Need to have my arches trimmed right back to clear the wheels/tyres on the rear and to a lesser extent on the front. Trouble is we need to trim them back past the mounting screws that secure the spats to the actualy body arch lip. I presume the race cars had the same problem with running a similer tyre size and wheel to mine so how were their wheel arch spats attached to the body?? If we were just to simply bond them on then the only point where they could be bonded would be the very most outer lip of the spat as any further down and the gap between the spat and the body work is too great to use the likes of silkaflex etc.

Any ideas?

Cheers,
Stu.

 

cut the lip in 1 nich increments and fold it 180 degrees so it is facing away from the car, thenr re-rivet/secrew the kit on with new holes....so your taking the lip from facing inwards to outwards if you get me.

Hows the car coming on anyways matey...

You got a link to your resto thread you were doing a while back (think itwas rsoc)

Cheers
Dan

 

I used a dremal on mine while they were fitted to the car, took the plastic back so its level with the metal arch. You can work around the mounting poinnts and everything stays solid

I think the BTCC cars had the whole lot reworked and the metel taken right back.

 

Cheers for the replies you pair! But tbh, i dont think I explained myself very well.....I need to trim the wheel arch metal work back also...so there will be no lip to screw the spat to anyway. By the looks of it im going to have to enlargen the actual wheel arch by approx 1inch all the way around then bond the spat to the arch using a few plastic blocks to bridge the gap. Almost wish that I had skinny wheels like you now Lamb chops insted of my manly sized girth

 

im running 235 tyres on the back of my 500 and had to trim more than a inch off i bonded the arch trim back on with tiger seal and its been fine

 

Oh I see Stu.. Mine are 8.75J you cheeky git

Wouldnt it be a lot less hassle to go for thiner rear tyres? This is why I binned my 245's and got some 215 on the rear. I thnk 225's would be idea and still clear.

Have you seen the pics of Ryan's old shell? He had the whole area removed and a plate filling the hole, i think this was how it was done on the BTCC cars, i will fish a pic out if you like?

appart from that I have not seen the kit removed im not sure how they mount, PM Porkie as his arches are removed and the kits stuck on.

 

Im stuffed running 245's then, gonna have to lop off half a yard at this rate

Sorry Lamby...didnt realise you were running that wide The thing is 245 tyre's sit really nice on my rims, so I wanna keep them. Pics would be handy if they show detail of the arch. Personaly i'd quite happily cut it away as required and bond the bugger on but the chap at the bodyshop wants to 100% sure its not gonna look shite once done, which tbh is fair enuff as its gonna be his name I give if people ask who did the paint work.

 

lol just noticed you've edited your rim size...thought that sounded a tad wide for your tyre size! Im 9j on the rear

 

How wide are yours Stu? mine are 8.75 not 9.75 i got it wrong

Me and ryan have had our centres machined so we have a lower offset, Im not sure how much meat is on yours being 4 stud but could allways get yours done for you if you like?

 

hehe yes edit edit

 

Theres loads of depth on the stud holes to allow for machining (I had to buy extra long studs to be able to fit the troublesome bugger's) but im not sure if trimming down the centres would give me enough clearance as there aint a great deal of clearance between the wheel and coil over so I wouldnt be able to remove a great deal off the wheel.

 

tricky then Stu.. Dam wheels I hate F-ing around with them

 

Trouble is, and you know this, wheels make a car so they are worth fecking around with....at least I hope it'll be worth it

 

btcc raised the kit higher up the bodywork, and also rolled the arches.

you'll never get 245's on unless you do major metal and kit work, or have the car very high like johns

especially on 18's, 17's isnt too much of an issue if you get the right offset

Had major arch work on my old 3dr, but got 245's on there easy, could have got 265's on there.

 

I was gonna say I dont have issues on 245's..........but i have the correct offset and 17's

might even try 255's at some point with a bit of arch work HTH

 

mines fine with 10j and 265's

 

NMS Badboy^NUTTER^

pics or STFU!

 

 

awesome mate!

how much work needed to be done to your arches? As much as Ryan's ones?

are you using coilovers?

 

yeah john are pretty much the same as mine, no metal lip left and kit trimmed virtually to the edge, if done properly it can look factory.

 

ta Ryan,

any issues with the coilovers? i know using the standard struts and springs it isnt an issue

 

wasnt for me due to offset, same as everything really, if the offset is right you wont have any issues.

 

Cheers for the info! Once you'd rolled back your arch lip, how did you attach the spat to the rear 1/4?

 

This is how mine is sitting at present...monster truck style

 

Do you know the offset of your wheels mate?

 

Im sure Martin (500Labbatts) told me they were ET15 when I picked them up...altho that was two years ago now and ive visited the pub a few times since

 

my kit was bonded on.

 

With what Ryan do you know? Ive removed my front passenger side to tidy up some clue which was showing, I may attack my arch lip while im there

 

like tiger seal or something i think.

or stikaflex.

All do a very good job

 

Cheers matey, will do a google seach for some

 

Your local motorfactor should either stock it or be able to get it in for you that day lamby

 

A spoke to Twins about this on Porkies 3dr. Which have been trimmed right back and bonded on .

sikaflex, tiger seal and most other brands do the same job.
A got some tigerseal of the bay

 

Yeah its just, where to bond? As the kit doesnt fit up tight against the arch all the way round..theres a gap. Or did you pull you arch out to meet up with the spat as well ryan??

 

Just whack a big blob on lol. I used some stuff from Screwfix, far cheaper and just the same type of stuff

 

Yeah thats what i'd do chap...big blob and G clamp it over night...jobs a gud un. Trouble is my painter is worried it aint gonna look factory once done....great that ive found a dedicated and passionate painter etc but there aint exactly much on my cossie thats factory looking now

 

i had the kit extended

 

Ryan did you mean you had the actual arch lengthened? (that's what my bodyshop guy wants to do)

 

yes, i had about 1" put on all of them, which means the kit could be raised up by about 1cm over the arch but still looked factory.

Alot of work, but as everyone knows who saw my car said, they were shocked that it looked factory until they looked inside the arch and noticed the massive difference on clearence.

 

Hi, i'm busy collecting (new) parts to upgrade my trackday 3door.
I also like to upgrade to 17" wheels

8J's on the front with 235 rubber
and perhaphs 9 or 10J's at the rear up to 265 wide rubber?
(or i'll stick with 8J's all around (235's are widely available))

Besides the archwork, i should get my hands on ET15 rims front and
rear?

Like to hear your opinion about the offsets

cheers Rinus

 

A great thread guys, I am looking at modifying my arches and have the same problem with my panel guy wanting pictures to show what has to be done as he thinks it wont work...
Can you post some pics of the front and rear arches as they are being modified so we know what to do.
Thanks
Gavan