!!! nealy every part on the car has been changed since i have had the thing and still problems

any way can any one help.......

my car keeps over heating i fill the water up and drive normally every thing stays fine but as soon as i put my foot down it over heats. i no that it keeps gettin air locks in it but i bleed it get the heaters warm etc take it out and the same happens again

has any one got any ideas what it could be??

i have had it comp tested and sniff tested but both are ok.

hope some one can help

thanks

 

do the fans come on?

 

they do once i bleed it before i put my foot down but once it has a air lock they dont and the radiator goes cold

 

i suspect its not the air lock; if the rad is cold it means the thermostat is not openeing to allow the water to go to the radiator. Hence why the car is overheating as the water is just cycling round the head

change the temp sensor on the exhaust side of the head as a matter of course, cheap and easy to do although i think the size is 1/2 inch spanner

i;d also get a rad switch which fits to the bottom of the rad, then check the wiring; quite common for the wiring to mess up on the back of the rad switch

 

Try doing it with the stat out, to start with and see if it still does it.
Your fans coming on shows the fan switch to be ok, what makes you THINK it is overheating ?
Is it pushing fluid out of the expansion tank etc, or are you going by the GAUGE alone ?
If it is losing water and boiling it could be something as simnple as a RAD CAP, it the sela is shot then it will boil, as water not then under pressure to raise boiling point.
tabetha

 

i have tryed witout the stat out still overheated
i go by the temp gauge and when i can see steam comeing out of the vent lol

i will have a look at the cap see if thats ok

 

check all jubilee clips on every water pipe for splits ,not tightened ,brittle etc as i had this problem on my r5 gt turbo
baffled me for months turned out the water pipes around the water pump had gone brittle enough to draw in air but not leak bizarrely lol......
so basically when water pump was working hard it was drawing loads of air in ,causing airlocks then overheating ffs lol
very similar sounding try it regards and it costs fook all too

one way of doing it would be to get a old header tank cap and modify it to fit a valve in then pressurize the water system until you find the weak spot /problem area

 

good idea thanks will try that when this stupid rain stops.

 

any more ideas please

i found a small leak on the rad so i have changed it an the stupid thing is still doin it. really starting to get to me now!!!!!!

 

buy a block test kit and check it, i had same problem on mine turned out on high boost the head gasket had gone from cylinder 1 to the water jacket thus making car boil up, wipped head off checked gasket, threw it away cleaned block face, check face of cylinder head fitted Group A gasket and more importantlt standard head bolts instead of the ARP stud & nut

 

whats one of them mate??

i have done a comp test they all was ok ish.

and i have done the test where you see if the liquid changes colour from blue to yellow if there is exhaust fumes in the heder tank think its called a sniff test. that was ok to

 

impeller on the water pump possibly damaged?

 

one of my mates just said that i said i didnt think so because when i first bleed it water comes out the return but he said could still be that so he gonna take it of in abit a check for me so fingers crosesed i find the prob

 

i had a similar problem and it turned out to be the water way through the turbo blocked so no water circulating properly. it went to 2 reputable garages who didnot find this.. i changed everything before hand for brand new too.. i bypassed the turbo and was perfect... garrett said they had a few t34s returned which had this problem..
maybe worth a look..

 

i will have a look at that now while my mate is takin the pump out dont think will be that tho because wil water flows out the return fine till i boot it

 

dont run a cossie without a stat.....

 

whys that mate???
i did that when it first overheated but still did it so brought a new one and put that in.

 

one of the cossies will not correctly flow coolant without it fitted
.....cant remember which though, i just never not run a stat.....

ask this in general discussion....

 

ok i asked....

its a problem on both, but worse on the 4x4...

 

I run my Pulsar with no stat and since having a new head gasket, its been fine temp wise!

Not to sure why it would be different in a cossie though?!

My fans come on to at about 80~90C , Not had a problem since!

 

completly different....its the cossie stat housing thats the issue...

 

Ah ok, I just seen your thread and replied too lol

Cheers

 

Just Had The Water Pump Out And Thats All Ok Im Going To Stop The Water Going Round Heater Matrix And See If That Works.
Im Sure Its Pulling Air In From Some Where As My Heaters Are Warm Then I Put My Foot Down Then They Go Cold And As Soon As They Do That My Temp Goes Right Up And Over Heats

 

.id look at head gasket, failing on boost, not using a cometic gasket are you ?

ive known a few heads to lift on boost, causing air to enter the coolant.....then off boost it seals again,so doesnt show on tests

 

no its a group a one i think whats up with the cometic ones???

 

whats up with the arp stud & nut kit i just spoke to wooford garage and they adveised me to get them as they are alot better than standard head bolts

 

no idea what the problem is but good luck getting it sorted matey

 

Same here - please don't break it! You can only enjoy driving them when they're in one piece! It'll all be worth it when you fix it...........

 

Rad stays cold you say?

Indicates 2 possible problems
1. airlock. Had that too, not a Cossie but a Pinto engine. All seemed fine, however when I turned the TB the level in the header tank suddenly rose to the fillerhole and the tempgauge suddenly rose all the way to the top. After some patience and squeezing the rad hoses we got the air out and the temp gauge settled just fine. Because of the airlock tha water never got to the thermostat.
2. Fubar thermostat. Does the Cossie also have a wax center? Check if it's still there or replace it. The wax can be flushed out so the thermostat doesn't open.

Good luck sorting it. :th:

 

pull the head of last night and it all looks fine no idea what to do next..


how important is it that water runs round the oil filter?? can i just bypass it??

 

put the head back on with new gaskit an new head bolts and still doing the same thing...

 

if i was you i would of not put the head back on till i had it presher tested its not a lot to have it done but it gives you pess of mind tono its ok . you did use a new head gasget